Rust proofing - where are the at-risk areas?

[bl52krz]

I have used Waxoyle for over 40 years. I can assure you that it creeps very well into all corners even if you don't put any on the full component that you use it on. I had a Rover 2600 SD1. The rust bug was starting to attack the underside of the rear wing. I cleaned it up and put Waxoyle on it. About six months later, I noticed that the paint was starting to lift on the said wing lip and outside the wheel arch. On closer inspection, I found by running my fingers along where the paint was lifting, underneath there was a fine covering of what turned out to be Waxoyle. It had crept along under the paint between the metal and paint and lifted the paint off the metal. This paint was affixed firmly to the metal because I had tried to rub down the bubbling paintwork right down to the metal and it was I assure you it was firm. That is the reason I have always used Waxoyle.

[pletevl]

Nothing wrong with waxoyl

http://www.auson.se/sites/default/fi...nthly_uk_0.pdf

[first-things-first]

Originally Posted by rockerbox

Why is it sills rot on many cars, I believe ours are not too bad for it, but many are? Surely this well known issue could be resolved by manufacturers. Built in redundancy ? It's not right IMO

Built in redundancy. All cars made of stainless steel = no new sales. Average Joe keeps a car for 3 - 4 years from new, I think. Expected manufacturer "lifetime" of cars is around 10 years, I would expect.

[murphyv310]

Hi.
I mix my 5 litre tins of waxoyl with a 5 litre plastic container of WD40, this makes the Waxoyl much more runny and it then creeps into seams and welds much easier.
A few containers under the sills and areas that might ooze the mixture is a good idea as it can be run through a gauze and used again.
I've done it this way for many years, the only thing though is to remove as much rust as you can before doing the job. Make sure cavities are clear of mud and dirt, a light coating of road dust is OK though.

[Sonic ZS]

In all fairness, I do have an old jam jar & paintbrush in the garage, full of Waxoyl, for any external areas that require some additional protection. I've also found that it softened old underseal on my Discovery, where I brushed some on around the seat mounting bolts.

But having used Dinitrol thinned 50/50 with white spirit on various internal cavities over the years, my thoughts are that Waxoyl (even when thinned) is still the thicker of the two and hence this greater viscosity will reduce it's penetrative effect.

But each to their own

[suzublu]

I use this stuff, love Bilt Hamber products

[murphyv310]

Originally Posted by Sonic ZS

In all fairness, I do have an old jam jar & paintbrush in the garage, full of Waxoyl, for any external areas that require some additional protection. I've also found that it softened old underseal on my Discovery, where I brushed some on around the seat mounting bolts.

But having used Dinitrol thinned 50/50 with white spirit on various internal cavities over the years, my thoughts are that Waxoyl (even when thinned) is still the thicker of the two and hence this greater viscosity will reduce it's penetrative effect.

But each to their own

Waxoyl will always soften Bitumen sealants due to it containing white sprit. Most cars now don't use bitumen in their sealant these days as it can crack and split leading to water ingress. In fact softening bitumen sealant can reduce the effect of splitting and cracking plus of course the Waxoyl will often bridge any cracking.
My 50/50 mix Waxoyl/WD40 is purely used inside cavities, A pillar B pillar, sills, cavities above and inside wheel arches (often forgotten) where you can see it slowly ooze from the double skinning and spot welds on the arch lip, inside trailing arms and subframes.
Remove plastic, arch liners and once clean and dry a good spray in these areas is an insurance against corrosion, if the weather is dry for a couple of days leave them off to allow the Waxoyl to flash off in the air. In these more vulnerable areas I use 75% Waxoyl & 25% WD40 mixed.

The thinner products on the market to my mind although they may penetrate well do not have a sufficient surface area to withstand abrasion from road debris and large amounts of water from really wet roads......... again each to their own.

[Pete]

Originally Posted by suzublu

I use this stuff, love Bilt Hamber products

Same here. As their products are designed for ocean deployment Bilt Hamber is an excellent choice. I have previously used Waxoyl and found it good stuff if messy to use. When thinned down it can creep better but the smell from the white spirit can hang for a while.

One area that hasn't been mentioned in this thread is the leading edge of the bonnet, which can corrode. Bootlids are easy to do and it's worth getting a good coating in them as the wax also acts as sound-deadening.

Coating behind the wheelarch liners is also a good idea as moisture can be trapped between the body and the plastic.

If there is one thing I will not have anywhere near any of my cars it's old fashioned underseal. Absolutely dreadful stuff.

[murphyv310]

Can't deny the smell from Waxoyl, gives the missus heartburn.
It's even worse when mixed with WD!! Good job I don't smoke.