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Old 2nd April 2018, 09:12   #11
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Originally Posted by neilbaker86 View Post
It isn't, the damper has a shorter stroke on the ZT. Easier on a 75.
On a ZT you can fit the assembled strut to the car without needing to lower the subframe, or compressing the spring when refitting it to the car.

Having done at least eight pairs on both, I know which ones I'd prefer to do

Either way, it's not the worst job to do

Brian

Last edited by marinabrian; 2nd April 2018 at 11:47.. Reason: spooling mistooks
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Old 2nd April 2018, 09:13   #12
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This is what I use for coil springs from screwfix never ceases to scare me though. These have a good return on the hooks £20.00
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Old 2nd April 2018, 09:44   #13
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All above is useful information...

Both of my cars are 75s, and I've replaced all front suspension components without any problems. The fully assembled struts fit straight back in relatively easily without having to touch the sub-frame. Plenty of space is available without having to compress springs again on the assembled strut. As long as you can push the lower arm down slightly to get the ball joint pin in to the hub there's no problem whatsoever. This may mean jacking the front of the car up a little, but then it's likely to be up anyway as you have the wheels off.
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Old 2nd April 2018, 11:46   #14
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All above is useful information...

Both of my cars are 75s, and I've replaced all front suspension components without any problems. The fully assembled struts fit straight back in relatively easily without having to touch the sub-frame. Plenty of space is available without having to compress springs again on the assembled strut. As long as you can push the lower arm down slightly to get the ball joint pin in to the hub there's no problem whatsoever. This may mean jacking the front of the car up a little, but then it's likely to be up anyway as you have the wheels off.
Now take out the pinch bolt from the bottom of the damper, then leaving the hub in place, remove the spring and damper

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Old 2nd April 2018, 12:19   #15
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On that point, once the pinchbolt is free (which as we al know can be a bit of an epic struggle sometimes), what is the risk of the driveshaft popping while trying to get the strut out?
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Old 2nd April 2018, 12:21   #16
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On that point, once the pinchbolt is free (which as we al know can be a bit of an epic struggle sometimes), what is the risk of the driveshaft popping while trying to get the strut out?
what do you mean by popping?
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Old 2nd April 2018, 12:22   #17
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This is what I use for coil springs from screwfix never ceases to scare me though. These have a good return on the hooks £20.00
The double hook design is far more stable than a single hook, greatly reduced change of slipping...
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Old 2nd April 2018, 12:26   #18
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what do you mean by popping?
Pete, I should have said popping out - if the strut is being worked free and the hub is pivoting on the lower arm then would there be a chance the driveshaft could come out?
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Old 2nd April 2018, 12:37   #19
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Pete, I should have said popping out - if the strut is being worked free and the hub is pivoting on the lower arm then would there be a chance the driveshaft could come out?
Not if you have not removed the hub nut and you do not pull on it...

If the hb end does come lose just push it back in...
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Old 2nd April 2018, 15:20   #20
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Quote:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pete View Post
Pete, I should have said popping out - if the strut is being worked free and the hub is pivoting on the lower arm then would there be a chance the driveshaft could come out?
Quote:
Originally Posted by klarzy View Post
Not if you have not removed the hub nut and you do not pull on it...

If the hb end does come lose just push it back in...
When I did my sons MGZT strut we balanced the hub on a plant pot

1

Use a good socket and bar to undo the pinch bolt.
2

3

I/we also removed the ball joint, and the drop link, do others do this ? it certainly helped us.
4

5

ball joint
6

7

Used a piece of wood to free the ball joint
8

9

Remembering to remove the ABS sensor wiring and the brake hose from the strut.
10

11

12

13
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