Electric Window Upgrade

castlework · 18th October 2009, 15:51

I have a 2000 2L CDT. Having read various articles here about upgrades to standard equipment, I decided to hae a go at fitting electric windows to the rear of my car. I have (I think) got all the parts, mainly from the same breaker off the dreaded "flee bay", and all seemingly form the same donor car. A 2001 1.8 Connie.
I decied to test fit the BCU first, not wanting to totally dismantle the car and find it doesn't work. The passenger window works as it should, but the drivers window will go down Ok (in stages or one shot) but will only come up in half inch steps! Any ideas as to why this may be?

thanks

Martin

Raistlin · 18th October 2009, 15:59

The switchpacks are notorious for failure of the switches owing to dirt or other contaminant.

I think I'd take the switchpack apart and clean up the contacts first.

castlework · 18th October 2009, 17:58

Quote:

Originally Posted by Raistlin

The switchpacks are notorious for failure of the switches owing to dirt or other contaminant.

I think I'd take the switchpack apart and clean up the contacts first.

Paul, thanks for the quick reply, and your suggestion is worth a try. But the same thing happens whichever switch pack I use. (My original two window version, or the four window one I got), put my original (white) BCU back in and both switch packs work fine. Could it be anything to do withthe BCU looking for a non existant anti trap device? Replacement BCU is from a Connie!

Martin

stocktake · 18th October 2009, 18:04

was just going to suggest the antitrap device, as far as I know there is a wire in the drivers door that needs to be connected. Greeners knows a little more IIRC

Raistlin · 18th October 2009, 18:17

OK

Anti-trap is probably the next consideration, as Dave says

castlework · 18th October 2009, 18:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

was just going to suggest the antitrap device, as far as I know there is a wire in the drivers door that needs to be connected. Greeners knows a little more IIRC

thanks stocktake. I take it this wire is present on all build variants? Will check with Greeners, but any idea where this wire is terminated and to what I should be connecting it?

Raistlin · 18th October 2009, 18:46

C0660 pin 20 on the BCU is the driver's door anti-trap input. That may be a place to start

stocktake · 18th October 2009, 18:46

Originally Posted by castlework

thanks stocktake. I take it this wire is present on all build variants? Will check with Greeners, but any idea where this wire is terminated and to what I should be connecting it?

Afraid not, never had any dealings with it yet, (wish I hadn't said that

).

Strong possibility that is the issue though

CDTi · 18th October 2009, 18:57

Is the BCU coded to the car?

If not, any chance that this problem is because its not coded?

Greeners · 18th October 2009, 19:29

Not sure why my names in the frame..........

I'm pretty sure all cars have anti trap, but I can't check as I'm at work.

Next step is to put the original BCU back and get the front windows working as they were originally.

The BCU will need coding to add the rear windows, and you'll need a different BCU to the one fitted originally....

18th October 2009, 15:51	#1
castlework Regular poster Rover 75 CDT Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Lincs Posts: 48 Thanks: 11 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	Electric Window Upgrade I have a 2000 2L CDT. Having read various articles here about upgrades to standard equipment, I decided to hae a go at fitting electric windows to the rear of my car. I have (I think) got all the parts, mainly from the same breaker off the dreaded "flee bay", and all seemingly form the same donor car. A 2001 1.8 Connie. I decied to test fit the BCU first, not wanting to totally dismantle the car and find it doesn't work. The passenger window works as it should, but the drivers window will go down Ok (in stages or one shot) but will only come up in half inch steps! Any ideas as to why this may be? thanks Martin

18th October 2009, 18:04	#4
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	was just going to suggest the antitrap device, as far as I know there is a wire in the drivers door that needs to be connected. Greeners knows a little more IIRC __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

18th October 2009, 18:46	#8
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,587 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	Originally Posted by castlework thanks stocktake. I take it this wire is present on all build variants? Will check with Greeners, but any idea where this wire is terminated and to what I should be connecting it? Afraid not, never had any dealings with it yet, (wish I hadn't said that ). Strong possibility that is the issue though __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

18th October 2009, 18:57	#9
CDTi This is my second home No longer in the MGR club Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Tipperary Posts: 3,933 Thanks: 35 Thanked 51 Times in 35 Posts	Is the BCU coded to the car? If not, any chance that this problem is because its not coded? __________________ 'Tis better to be silent and be thought a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.

18th October 2009, 19:29	#10
Greeners Moderator MG-ZTT Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Ware, Herts Posts: 19,798 Thanks: 161 Thanked 1,249 Times in 1,036 Posts	Not sure why my names in the frame.......... I'm pretty sure all cars have anti trap, but I can't check as I'm at work. Next step is to put the original BCU back and get the front windows working as they were originally. The BCU will need coding to add the rear windows, and you'll need a different BCU to the one fitted originally.... __________________ *David* Impecunity is the mother of ingenuity Useful how to's for common problems Car Of The Month Jan 2014 [SatNav Power Down] [Coolant Level] [SatNav Repair] [Diesel Non Starting] [Paint Codes] [Rear Light Seals] [Reversing Light Switch] [Bleeding Brakes][Sunroof Drain] [Early ZT's][Instrument Pack Diagnostics][ATC Diagnostics]

18th October 2009, 15:59	#2
Raistlin Banned 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Auto Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 8,450 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	The switchpacks are notorious for failure of the switches owing to dirt or other contaminant. I think I'd take the switchpack apart and clean up the contacts first.

18th October 2009, 18:17	#5
Raistlin Banned 75 CDT Connoisseur SE Auto Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 8,450 Thanks: 0 Thanked 3 Times in 3 Posts	OK Anti-trap is probably the next consideration, as Dave says