Changing Front Brake Pipes

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by alanaslan

Goodness that has gone up in price as I said I got mine a long time ago probably close on 20 years. I think it was nineteen pounds with discount and demontweeks were not the cheapest in the world. But I agree 100% there is nothing on the market as good as it for flushing systems. I have a digital moisture probe for brake fluid I have to say that it surprises me how quickly brake fluid absorbs water. Just after I got the probe the tourer got all its pipes hoses and callipers replaced as I felt there must be a problem due to the moisture content. I am tempted to say it made no difference to the speed with which the fluid took on water.
A good way to spend a Saturday means that the brake system is only 4 years old. I am glad I did it as I don’t think I could manage now. I hate old age everything takes longer.


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Generally the water content will only cause trouble if you do lots of hard braking and get the calipers so hot that the moisture in the brake fluid starts to boil.---

[myfirstrover]

Originally Posted by NigelOBB

Still got the jam jar and rubber tube in my tool locker lol


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The old jam jar and tube have never let me down yet !

[p2roverman]

Originally Posted by NigelOBB

Just about to change front brake pipes on the Connie. Can anyone give me some tips especially around bleeding 😬

I do it without any bleeding.

Are we talking the fixed metal pipes? Place the new pipe alongside the old one. Ensure the existing nipples will unscrew.
Top up the resevoir.
Disconnect the old pipe from the ABS unit and attach the new pipe.
Disconnect the old pipe from the flexible.
Wait until the new pipe has filled with fluid from the resevoir (this might happen quickly so have a tapered plug to block it or at least slow down the fluid loss)
Then attach the dripping new pipe to the flexible.
So no air entrained and no need to bleed.
Remove the old pipe. If it's the original steel one you'll probably have to saw it into sections. Try to bend the new copper pipe to fit into the clips the old pipe has vacated, quite tricky down the back of the KV6 engine.

The same method can be used to fit a new flexible, or in my case the old one which I had to take to the bench to remove a seized nipple (cut the old metal pipe and crushed it to prevent fluid loss).
After fitting the flexible to the caliper, press the piston in to backfill the flexible with fluid before connecting the dripping metal pipe.

[NigelOBB]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

I do it without any bleeding.

Are we talking the fixed metal pipes? Place the new pipe alongside the old one. Ensure the existing nipples will unscrew.
Top up the resevoir.
Disconnect the old pipe from the ABS unit and attach the new pipe.
Disconnect the old pipe from the flexible.
Wait until the new pipe has filled with fluid from the resevoir (this might happen quickly so have a tapered plug to block it or at least slow down the fluid loss)
Then attach the dripping new pipe to the flexible.
So no air entrained and no need to bleed.
Remove the old pipe. If it's the original steel one you'll probably have to saw it into sections. Try to bend the new copper pipe to fit into the clips the old pipe has vacated, quite tricky down the back of the KV6 engine.

The same method can be used to fit a new flexible, or in my case the old one which I had to take to the bench to remove a seized nipple (cut the old metal pipe and crushed it to prevent fluid loss).
After fitting the flexible to the caliper, press the piston in to backfill the flexible with fluid before connecting the dripping metal pipe.

That’s sort of how I did mine. Passenger side was the biggest faff surprisingly. It was also the side that got the advisory but disintegrated. The pipe was paper thin. The offside that failed came of intact. The pipes on both sides were rotten where they went through the inner wings.

The only hiccup was that the fuel line must have come off the under bonnet pump when I was refitting the battery box. It then decided to seize up when it dried out and needed a persuasive nudge with my Geordie spanner to get car bled and started. Doh 😖😖😖🤣🤣🤣🤣

I think there may have been air in the system before I changed the pipes as there’s a massive difference in the feel.



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[grivas]

Originally Posted by NigelOBB

I used my old Gunson Eezibleed.. it’s nearly 30 years old n still going strong..



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I bet it wasn't made in China!

[NigelOBB]

Originally Posted by grivas

I bet it wasn't made in China!

It wasn’t, neither was the jam jar and surgical tube lol

My Eezibleed has a selection of tin lids to 🤣 when was the last time you saw a master cylinder with one of those

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[alanaslan]

Originally Posted by p2roverman

I do it without any bleeding.

Are we talking the fixed metal pipes? Place the new pipe alongside the old one. Ensure the existing nipples will unscrew.
Top up the resevoir.
Disconnect the old pipe from the ABS unit and attach the new pipe.
Disconnect the old pipe from the flexible.
Wait until the new pipe has filled with fluid from the resevoir (this might happen quickly so have a tapered plug to block it or at least slow down the fluid loss)
Then attach the dripping new pipe to the flexible.
So no air entrained and no need to bleed.
Remove the old pipe. If it's the original steel one you'll probably have to saw it into sections. Try to bend the new copper pipe to fit into the clips the old pipe has vacated, quite tricky down the back of the KV6 engine.

The same method can be used to fit a new flexible, or in my case the old one which I had to take to the bench to remove a seized nipple (cut the old metal pipe and crushed it to prevent fluid loss).
After fitting the flexible to the caliper, press the piston in to backfill the flexible with fluid before connecting the dripping metal pipe.

Just a quick note to all, where possible use copper nickel pipe, it can cost a little more, it is almost as pliable as copper, but will last three times longer. A word of warning though double flares can take some practice. Sometimes sold as Kunifer pipe.
Copper pipe still like steel has a habit of oxidising, usually where the steel and copper meet. After a few years things can POP with unpleasant results. Where possible use brass pipe ends once done they should be good for twenty five years and if on with brass to brass they undo a treat no pipe corroding to the pipe end.
Alan