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20th February 2018, 23:33 | #7841 |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: Glasgow
Posts: 409
Thanks: 365
Thanked 83 Times in 62 Posts
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I always keep an eye on newly refitted wheels for bolts loosening off, sometimes the paint coatings flow under pressure.
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21st February 2018, 14:41 | #7842 |
This is my second home
Rover 75 cdt club + Rover 2.5 KV6 Conni SE Join Date: May 2008
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 11,356
Thanks: 6,587
Thanked 2,262 Times in 1,729 Posts
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I took the nacelle from round the steering wheel and tightened up the nut that keeps your steering column tight. Mine was getting very loose. Ok now. Wheels should be checked after around 30/50 miles after you have had them off, for loose nuts/bolts.
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Great Barr, Birmingham. |
21st February 2018, 16:09 | #7843 |
This is my second home
Roverless + 1.7D Sportage Join Date: Aug 2014
Location: East Norfolk
Posts: 7,022
Thanks: 729
Thanked 2,021 Times in 1,449 Posts
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Tapped along the sills on the V6 with an MOT style hammer to check the extent of the rusting around the jacking points. Not too bad actually. Cutting and welding soon!
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Oil in my veins! |
21st February 2018, 16:33 | #7844 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Sheffield
Posts: 1,531
Thanks: 875
Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts
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Not today but yesterday, put new brake shoes on Kims rear n/s wheel.
Took about four hours to get the retaining pins fastened. Absolute nightmare. when I finally managed to push them far enough in, they sprang out again as I tried to turn them. At one point I thought the second one was too short!. Finally had them both in place. Just the adjuster spring to do then. Well that took about an hour and a half in itself. Again, kept springing off and falling behind the expander. Took ages to fish it out, twice!. Anyway finally got everything on and started to tighten and centre it. Got fed up and went inside. Total time so far about 8 hours, and it still needs centring properly and the calliper and pads putting back on. Then there's the drivers side to do Oh the joys of diy car maintenance
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Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41 This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033 This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s |
21st February 2018, 16:42 | #7845 |
This is my second home
rover 75 1.8 vvc club se wedgwood blue Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Seaton Carew
Posts: 26,880
Thanks: 65
Thanked 7,142 Times in 4,642 Posts
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Took the undertray off & the wheel nut covers in preparation for head gasket renewal
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21st February 2018, 17:18 | #7846 |
Newbie
MG ZT-T Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Prescot
Posts: 4
Thanks: 0
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
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Spent far too long swearing whilst struggling to change the driver's side sidelight bulb.
Don't know what the purpose of the removable panel in the wheelarch liner is, but it certainly isn't to provide easy access to the back of the lights as the handbook claims!!
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Steve ---------------------- '05 ZT-T+190. X Power Grey '33 Austin 7 Tourer. Maroon/Black '66 Jaguar 'S' Type 3.8 Manual. BRG '96 Defender 90 300Tdi Hardtop. Coniston Green |
21st February 2018, 20:44 | #7847 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Connie Tourer & Connie SE Saloon & Club SE Tourer Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Leeds
Posts: 971
Thanks: 199
Thanked 71 Times in 59 Posts
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Fitted a new brake pipe to the OSF. Had to take the flexible to the bench to get the old pipe end nipple out.
No bleeding required. Push back the caliper piston to refill the replaced flexible. Allow the new pipe to fill by gravity from the resevoir, then connect! Only problem seems to be that the new pipe, purchased pre-assembled, has a nipple at the wheelarch end that is too long, so won't go into the flexible far enough to properly seat the spring clip. l |
21st February 2018, 23:06 | #7848 |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Bishop Auckland, Co. Durham
Posts: 267
Thanks: 48
Thanked 64 Times in 50 Posts
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Not today but Yesterday.... Changed rear brake calipers, discs & pads (pagid), was first time to change calipers.... was a bit nervous!!! no spongey brakes, pedal rock hard with ignition off. fitted new slider pins to carrier.
Pipe clamps I bought were pants! so used a small G clamp, worked well, fitted new calipers, loosened bleed nipple, then released G clamp, and used a Gunson Eezi bleed kit... seem to do the job.... bit more travel on brake pedal when driving, but guess need to bed in properly. Will paint pad carrier when get bit more time. (see photo) PS... day before (Monday 19th Feb) replaced my hydramount, will throw together a bit of a "how to" (as I took photos) for my MG ZTT 1.8T as could only find the diesel one (see photo of the knackered one i took off!!) |
22nd February 2018, 17:33 | #7849 |
Gets stuck in
Rover 75 Connie Tourer & Connie SE Saloon & Club SE Tourer Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Leeds
Posts: 971
Thanks: 199
Thanked 71 Times in 59 Posts
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Fitted one of Kaiser's thermostats while the engine was partially stripped for cambelt change. Used a jubilee clip on the fixed pipe to stop it working out of the block. May also add jubilee clips to the rubber pipe connections as well as the original Rover clips.
Next will be to take off a pair of rear camwheels again to renew the oil seals, annoyed I didn't spot it before fitting them with the new belt. |
23rd February 2018, 14:55 | #7850 |
Gets stuck in
Roverless at present :-( Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Walsall
Posts: 964
Thanks: 305
Thanked 99 Times in 95 Posts
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Changed oil, air, and pcv filters, oil, new Wipers. Checked and cleaned plenums and a look underneath, all looking okay front and rear for MOT next month.
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My Rover 75 2.0CDTi (131Ps) Conn SE Tourer Left the production line 08:07:14hrs on 01/07/2004 'Best to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it' Last edited by CimmaronG; 24th February 2018 at 20:10.. |
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