Handbrake.

[Trev22]

Hi, just managed to pass the MOT but was advised of a handbrake in-balance where one side was 1.80 and the other was 1.50...The tester advised this would not make it through its next test...We changed all pads with new rear discs, and the rear were adjusted down to the max on fitting via the knurled wheel...However, the drivers side new disc was harder to get on than the passenger side....Question is, as there is no more adjustment available the wheel end, is this issue then a cable change, and is there a how to on it. Thanks as always...

[Heddy]

Adjusted down to the max? You should adjust the knurled nut to show little or no thread, (min) All this should be done with the handbrake slackened off using the nut beneath it. Adjust at the wheels then adjust the lever, can't see how the drums were tight to go over the shoes with everything set to minimum.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by Trev22

Hi, just managed to pass the MOT but was advised of a handbrake in-balance where one side was 1.80 and the other was 1.50...The tester advised this would not make it through its next test...We changed all pads with new rear discs, and the rear were adjusted down to the max on fitting via the knurled wheel...However, the drivers side new disc was harder to get on than the passenger side....Question is, as there is no more adjustment available the wheel end, is this issue then a cable change, and is there a how to on it. Thanks as always...

I don't know what those numbers mean. I thought they record a percentage or a force.

All that is required to pass the test on the handbrake is that it locks so I would forget those numbers and instead count how many clicks each side take till you can't turn the wheels anymore.

How many clicks can you get the lever up?

[macafee2]

I the handbrake uses shoes not pads? there have been a few threads about handbrake not working very well once new shoes and discs fitted. I do wonder if they need time to bed in, mine did.
I think the nut at the handbrake lever under the gaiter inside the car needs to be slackened off, then the adjusters at the wheels need to be set so there is the faintest of resistance when the wheel is turned and then the nut at the handbrake re set. if the handbrake compensator is shot then in time the nut at the handbrake will need adjusting.
macafee2

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by Trev22

Hi, just managed to pass the MOT but was advised of a handbrake in-balance where one side was 1.80 and the other was 1.50...The tester advised this would not make it through its next test...We changed all pads with new rear discs, and the rear were adjusted down to the max on fitting via the knurled wheel...However, the drivers side new disc was harder to get on than the passenger side....Question is, as there is no more adjustment available the wheel end, is this issue then a cable change, and is there a how to on it. Thanks as always...

Something not right there, about the procedure you used - a very confused story.

Please read my Handbrake how to which you will find by clicking the link in my sig below. You might also find my offer of a modified compensator useful, via the same link.

Those numbers suggest the hub adjustment was some way out and the compensator was working outside its range to compensate. I very much doubt you could possible reach the maximum range of adjustment, at the rear hubs, likely you mean the adjuster under the handbrake lever.

Your cables will no doubt be fine, but likely a modified compensator will fix it.

[David Lawrence]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Something not right there, about the procedure you used - a very confused story.

Please read my Handbrake how to which you will find by clicking the link in my sig below. You might also find my offer of a modified compensator useful, via the same link.

Those numbers suggest the hub adjustment was some way out and the compensator was working outside its range to compensate. I very much doubt you could possible reach the maximum range of adjustment, at the rear hubs, likely you mean the adjuster under the handbrake lever.

Your cables will no doubt be fine, but likely a modified compensator will fix it.

What are those numbers? I had my mot last week and got numbers like 290 and 280. Other times I've seen numbers like 29%

What would 1.5 be?

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by macafee2

I the handbrake uses shoes not pads? there have been a few threads about handbrake not working very well once new shoes and discs fitted. I do wonder if they need time to bed in, mine did.
I think the nut at the handbrake lever under the gaiter inside the car needs to be slackened off, then the adjusters at the wheels need to be set so there is the faintest of resistance when the wheel is turned and then the nut at the handbrake re set. if the handbrake compensator is shot then in time the nut at the handbrake will need adjusting.
macafee2

Spot on, apart from the faint resistance. I would describe the correct setting at the hub, as having a just a little drag. Difficult to define, but once the slack in the cables is taken up, with hand brake fully on at three clicks, with the handbrake off, you should be able to easily push the car on the level and not notice any drag.

[Trev22]

[QUOTE=HarryM1BYT;1795751]Something not right there, about the procedure you used - a very confused story.

Sorry, we fitted new rear discs, pads and shoes to the....Adjusted the wheel down so that the shoes were fully in to allow the new discs to go on, but as per reading on with the replies it does seem we did this wrong from the off? I will read your link and take another look...As for the numbers 1.8 & 1.5, this is word for word what the tester told me with regards to the in-balance....Thanks.

[MevagisseyMedic]

Hi Trev22,
How many clicks does your handbrake go up and what is the distance on your handbrake adjuster from the top of the nut to top of thread?
MM

[HarryM1BYT]

[QUOTE=Trev22;1796476]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Something not right there, about the procedure you used - a very confused story.

Sorry, we fitted new rear discs, pads and shoes to the....Adjusted the wheel down so that the shoes were fully in to allow the new discs to go on, but as per reading on with the replies it does seem we did this wrong from the off? I will read your link and take another look...As for the numbers 1.8 & 1.5, this is word for word what the tester told me with regards to the in-balance....Thanks.

I think those number need to be multiplied by 10, to turn them into a percentage, so they become 18% and 15%. The pass mark is 16% - so I think the tester has cut you a bit of slack, as it a 75 and we all know how poor the handbrakes are on this car, don't we

But there really is no need for it to be this pathetic....

As MM has said,
how many clicks,
how much thread is visible on the adjuster under the lever
and has the compensator been replaced with a modified one?