Another Central Locking Issue - Help!

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by BigRuss

If you have two keys and leave one in the ignition normally you can't lock it on the remote of the other. The alarm sounder will beep also when you try to lock it as you described.
It's supposed to be a safety feature,( but only works like that if bathrobe locking isn't enabled).

Try Fuse 36 (5A) for the immobiliser and see if that's blown or dirty (the later micro fuse blades get a build up of deposits on them )

Russ

I've been thinking about this. One thing I tried yesterday, after pulling F32 and reinstating, was to put the spare key in the ignition (without turning it on) and seeing if I could lock the car with the fob. The answer is 'yes'.

I'm guessing that it's not detecting the presence of the key in the ignition until after the ignition has been switched on and then off. This could possibly be the issue, but without knowing what the BCU (?) is expecting to see, it's hard to know what to check.

I'd never heard of 'bathrobe locking', I've just had to google it. I wonder if enabling it would solve the problem?

[daveo138]

Finally an update on my central locking issue.

Firstly, I can confirm that enabling bathrobe locking did not solve the problem.

At a recent Midlands nano-meet, I had a chat with Duncan about this issue and he suggested checking the voltages at the EWS. When I removed the EWS and looked at the connector socket, I noticed that there was a pin missing (10). This in itself is not unusual, as connectors will often have pins missing, for one reason or another. However, on inspecting the plug, the missing pin appears to be stuck in there. Also, having tracked down the pin-outs for the EWS, pin 10 should be VCC.

Socket with pin 10 missing


Plug with the remains of the pin - green blob



So it looks like Russ called it on post #14

Originally Posted by BigRuss

Sorry only just seen this think I may know the issue here, I've come across it a few times.

The same issues can arise when testing the locking and door actuators on T4 it's one of the few tests that's done with the ignition switched off. If the door actuators are ok the remote operates normally locking and unlocking the car.
As soon as the ignition is switched on it will no longer lock on the remote after switching off and removing the key.

This can be caused because the immobiliser is unable to check the locking state of the car usually because one of the immobiliser power feeds is missing.

If you have two keys and leave one in the ignition normally you can't lock it on the remote of the other. The alarm sounder will beep also when you try to lock it as you described.
It's supposed to be a safety feature,( but only works like that if bathrobe locking isn't enabled).

Try Fuse 36 (5A) for the immobiliser and see if that's blown or dirty (the later micro fuse blades get a build up of deposits on them )

Russ

All that remains is to reinstate the connection and see if it all works.

I have managed to remove the socket from a spare EWS that Duncan sent me (thank you, Duncan), but unless I can remove the broken pin from the terminal on the plug, there's no point in fitting it to my EWS.



Another option would be to solder a flylead to the inside of my EWS and then join that to the loom, although I'd rather not do that, if I can avoid it.

Unfortunately, I'm not currently able to do any crawling about in the footwell, so all I can do is think of possibilities, for the time being.

I hope to be back with another update when I've managed to do something with it.

[Arctic]

Originally Posted by daveo138

Finally an update on my central locking issue.

Firstly, I can confirm that enabling bathrobe locking did not solve the problem.

At a recent Midlands nano-meet, I had a chat with Duncan about this issue and he suggested checking the voltages at the EWS. When I removed the EWS and looked at the connector socket, I noticed that there was a pin missing (10). This in itself is not unusual, as connectors will often have pins missing, for one reason or another. However, on inspecting the plug, the missing pin appears to be stuck in there. Also, having tracked down the pin-outs for the EWS, pin 10 should be VCC.

Socket with pin 10 missing


Plug with the remains of the pin - green blob



So it looks like Russ called it on post #14



All that remains is to reinstate the connection and see if it all works.

I have managed to remove the socket from a spare EWS that Duncan sent me (thank you, Duncan), but unless I can remove the broken pin from the terminal on the plug, there's no point in fitting it to my EWS.

HI Dave.
I may have one of those plugs in the Nano boxes will seek it out tomorrow and investigate how to open the plug, and let you know which in turn maybe help to remove the broken pin 📌

[daveo138]

Hi Steve

That would be very helpful.

Thanks

[Arctic]

Hi Dave.
Well i could not find the exact plug/connection but i found several that are identical, they seem to be used in different places on the loom of the car.

1

On the side of the plug is a little tang, a small screwdriver inserted and then levered up and outwards will start the internal part to come away from the outer case.
2

3

4

once out you see the little metal tangs that hold the wires in.
5

6

Using the same small screwdriver press in the tang which your pin has snapped in.
7

Pull on that wire and it will move to the next section, press in again, and pull the wire it will come out.
8

9

10

Hope this helps you cheers Arctic

[daveo138]

Hi Steve, that’s a great help. Thanks.

I was having difficulty getting a good look at the plug, as there isn’t much slack in the wiring. Looks like it should be straightforward enough.