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Old 16th October 2014, 19:52   #11
Johnny2R
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Originally Posted by michael peters View Post
Thanks Steve. I will follow yours and Johnny's advice and try it with the MAF disconnected. As reply to Johnny, previous owner said he had replaced it but also mumbled about shopping around for the cheapest so maybe he fitted a duffer.
Yes, this is definitely a possibility. There are about a half a dozen threads on here at the moment related to MAF issues, and it's pretty clear that there are MAF sensors being sold which simply don't do the job properly for these cars. Fortunately it has recently become much cheaper (c. £75) to buy the right, Bosch, one, thanks to some shrewd detective work by some guys here, who identified that the MAF sensor being sold for the BMW 5 series contained the same part as the Rover 75 one, just in a different housing and at a considerably lower cost. Search the recent threads with 'MAF' in the title to get more info.
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Old 17th October 2014, 11:03   #12
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Originally Posted by Johnny2R View Post
Yes, should have mentioned disconnecting, easy test to see if it is the MAF, rather than buying a new one on spec. But it will be, I bet!
Tried it this morning with the MAF disconnected, huge improvement, many thanks.
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Old 17th October 2014, 11:08   #13
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Originally Posted by Steven.walsh View Post
Definitely the MAF sensor, (Mass Airflow Sensor).
Quick fix to 100% prove is to simply disconnect and your car will be transformed.
Some on here leave them disconnected, no detriment to the car that I know of, excepting prob wont get optimum power and fuel economy.
Then in slow time you can work out whether to replace with another Bosch MAF, mixed reports on here how long they last, I went for the RonBox Synergy II with piefberg MAF, gives extra power and better fuel economy for about same money.
Sure people will soon comment on other options as have seen quite a few of late.
To disconnect MAF remove big engine cover first one with BMW embossed on it.
Then remove remaining cover, the one the oil filler cap is part of, and where air filter sits beneath.
The MAF sensor and plug just to left of filler cap, you will need to mess with clips either side of black plug and the connector should pull free, stash connector safely somewhere in that area and have a drive, let us know how you get on.
Take care
Steve
Tried it this morning with the MAF disconnected and it was fine. Many thanks for your comprehensive reply.
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Old 17th October 2014, 13:16   #14
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Harry's right that this is not conclusive proof that the MAF is actually to blame. You could always test the output, by getting hold of an ODB2 reader such as this one, £7.98 on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ELM327...item3cc0168b68 - and using it with Torque Pro on an Android smartphone. The figures it should be producing are given in this thread: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=195871.

In your position, though, I'd be inclined to just buy the MAF sensor for £75 and if it doesn't solve your problem, sell it on here to someone, I'm sure someone would snap it up for a few quid under the going rate.
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Old 17th October 2014, 15:11   #15
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Originally Posted by Johnny2R View Post
Harry's right that this is not conclusive proof that the MAF is actually to blame. You could always test the output, by getting hold of an ODB2 reader such as this one, £7.98 on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-ELM327...item3cc0168b68 - and using it with Torque Pro on an Android smartphone. The figures it should be producing are given in this thread: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...d.php?t=195871.

In your position, though, I'd be inclined to just buy the MAF sensor for £75 and if it doesn't solve your problem, sell it on here to someone, I'm sure someone would snap it up for a few quid under the going rate.
Even that test is still not conclusive - you have to be sure everything else is as it should be on the induction side, before the test - filter OK, no leaks from the pipes, no EGR leaks and clean. Then finally the MAF test.
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Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 2nd July 2022, 04:54   #16
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hey, anyone knows why my cdt stumbles for a couple of seconds then surges forward when i hit the gas pedal, with engine warmed up, happens after i shut the engine and start it up again,, i got a bosch MAF.
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Old 2nd July 2022, 09:44   #17
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You could try unplugging the maf and see if it improves ,you say you fitted a Bosch maf was it new or secondhand.
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Old 2nd July 2022, 12:08   #18
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You could try unplugging the maf and see if it improves ,you say you fitted a Bosch maf was it new or secondhand.

And is it, was it the correct MAF and a genuine (expensive) Bosch MAF from a reputable source?



Unplugging it, it uses default settings, which should work fine. If it does, you have confirmed your MAF as the cause.
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http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...40#post1764540

Fix a poor handbrake; DIY ABS diagnostic unit; Loan of the spanner needed to change the CDT belts; free OBD diagnostics +MAF; Correct Bosch MAF cheap; DVB-T install in an ex-hi-line system; DD install with a HK amp; FBH servicing.

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Old 7th July 2022, 20:17   #19
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I think I have a similar problem. Except if I disconnect the MAF, the engine's twitching a lot on acceleration. Does anyone know what that might be? thank
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