Seized pinchbolt - an alternative solution - Page 2

James_Death · 11th May 2011, 00:15

Really surprised you got a grip....

The spring had been replaced before so could be reason for other bolt.

stevo snr · 11th May 2011, 08:12

I had loads of trouble getting mine out a few weeks ago. I didn't want to snap them so I ground off the protrusion and managed to get them out. If I get in the same situation again I'll drill them out, thread and all and put nuts and bolts in.

Zeb · 11th May 2011, 11:19

When you replace the nuts on these...be sure to use locking nuts....or, if spotted that you haven't, it'll be an MOT failure....

Jules · 11th May 2011, 18:29

Quote:

Originally Posted by T-Cut

Couldn't find Rolec, but is this the stuff?

RustBuster Dismantling Fluid: http://www.oilybits.com/la-co-rust-b.../prod_295.html

TC

Doesn't look like that TC
Mine's an aerosol

Company details:

Unit 3a, Broad Oak Farm
Redbrook Maelor, Whitchurch SY13 3AQ
01948 780 111

Jules · 11th May 2011, 18:34

Found it TC
http://www.rotecindustries.com/RUSTB...t/Product.html

The secret to it's effectiveness is "aggressive capillary action containing graphite which prevents further seizure during removal."

baggie9 · 11th May 2011, 18:56

I had one stud sized in a mgb once,a mechcanic recomended this britool extracter.Only used it once but got the stud out in a minute,lent it out many times allways done the job.Last time i lent out never got it back.
I paid about £10 a lot of money in the 70s.there's one on e-bay,worth buying for any mechanic.Link
http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=b...tracter&_rdc=1

Keith · 11th May 2011, 19:11

Last time I had this problem I did it situ
Thin angle grinder blade instead of the saw and a suitable hammer

Heat from a blow lamp does help as well.

It is one of those jobs like the ABS sensors or the rear light screws for the tourers were loosening them off and applying a bit of copper grease and re tightening every so often will one day pay dividends

RPWC · 11th May 2011, 19:38

I had the same trouble on my old Mondeo,but it snapped in situ, we had to cut it in the groove like you did then the top half came out easily by drillig,the remaining half had to be removed using a stud extractor.

Stuart1410 · 11th May 2011, 21:16

Zeb,
I think the nuts you are referencing are on the wishbone lower end ball joint to hub where there is also a pinch bolt / nut arrangement whereas the strut to hub is a bolt into threaded hub. Just done both wishbones and rear bushes (thanks Jules) sheared one bolt when re-tightening so replaced both! Wise to replace bolts and nuts on these and coat shanks with copper grease or similar.

Zeb · 11th May 2011, 21:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stuart1410

Zeb,
I think the nuts you are referencing are on the wishbone lower end ball joint to hub where there is also a pinch bolt / nut arrangement whereas the strut to hub is a bolt into threaded hub. Just done both wishbones and rear bushes (thanks Jules) sheared one bolt when re-tightening so replaced both! Wise to replace bolts and nuts on these and coat shanks with copper grease or similar.

Stuart, you may well be right....my memory is not what it once was....

Now....what car was I driving when I came here...?

11th May 2011, 08:12	#12
stevo snr Loves to post Rover 75Mk2 Saloon Conn SE CDTi Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Northwich Posts: 269 Thanks: 0 Thanked 4 Times in 3 Posts	I had loads of trouble getting mine out a few weeks ago. I didn't want to snap them so I ground off the protrusion and managed to get them out. If I get in the same situation again I'll drill them out, thread and all and put nuts and bolts in. __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]Thats a good boy Rover

11th May 2011, 18:34	#15
Jules This is my second home ZT 260 SE Twilight and 10 other 75 ZT's :O Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Conwy NORTH WALES Posts: 11,094 Thanks: 512 Thanked 1,116 Times in 763 Posts	Found it TC http://www.rotecindustries.com/RUSTB...t/Product.html The secret to it's effectiveness is "aggressive capillary action containing graphite which prevents further seizure during removal." __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Newbies do now!! 1. Plenum drains..all 3 or 4 year dependent 2. Cooling fan..All speeds functioning 3. Bonnet cable divider block

11th May 2011, 19:38	#18
RPWC This is my second home 75 model car Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: Newcastle upon Tyne Posts: 20,177 Thanks: 4,008 Thanked 5,083 Times in 3,114 Posts	I had the same trouble on my old Mondeo,but it snapped in situ, we had to cut it in the groove like you did then the top half came out easily by drillig,the remaining half had to be removed using a stud extractor. __________________ Cheers. Rich…

11th May 2011, 00:15	#11
James_Death Gets stuck in EX.2001 Rover 75 Conn SE 2.0, CDT,155 Brake, BRG Join Date: May 2010 Location: Doncaster Posts: 733 Thanks: 0 Thanked 6 Times in 5 Posts	Really surprised you got a grip.... The spring had been replaced before so could be reason for other bolt.

11th May 2011, 11:19	#13
Zeb Banned MGZT V8 & ZTT 190+LPG Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 8,089 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	When you replace the nuts on these...be sure to use locking nuts....or, if spotted that you haven't, it'll be an MOT failure....

11th May 2011, 18:56	#16
baggie9 Posted a thing or two Jaguar s Type Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: tipton Posts: 1,369 Thanks: 3 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	I had one stud sized in a mgb once,a mechcanic recomended this britool extracter.Only used it once but got the stud out in a minute,lent it out many times allways done the job.Last time i lent out never got it back. I paid about £10 a lot of money in the 70s.there's one on e-bay,worth buying for any mechanic.Link http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=b...tracter&_rdc=1

11th May 2011, 19:11	#17
Keith This is my second home ZT400 Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Ellesmere Posts: 5,948 Thanks: 0 Thanked 43 Times in 29 Posts	Last time I had this problem I did it situ Thin angle grinder blade instead of the saw and a suitable hammer Heat from a blow lamp does help as well. It is one of those jobs like the ABS sensors or the rear light screws for the tourers were loosening them off and applying a bit of copper grease and re tightening every so often will one day pay dividends

11th May 2011, 21:16	#19
Stuart1410 Regular poster MG ZT-T V6 + lpg (now sold) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Newport, Shropshire Posts: 78 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Zeb, I think the nuts you are referencing are on the wishbone lower end ball joint to hub where there is also a pinch bolt / nut arrangement whereas the strut to hub is a bolt into threaded hub. Just done both wishbones and rear bushes (thanks Jules) sheared one bolt when re-tightening so replaced both! Wise to replace bolts and nuts on these and coat shanks with copper grease or similar.