Another Central Locking Issue - Help!

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by daveo138

What I have been doing is pressing the internal lock button to lock the doors, then open the driver's door and lock with the key. This doesn't super-lock or arm the alarm, but it also doesn't lock the fuel filler flap ...

Hello Dave,

Using the key blade in the exterior handle lock barrel should superlock the car. You might find this thread interesting.

Originally Posted by daveo138

... I pulled F32 again, so the locking is working until the next time I turn on the ignition.

Fuse 32 in the later fuse box (your car is facelift) is in the battery supply to the BCU logic circuits. This suggests that you may have a multiplex fault.

Simon

[daveo138]

Thanks Simon.

I must admit, I've only been turning the key once to lock the driver's door. I don't think it's superlocking with one turn, as the fuel flap isn't locked. I will try two turns next time, to see what happens.

Since pulling F32 today, I've locked and unlocked a few times with the fob, but haven't turned on the ignition. As soon as I do, it will stop working again. The fuel filler flap is locked at the moment, so superlocking is now operative.

I know that a few people on the other thread are saying it's the driver's door motor, but once the fuse has been pulled, it all works fine, so I'm struggling to see how that can be the case.

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by daveo138

I must admit, I've only been turning the key once to lock the driver's door. I don't think it's superlocking with one turn, as the fuel flap isn't locked.

Hi Dave,

My key blade requires only one turn to superlock the car (contrary to the Rover manual).

When you turn your key once in the driver's door barrel, do all the doors superlock or just the driver's? You can check by lowering all the windows beforehand then reaching in and trying the internal mechanical door release levers. If the door physically opens after two pulls it is not superlocked. If the door cannot be physically opened no matter how many times you pull the internal door release lever then the door is superlocked. This test would give us useful information about the driver's door superlock motor. I agree with you that the fuse 32 test does not appear to be consistent with a non-operative superlock motor.

Checking the fuel flap is a clever idea, thanks for that. The MGR manual confirms that it locks only with superlocking.

Simon

[BigRuss]

Sorry only just seen this think I may know the issue here, I've come across it a few times.

The same issues can arise when testing the locking and door actuators on T4 it's one of the few tests that's done with the ignition switched off. If the door actuators are ok the remote operates normally locking and unlocking the car.
As soon as the ignition is switched on it will no longer lock on the remote after switching off and removing the key.

This can be caused because the immobiliser is unable to check the locking state of the car usually because one of the immobiliser power feeds is missing.

If you have two keys and leave one in the ignition normally you can't lock it on the remote of the other. The alarm sounder will beep also when you try to lock it as you described.
It's supposed to be a safety feature,( but only works like that if bathrobe locking isn't enabled).

Try Fuse 36 (5A) for the immobiliser and see if that's blown or dirty (the later micro fuse blades get a build up of deposits on them )

Russ

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by SD1too

Hi Dave,

My key blade requires only one turn to superlock the car (contrary to the Rover manual).

When you turn your key once in the driver's door barrel, do all the doors superlock or just the driver's? You can check by lowering all the windows beforehand then reaching in and trying the internal mechanical door release levers. If the door physically opens after two pulls it is not superlocked. If the door cannot be physically opened no matter how many times you pull the internal door release lever then the door is superlocked. This test would give us useful information about the driver's door superlock motor. I agree with you that the fuse 32 test does not appear to be consistent with a non-operative superlock motor.

Checking the fuel flap is a clever idea, thanks for that. The MGR manual confirms that it locks only with superlocking.

Simon

Hi Simon

I've tried locking the car with the key blade - both one and two turns. All doors lock and the alarm is armed, but the fuel filler doesn't lock.

That was yesterday. Tried it today with the window open. I had to pull F32 after opening the window, in order to get the c/l to work. One turn of the key, I could open the door with two pulls on the internal handle and the alarm went off. Two turns of the key produced the same result, so it seems I don't have super-locking from the keyblade.

In the 'fault' condition, the keyblade only locks the driver's door.

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by BigRuss

Sorry only just seen this think I may know the issue here, I've come across it a few times.

The same issues can arise when testing the locking and door actuators on T4 it's one of the few tests that's done with the ignition switched off. If the door actuators are ok the remote operates normally locking and unlocking the car.
As soon as the ignition is switched on it will no longer lock on the remote after switching off and removing the key.

This can be caused because the immobiliser is unable to check the locking state of the car usually because one of the immobiliser power feeds is missing.

If you have two keys and leave one in the ignition normally you can't lock it on the remote of the other. The alarm sounder will beep also when you try to lock it as you described.
It's supposed to be a safety feature,( but only works like that if bathrobe locking isn't enabled).

Try Fuse 36 (5A) for the immobiliser and see if that's blown or dirty (the later micro fuse blades get a build up of deposits on them )

Russ

Hi Russ

Thanks for that.

I spent an uncomfortable hour on my knees this afternoon, cleaning and testing all fuses. All fuses were good, but the fault persists, unfortunately.

Dave

[BigRuss]

That's a shame, has your car got a BBUS?
If so unplug it and see if that does the trick, when they go wrong they can cause strange things like this.

Russ

[daveo138]

Originally Posted by BigRuss

That's a shame, has your car got a BBUS?
If so unplug it and see if that does the trick, when they go wrong they can cause strange things like this.

Russ

Sorry, you’ve lost me.

What’s a BBUS and where would it be if I had one?

[BigRuss]

It's an alarm sounder with a battery backup, it's usually fitted if the car has headlamp washers

Both are connected to the same relay in the Body control unit.

Russ

[SD1too]

Originally Posted by daveo138

One turn of the key, I could open the door with two pulls on the internal handle and the alarm went off. Two turns of the key produced the same result, so it seems I don't have super-locking from the keyblade.

Yes, agreed, you have central locking only which applies to the key fob remote buttons as well I understand.

Originally Posted by daveo138

In the 'fault' condition, the keyblade only locks the driver's door.

That sounds as if it's locking the driver's door mechanically leaving all the others unlocked.

Simon