Rear spring mounts - broken spring removal

bluebottle47 · 20th April 2016, 08:57

Sorry if this duplicates, but the search function ain't working!!

I've got the common problem of broken rear springs, but can't manage to remove the broken three quarters-plus turn from the bottom spring mounting. The fragment is moving fine, but despite loads of soap etc for lube, I can't turn it enough to get it released, despite applying all the force I dare.

Any bright ideas/tricks?

chipsceola · 20th April 2016, 09:12

Cant help with how-to but have you tried the search function on this page?
much better than the simple search button that gets confused if you enter more than two words.

EastPete · 20th April 2016, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebottle47

Sorry if this duplicates, but the search function ain't working!!

I've got the common problem of broken rear springs, but can't manage to remove the broken three quarters-plus turn from the bottom spring mounting. The fragment is moving fine, but despite loads of soap etc for lube, I can't turn it enough to get it released, despite applying all the force I dare.

Any bright ideas/tricks?

Presumably you have got the lower rubber insulator with the 3/4 spring piece off the car (ie: undone the bayonet fixing from the upper arm). I find the springs do not turn in the rubber mount (well, not easily anyway), so I just used a large screwdriver and levered the spring off the rubber mount, levering the coil over the rubber 'lugs'. Similar technique for replacement- lever them on (I used some waxoyl as a lubricant- will also help rustproof the lower spring coil).

Pete

Jim Jamieson · 20th April 2016, 12:54

Have a look at my post under How to and follow chassis and tuning gear

It is titled "Full suspension overhaul illustrated"
Sorry I can't place a link using the iPad but hopefully it may help.

EastPete · 20th April 2016, 16:13

I think what I did when refitting the springs to the pads was to locate the end of the spring in the 'end stop' part of the rubber mount, under the rubber lug above that part of the pad, then just used brute force to force the opposing rubber lug into the bottom spring coil - with a bit of waxoyl sprayed onto the rubber and lower part of the spring, this helped things along.
Pete

bluebottle47 · 20th April 2016, 16:14

Thanks, all.

I read your suspension rebuild a while ago, Jim - very impressive! I just wish my job was going as smoothly as yours seemed to! And as an ex- owner of several SD1s (including a tweaked Vitesse) I just loved your Vitesse restoration too.

It all started with noises from a rear corner which proved to be a handbrake shoe steady which came adrift due to a corroded backplate. Then of course, I found rot in the upper suspension arm ... then the other upper arm ... then 2 broken springs. Everything has been a battle royal to dismantle - thank goodness for oxy acetylene! However, the rolling catch continues as the top pivot bolts won't come out of the subframe .... front undertray off ... exhaust off .... subframe off. Oh joy, oh rupture! Loadsa Waxoyl and colloidal copper going on with reassembly ....

Thanks for the advice, Pete. I was reluctant to lever away in case the spring insulator got damaged in the process - as far as I know, they aren't available any longer. Nice to know that's feasible - I'll try that with the second one! As an alternative, I've now solved the above problem by cutting through the spring with a die grinder and a carbide cutter - carefully, with plenty of water at frequent intervals to avoid cooking the rubber. Once the spring fragment is reduced to just a half turn, removal is easy. Mount the whole thing in a vice so that the rubber lip of the insulator is retracted out of harm's way. Pig of a job!

Thanks for the advice on searching, Chipsceola.

EastPete · 20th April 2016, 16:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by bluebottle47

Thanks, all.

Thanks for the advice, Pete. I was reluctant to lever away in case the spring insulator got damaged in the process - as far as I know, they aren't available any longer. Nice to know that's feasible - I'll try that with the second one! As an alternative, I've now solved the above problem by cutting through the spring with a die grinder and a carbide cutter - carefully, with plenty of water at frequent intervals to avoid cooking the rubber. Once the spring fragment is reduced to just a half turn, removal is easy. Mount the whole thing in a vice so that the rubber lip of the insulator is retracted out of harm's way. Pig of a job!

I also think the spring rubber isolators are not longer available. However, I found these were fairly sturdy and you would be hard pushed to damage or tear them, as long as they have not perished. Apply plenty of lubricant of some sort (washing up liquid, silicone grease or similar) and choose a good point to ease the wide-bladed screwdriver between the isolator and spring coil, and they should come off. Let us know how you get on with the second one.
Cheers

Pete

Jim Jamieson · 20th April 2016, 22:38

Thanks for reading my posts, glad it helped.

