throttle High revving - Page 2

trikey · 10th March 2020, 21:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by janker

Is it the more solid plastic hose that inserts into the throttle body as it seems to have a collar to hold it in and it aint very good if its that one.

No not the breather pipe, the rubber (Or silicone) One that is the smaller of the two from the air filter.

trikey · 10th March 2020, 21:34

The pipe outlined in yellow

janker · 10th March 2020, 21:35

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

No not the breather pipe, the rubber (Or silicone) One that is the smaller of the two from the air filter.

okay i will check tomorrow if i can manage to get it started,first i need see about this starting issue ,just my luck at moment.

janker · 10th March 2020, 21:48

Quote:

Originally Posted by janker

Is it the more solid plastic hose that inserts into the throttle body as it seems to have a collar to hold it in and it aint very good if its that one.

Oh sorry i know the one, mine has a short new blue pipe fitted with a cone filter on the end which all looks sealed good i just remembered it.

janker · 4th April 2020, 16:44

Hi Everybody
Im still struggling to get this throttle correct,I have got hold of a secondhand idle valve and checked it cleaned and fitted it,At first it took a while to get used to the different idle control valve but calmed down after.
I think its an improvement but still not correct,I start it up from cold and it about 1200 rpm which is fine i drive to end of the street and pull up at junction and its up to 2000 rpm and does this until its warm,then it drops down to about 800rpm and is perfect.

I have a spare throttle body with a potentiometer on it is it worth trying this or any other ideas please.

cheers julian

stocktake · 4th April 2020, 17:27

If you blip the throttle and it returns to the correct RPM then it is the linkage or the throttle body. if not then I doubt it is either of those.

janker · 4th April 2020, 19:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by stocktake

If you blip the throttle and it returns to the correct RPM then it is the linkage or the throttle body. if not then I doubt it is either of those.

Cheers ,tried that has no effect.

janker · 10th May 2020, 19:19

Hi everybody hope you all keeping well,Im still trying solve why i have such high revs when cold.
Ive tried a different potentiometer in it to see if any difference but just the same,I cant find any leaks anywhere and its fine when warm.
It just seems like the ECU is taking control away from the throttle somehow ??

Would a T4 Diagnostics maybe show what the problem could be ?

many thanks julian

Mark Murphy · 11th May 2020, 09:46

High revs when cold sounds like an inlet leak to me.

KWIL · 11th May 2020, 11:10

I have had an instance where the "plate" on the end of the throttle shaft, (shaft has two flats and is secured by a nut with the locking type washer), developed a small movement due to wear or bad fitting. Revs stayed at 1200 after initial warmup, blip throttle and settled to 820, drive again, stop and it goes to 1200.

Found the problem by holding the "plate" and using a finger on the butterfly, found I could move it. Needless to say the throtttle body has to be off the manifold to find this all out !!

4th April 2020, 16:44	#15
janker Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon & MGZT 190 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Leek Posts: 390 Thanks: 333 Thanked 57 Times in 39 Posts	Hi Everybody Im still struggling to get this throttle correct,I have got hold of a secondhand idle valve and checked it cleaned and fitted it,At first it took a while to get used to the different idle control valve but calmed down after. I think its an improvement but still not correct,I start it up from cold and it about 1200 rpm which is fine i drive to end of the street and pull up at junction and its up to 2000 rpm and does this until its warm,then it drops down to about 800rpm and is perfect. I have a spare throttle body with a potentiometer on it is it worth trying this or any other ideas please. cheers julian __________________ This vehicle was the 53,401st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,551st 75 CDT Club to be made out of 3,403 This vehicle was the 5,192nd 75 in White Gold Metallic (code: GMN) to be made out of 12,251 White Gold Metallic 75s My New Addition MGZT 190 Trophy Blue 2001 Petrol.

4th April 2020, 17:27	#16
stocktake Vis Whiz Rover 75 2.5 auto Saloon Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: LEEDS Posts: 20,586 Thanks: 2,057 Thanked 3,056 Times in 1,621 Posts	If you blip the throttle and it returns to the correct RPM then it is the linkage or the throttle body. if not then I doubt it is either of those. __________________ Dave... Lost a few stones and a Gall Bladder and part of a bile duct and all of my dignity in the suppository incident

10th May 2020, 19:19	#18
janker Loves to post Rover 75 Saloon & MGZT 190 Join Date: Jun 2012 Location: Leek Posts: 390 Thanks: 333 Thanked 57 Times in 39 Posts	Hi everybody hope you all keeping well,Im still trying solve why i have such high revs when cold. Ive tried a different potentiometer in it to see if any difference but just the same,I cant find any leaks anywhere and its fine when warm. It just seems like the ECU is taking control away from the throttle somehow ?? Would a T4 Diagnostics maybe show what the problem could be ? many thanks julian __________________ This vehicle was the 53,401st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,551st 75 CDT Club to be made out of 3,403 This vehicle was the 5,192nd 75 in White Gold Metallic (code: GMN) to be made out of 12,251 White Gold Metallic 75s My New Addition MGZT 190 Trophy Blue 2001 Petrol.

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11th May 2020, 09:46	#19
Mark Murphy Regular poster Rover 75, and Mg zt 1.8T Join Date: Aug 2019 Location: Huntingdon Posts: 92 Thanks: 302 Thanked 23 Times in 22 Posts	High revs when cold sounds like an inlet leak to me.

11th May 2020, 11:10	#20
KWIL Precise Rover 75 Tourer 2.5KV6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Mar 2013 Location: Fleet Posts: 2,952 Thanks: 630 Thanked 617 Times in 480 Posts	I have had an instance where the "plate" on the end of the throttle shaft, (shaft has two flats and is secured by a nut with the locking type washer), developed a small movement due to wear or bad fitting. Revs stayed at 1200 after initial warmup, blip throttle and settled to 820, drive again, stop and it goes to 1200. Found the problem by holding the "plate" and using a finger on the butterfly, found I could move it. Needless to say the throtttle body has to be off the manifold to find this all out !!