Possible Cure for Dodgy Handbrake..

[T-Cut]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

- - - My best guess remains that the warning is in regards to the thread at the end of the cable jamming onto the nut if it is adjusted up too far. - - -

Do you mean you reach the end of the adjustment? I can't understand what damage it would cause. You'd have no more thread to take up the slack, but that would only make the brake inefficient.

Anyone know how much thread is there on the cable? Is it only 25mm plus the depth of the nut?

TC

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Do you mean you reach the end of the adjustment? I can't understand what damage it would cause. You'd have no more thread to take up the slack, but that would only make the brake inefficient.

Anyone know how much thread is there on the cable? Is it only 25mm plus the depth of the nut?

TC

I would hazard a guess at 50mm-55mm i am saying that because if you measure a new handbrake compensator from the bend to the tip of the top bar its's 55mm, and i have just measured my stretched compensator and the top bar is 50mm still from the bend but the gap is now 14mm instead of the 3mm it should, add the 25mm starting point to the stretched 14 = 39mm which would leave 16mm butby then the handbrake would be vertical at least on 12 plus notches if that is possible.

Note the gap Fig 1/2
1

2

In this fig 3 note top bar is 41mm
3

In this stretched one it's only 30mm Fig 4
4

Now in Fig 5 you see a stretched one which as been modified by Harry top bar length is again 41mm problem solved and for the price of a few stamps bargain of the year i would say.
5

All three together Fig 6
6

If i get chance i will put a tube spacer on Carls car with my stretched compensator and pull it as hard as i can once it as been adjusted to the 25mm and see what happens Arctic

My Stainless Steel compensator

[TimWD]

Thanks to all for the info and conclusions with the compensator. Intend to do the mod, however while the rear carpet cutting technique is quick I would prefer to not be so damaging and get to the compensator the hard way. Is there a 'How to' to remove all the components and to peel back the carpet etc to gain access to the compensator. I gather there is no need to remove the front seats.

Thanks in anticipation.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by TimWD

Thanks to all for the info and conclusions with the compensator. Intend to do the mod, however while the rear carpet cutting technique is quick I would prefer to not be so damaging and get to the compensator the hard way. Is there a 'How to' to remove all the components and to peel back the carpet etc to gain access to the compensator. I gather there is no need to remove the front seats.

Thanks in anticipation.

Someone made a suggestion that access could be gained from below. If you look at the photos, there is a rubber blanking plug below the compensator. Mention was also made of perhaps needing to remove the heat shield and maybe move the exhaust to one side. It sounded a bit like keyhole surgery, but might be possible - obviously Rover put a blanking plug there for a reason.

[Mike Noc]

Originally Posted by TimWD

Thanks to all for the info and conclusions with the compensator. Intend to do the mod, however while the rear carpet cutting technique is quick I would prefer to not be so damaging and get to the compensator the hard way. Is there a 'How to' to remove all the components and to peel back the carpet etc to gain access to the compensator. I gather there is no need to remove the front seats.

Thanks in anticipation.

A few years ago I changed the single cable from the compensator to the handbrake by just removing the centre armrest, storage box and pipework for the rear centre vents.

Can't remember if there was enough room to unclip the rear cables to the compensator without removing the centre consul though, but if you slacken the adjusters it might be do-able.

Mike

[TimWD]

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I want to avoid going under the car and disturbing the exhaust etc. What I was looking to do is the minimum strip out to get to the cover plate that covers the compenstor. I realise cutting the carpet is the easiest route, as mentioned I don't want to damage the carpet. Wondered if there is a 'How to' guide explaining the steps to remove all the necessary parts, I thought I read somewhere that the radio and centre consul come out first and mention of how the carpet is lifted behind the seats to get to the cover plate. Grateful if someone can point me to the information.

[Keith]

A really good thread troops

I didn't know you could even get at stupid thing from the top, I never even looked!

I have worked on them from below, ideally you have to drop the exhaust to get sufficient access via the rubber access panel, it is easy enough to get the compensator out but it is an absolute pita releasing the clips using the tool as described in the "manual" to remove the rear cables the top access method would be a much better diy (albeit time consuming) way if also changing the cables. I had never seen a "healthy" compensator so had not twigged the stupid thing was unwinding itself under use.



Ironically on my V8 the handbrake is well sorted but should I ever start to go down the ripping the handle out the floor and still not holding route then I will be welding the little ****** up.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by TimWD

Thanks guys for the suggestions, I want to avoid going under the car and disturbing the exhaust etc. What I was looking to do is the minimum strip out to get to the cover plate that covers the compenstor. I realise cutting the carpet is the easiest route, as mentioned I don't want to damage the carpet. Wondered if there is a 'How to' guide explaining the steps to remove all the necessary parts, I thought I read somewhere that the radio and centre consul come out first and mention of how the carpet is lifted behind the seats to get to the cover plate. Grateful if someone can point me to the information.

HI Tim
check out from post 21-27 Stocktake (Dave) taking his console out and carpet back
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...t=88200&page=3



The new way to fit compensator
http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...46&postcount=2

[Arctic]

Hi Matt1960 & Members.
I managed to source a stainless steel shackle with just enough inside length to fit into the compensator this could well be the best it is going to get i have been thinking along with other members, of every which way to do this from the one i bent round and had welded which is now on my car to this one i managed to put together today after taking my old one apart which and stretched by 14mm.

After some fettleling drilling and grinding i think i may have come up with the best this mod is going to get as far as stretching the compensator bar is involved replaced the U bend bar with a stainless steel one this could not bend or distort surely anyways here are the pics below.

First i ground down the pin and tapped it out then cut of the old flatened end of compensator bar so it could be removed then i set about grinding doen the one end of the shackle so it would fit through the compensator i had to drill the hole to help this also.

Note no welding on this compensator Fig 1
1

I center punched the pin then cross punched it making it tight once again Fig 2
2

The top of the new stainless steel rod the pin would need to be ground down Fig 3
3

In this photo you can see from above the 3mm gap which is needed as on a new compensator. Fig 4
4

Note how the end of the shackle as be ground down to fit through the rear part of the compensator which the two cables fit Fig 5
5

Now the top of the shackle pin as be ground down to make it nice and tidy also to fit under the fixing plate Fig 6
6

This last photo shows once the pin and been tightened i have punched the thread open so it can not work loose Fig 7
7

[danmayberry]

if rover was still on the go you'd get a job as a design engineer