Diesel crankshaft pulley bolt

[Hantsdave]

Hi Guys,

I know this should be in the tech forum......no doubt it'll get moved, but I need a quick reply.

I'm replacing the torsional damper (pulley). I've tried an airgun, an impact hammer, plusgas, heat AND using the starter but the bolt is still stuck.

Having locked the flywheel with an adapted K series locking tool, I now have a 3/4" breaker bar + extension ready to give me a hernia.

I have seen it somewhere in the forums but PLEASE CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM THAT THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT ON THE DIESEL (M47R) 2001 IS A CONVENTIONAL RIGHT HANDED THREAD.

Thank you soooooo much.

David.

[peo]

Ive just had the same problem with mine i tried everything you have in the end i had to go to a garage but yes it is conventional thread just a word of warning dont put to much heat on the bolt as it transfers through the pully and weakens the rubber within the pully its happened to mine and now need a new bottom pully and keyway

[T-Cut]

I've yet to understand the logic behind crank pulley torque settings. Why do they have to be the tightest bolt on the entire car?

TC

[Paranoid Carlos]

Because if they aren't torqued up the damage around the engine bay is catastrophic, sorted out 2 failures when I was on the spanners it really would amaze, think both bills were over a £1500 thats without bodywork repairs which were new bonnet ,grill , lower panel, slam panel etc etc
If one came of and hit a passer by it doesn't bare thinking about I think thats where I learned about kinetic energy.

[Paranoid Carlos]

Originally Posted by Hantsdave

Hi Guys,

I know this should be in the tech forum......no doubt it'll get moved, but I need a quick reply.

I'm replacing the torsional damper (pulley). I've tried an airgun, an impact hammer, plusgas, heat AND using the starter but the bolt is still stuck.

Having locked the flywheel with an adapted K series locking tool, I now have a 3/4" breaker bar + extension ready to give me a hernia.

I have seen it somewhere in the forums but PLEASE CAN SOMEONE CONFIRM THAT THE CRANKSHAFT BOLT ON THE DIESEL (M47R) 2001 IS A CONVENTIONAL RIGHT HANDED THREAD.

Thank you soooooo much.

David.

When I have done them (not on 75's) without a BIIIIIIIG windy gun it's always took 3/4 drive and a piece of scaffolding

Sorry....... worth taking to a garage and getting them to waz it of and put it back on normal tight, then drive home very carefully

[Departed]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

I've yet to understand the logic behind crank pulley torque settings. Why do they have to be the tightest bolt on the entire car?

TC

Logic?

Logic?

When did logic start to be applied to anything, let alone cars?

Seriously though, I agree wholeheartedly with Carlos.

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Why do they have to be the tightest bolt on the entire car?

It was a silly question really. Something's got to be the tightest on the car doesn't it. What I actually meant was why so tight it's physically impossible to undo with any conventional and many unconventional tools? I can see the need for 100% security, but there are surely other ways of ensuring that? I suspect more personal injuries have been caused by trying to undo the pulley than have ever been caused by pullies coming off of their own accord.

TC

[Paranoid Carlos]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

It was a silly question really. Something's got to be the tightest on the car doesn't it. What I actually meant was why so tight it's physically impossible to undo with any conventional and many unconventional tools? I can see the need for 100% security, but there are surely other ways of ensuring that? I suspect more personal injuries have been caused by trying to undo the pulley than have ever been caused by pullies coming off of their own accord.

TC

Never thought of that , probably very correct. And I would add the reason the knuckles are smashed on my right hand (rover 416 cambelt change) hence my awareness of this subject

Think it's all to do with thread pitch!!!!