I'm a glutton for punishment as I'm doing the same thing again on my V6.
Yesterday I spent 5 hours just removing the two top suspension bolts on the outside.
After removing the entire sub frame I was dreading the inner bolts but surprisingly all four came out with ease.
I've now got the parts away for sand blasting before the rebuild with new springs and shocks.
I still have the Vitesse tucked away under its tailored cover in the garage alongside my Vanden Plas Princess 1300

20th April 2016, 08:57	#1
bluebottle47 Newbie Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur Tourer Join Date: May 2013 Location: Dumfries Posts: 13 Thanks: 5 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Rear spring mounts - broken spring removal Sorry if this duplicates, but the search function ain't working!! I've got the common problem of broken rear springs, but can't manage to remove the broken three quarters-plus turn from the bottom spring mounting. The fragment is moving fine, but despite loads of soap etc for lube, I can't turn it enough to get it released, despite applying all the force I dare. Any bright ideas/tricks?

20th April 2016, 09:12	#2
chipsceola This is my second home Jaguar XF 3.0D Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Southampton Posts: 4,364 Thanks: 119 Thanked 509 Times in 426 Posts	Cant help with how-to but have you tried the search function on this page? much better than the simple search button that gets confused if you enter more than two words. __________________ Chips

20th April 2016, 16:14	#6
bluebottle47 Newbie Rover 75 CDT Connoisseur Tourer Join Date: May 2013 Location: Dumfries Posts: 13 Thanks: 5 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Classic rolling catch! Thanks, all. I read your suspension rebuild a while ago, Jim - very impressive! I just wish my job was going as smoothly as yours seemed to! And as an ex- owner of several SD1s (including a tweaked Vitesse) I just loved your Vitesse restoration too. It all started with noises from a rear corner which proved to be a handbrake shoe steady which came adrift due to a corroded backplate. Then of course, I found rot in the upper suspension arm ... then the other upper arm ... then 2 broken springs. Everything has been a battle royal to dismantle - thank goodness for oxy acetylene! However, the rolling catch continues as the top pivot bolts won't come out of the subframe .... front undertray off ... exhaust off .... subframe off. Oh joy, oh rupture! Loadsa Waxoyl and colloidal copper going on with reassembly .... Thanks for the advice, Pete. I was reluctant to lever away in case the spring insulator got damaged in the process - as far as I know, they aren't available any longer. Nice to know that's feasible - I'll try that with the second one! As an alternative, I've now solved the above problem by cutting through the spring with a die grinder and a carbide cutter - carefully, with plenty of water at frequent intervals to avoid cooking the rubber. Once the spring fragment is reduced to just a half turn, removal is easy. Mount the whole thing in a vice so that the rubber lip of the insulator is retracted out of harm's way. Pig of a job! Thanks for the advice on searching, Chipsceola.

20th April 2016, 12:54	#4
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	Have a look at my post under How to and follow chassis and tuning gear It is titled "Full suspension overhaul illustrated" Sorry I can't place a link using the iPad but hopefully it may help.

20th April 2016, 16:13	#5
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	I think what I did when refitting the springs to the pads was to locate the end of the spring in the 'end stop' part of the rubber mount, under the rubber lug above that part of the pad, then just used brute force to force the opposing rubber lug into the bottom spring coil - with a bit of waxoyl sprayed onto the rubber and lower part of the spring, this helped things along. Pete

20th April 2016, 22:38	#8
Jim Jamieson This is my second home Rover less ! Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Tarbolton Posts: 3,442 Thanks: 393 Thanked 888 Times in 542 Posts	Thanks for reading my posts, glad it helped. I'm a glutton for punishment as I'm doing the same thing again on my V6. Yesterday I spent 5 hours just removing the two top suspension bolts on the outside. After removing the entire sub frame I was dreading the inner bolts but surprisingly all four came out with ease. I've now got the parts away for sand blasting before the rebuild with new springs and shocks. I still have the Vitesse tucked away under its tailored cover in the garage alongside my Vanden Plas Princess 1300