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Old 18th November 2016, 17:33   #91
minimutly
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Originally Posted by Phil-T4 View Post
All pulleys (sprockets) are the same regardless of the engine size and power output.
So which is it, they cant be the same if the notches are in a different place?
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Old 18th November 2016, 17:35   #92
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Originally Posted by Phil-T4 View Post
Officially the rear pulleys only time the exhaust cam to the inlet cam, however in practise the rear alignment marks line up when the inlet is in the correct position.

The front pulley holding tool sets the inlet cam in the correct position for the following to happen.

Inlet valves (2.0 litre engine):
⇒Opens 6° BTDC
⇒Closes 46° ABDC
Inlet valves (2.5 litre engine):
⇒Opens 2° BTDC
⇒Closes 54° ABDC
Inlet valves (2.5 litre engine 190PS):
⇒Opens -2° BTDC
⇒Closes 58° ABDC
Here we are, I believe these were the numbers in rave, but I cant open up mine.
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Old 18th November 2016, 18:23   #93
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Originally Posted by BigRuss View Post
The power output of the ZS is actually 177PS they just rounded it up
Russ; according to my ZT brochure it's 180 engine is also 177 Ps. Comments please?
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Originally Posted by minimutly View Post
And yes rimmers list the same cam for the 180 and 190 engine.
Same cams, same pulleys, different timing, marks will be out. Makes sense to me ..
Good point Huw. The rear marks won't align unless the 190 front tools are used as Russ said. Did you find this Phil when you worked on a ZT 180?
As MGR electronically detuned the 177 to 160Ps (same cams) then they could have done the same with the 190 to create the 180 (same cams). If so, then ...
Quote:
Simon, TB0052 for the ZT180 launch says "2.5 KV6 (177 PS) with 190 specification cam timing"
This could easily mean (and I believe it does), 190 cams, but not timed the same.
... TB 0052 would be correct!
As you said earlier, it's madness to have different timing such that the rear marks cannot be aligned.
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Originally Posted by minimutly View Post
So which is it, they cant be the same if the notches are in a different place?
I agree with you that if the inlet camshaft rear sprocket is the same on all engines, then the notch must be in the same place in order for the mark to be at the nine o'clock position. However, the cam lobes can be cast further around the circumference of the camshaft to achieve different timing. Does that make sense (I hope so)?

I always knew that chains were the best method.

Simon
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Old 18th November 2016, 19:54   #94
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[QUOTE=SD1too;2401095

I agree with you that if the inlet camshaft rear sprocket is the same on all engines, then the notch must be in the same place in order for the mark to be at the nine o'clock position. However, the cam lobes can be cast further around the circumference of the camshaft to achieve different timing. Does that make sense (I hope so)?




Simon[/QUOTE]

Yes it makes sense, except the 180 and 190 cams are identical - ie the lobes to slots will be in the same place on both.
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Old 21st February 2018, 23:26   #95
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Originally Posted by Phil-T4 View Post
No, they dont always line up perfectly, this is also evident on vehicles that have never had a belt change, the front (LH Bank) is always inline but the rear (RH Bank) isn't, it can be 1/2 or 1 tooth out of alignment with the timing pin is locked into the flywheel.

There are so many different threads covering the KV6 belt change, but I wish I'd read the various posts here before posting some questions in other threads.

However, this is the first time I'd seen the comment made by Phil here. Just done mine (2-litre) using the tools and noticed as expected the rear camwheel marks did not line up on the front bank yet they did on the rear bank. Wondered if I'd let something slip while doing the front belt, or whether this alignment discrepancy is due to the V6 configuration - I think it is. However will check the front tools again tomorrow.

What is needed is a definitive write up of this job as a 'sticky'. So much has been written and so many queries raised and points made that I suspect many members are being put off from doing what is actually a straightforward job if the official tools are used.
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Old 22nd February 2018, 12:10   #96
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What is needed is a definitive write up of this job as a 'sticky'. So much has been written and so many queries raised and points made that I suspect many members are being put off from doing what is actually a straightforward job if the official tools are used.
Have you seen the Rover video on youtube ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc
Caution - It does show the older 825 version rear tool and tool to rotate the exhaust cam !
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Old 22nd February 2018, 17:21   #97
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Have you seen the Rover video on youtube ?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2fFx8SPiTSc
Caution - It does show the older 825 version rear tool and tool to rotate the exhaust cam !
I've not seen it. However I looked on a number of threads here, and found even more threads after almost finishing. So many conflicting views and suggestions which I think is putting a lot of people off doing what is a straightforward, if time consuming job. I'm more than prepared to write a 'how to', not 'blow by blow' but important notes to be followed with reference to the manuals. The best of these is the one that comes with the Sealey tool, for which I must thank a member for sending me.
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Old 22nd February 2018, 20:27   #98
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I've not seen it. However I looked on a number of threads here.......... The best of these is the one that comes with the Sealey tool, for which I must thank a member for sending me.
Glad you liked that I agree ; it is the best I've seen too . However , armed with the Sealey instructions ( particularly for the differences between 825 and 75 ) then watching the Rover video puts the icing on the cake .
Recommend you have a look
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Old 26th February 2018, 15:47   #99
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Glad you liked that I agree ; it is the best I've seen too . However , armed with the Sealey instructions ( particularly for the differences between 825 and 75 ) then watching the Rover video puts the icing on the cake .
Recommend you have a look
THanks Chris, I did look at it, so easy when the engine is not in the car. The job is actually quite straight-forward (needs someone to write a 'how to' in the technical advice section), main difficulty being acces for some jobs and the fact that cables and pipes get in the way and risk damage to themselves. Job now on hold til weather warms up ,fortunately I have my £140 'spare' KV6 which just keeps going!
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