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Old 7th May 2011, 17:48   #11
ASHEEN
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Hi All,

Many thanks,

My car is absolutely dry, there is no water in the carpets at all, front or rear, or any signs that there has ever been water.

I have spoken to a Rover75 breaker, and he suggested that the airbag light is a common problem on these, and its due to the sensor on the control unit which sits somewhere thear the steering wheel.

The low down power could be due (Im told) by either a blocked intercooler, which needs air blowing into it to clean it, or the turbo control unit, which contorls the boost. I know the turbo is working fine, as it boosts very well after 2k rpm, it seems a little lazy before that.

Any idea how much a turbo control unit is?

Thanks,
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Old 11th May 2011, 13:59   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by COLVERT View Post
Does sound like a poor electrical connection re. the maf sensor.
The symptoms are a dead sensor ( Low power from 0 to 2,000rpm. ) but it will not cure itself. If it comes and goes the sensor is OK. Just the signal from it to the ECU.
Any water in the plenum chamber ???????? Very important to stay dry.

The source of the problem was the Turbo Pressure Control Valve, its a solenoid, which was very definitely on its way out. Second hand from local breakers yard, diy fix, solved the problem instantly. Coupled with the new MAF, the car has normal power again. Many thanks,
Ahmed, AS MOTORS.
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Old 11th May 2011, 14:22   #13
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Thankyou for the feedback, quite often overlooked by owners who have been helped on here.
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Old 11th May 2011, 16:12   #14
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Default Rover 75 CDT No Power Low Down - Solution Found!

The problem with the CDT's if there is no power low down and its a struggle to get away especially at the roundabouts, and the MAF sensor and Turbo are fine, the the problem is the TURBO BOOST PRESSURE CONTROL VALVE or SOLENOID. This part new is £138.55 + VAT at the dealers, got one for £15.00 at my local Breakers yard, took the air induction pipe off, the top cover, then just below, left of where the intercooler pipes go into the engine, the solenoid sits, with two pipes going into it and an electricl connection.

Simple fit, taking all of 15 minutes, and hey presto, normal power resumed. the part is made by Pierburg, its a small cylyndrical part with two pipes at the top and electrical connector at the bottom.

So for all of you who suffer sudden loss of power on a CDT engined R75, this may be a solution to your problems.

Regards
Ahmed, AS Motors.
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Old 11th May 2011, 18:26   #15
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I think the part you refer to is the "Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) modulator" it is located in the exact location you speak of and has two vacuum pipes and an electrical connection. Curious that this cured your low down power problem, maybe there is someone here with more knowledge that may be able to explain why.
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Old 11th May 2011, 19:19   #16
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There is a "feature" of the EGR that I have noticed on some cars especially the 131 model which makes me think it relates to the 131 map

Sometimes the EGR does not close for about 30 seconds at low RPM and it should, the effect is exactly the same as the Maf failing

You can see they problem on T4 very easily.
I have an owner coming over on Friday and as I have seen this problem on his car a couple of years ago I suspect this is his current problem as well.

Also no one mentioned in this thread that the easiest way to eliminate the maf is simply to unplug it, if the maf is the thing causing the fault the car will immediately have more power.
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Old 11th May 2011, 19:28   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bramblp View Post
I think the part you refer to is the "Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) modulator" it is located in the exact location you speak of and has two vacuum pipes and an electrical connection. Curious that this cured your low down power problem, maybe there is someone here with more knowledge that may be able to explain why.
Confused, where is there an electrical connection on the EGR. ?
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Old 11th May 2011, 19:44   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spyder View Post
Confused, where is there an electrical connection on the EGR. ?
There isnt an electrical connector on the egr valve
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Old 11th May 2011, 19:49   #19
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Good, then I did not by-pass the wrong component
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Old 11th May 2011, 20:04   #20
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The electrical connection is on the EGR modulator which is located below the EGR, follow the vacuum hose from the EGR it is directly connected to the EGR modulator
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