MIG Welders.

[spyder]

I have two good arc welders and am reasonably competent with them on benchwork, but hate working under a car with them.

I used to use a 3 phase Co2 welder and again could hold my own with it.
I am looking at a single phase Clarke or Sealy 150 MIG unit to do some welding on the 45 and can foresee repairs to the 75's rear tail gate gas strut.

Has anyone used a similar unit for sill etc., it would be easier than the arc welder for exhaust work as well I would assume.

Any advice welcome.

[wullie480]

Mig will be a lot easier to weld bodywork with as you can turn the amps nice & low. For bodywork make sure it can down to about 30amps.
I've used those sort of migs & there ok for the odd occasion. I've toyed with the idea of getting one for some projects but having no where to keep it at the moment has prevented me from buying.
I was looking at getting R-Tech or gys smart mig although probably the R-Tech.

http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mig-w...tech-i-mig180/

https://www.weldequip.com/gys-smartmig-162.htm

Worth a read through http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ gives reviews etc on different welders but avoid gas less ones.

[JonMs]

I've got a Clarke (100 I think it is) that I've had for decades. Used it for full restoration of a Triumph Spitfire, so lots of thin sheet metalwork, and also thicker chassis work. Used it with great success to weld up the R75 exhaust. It's never missed a beat.

[breakfastinsmethwick]

Originally Posted by wullie480

Mig will be a lot easier to weld bodywork with as you can turn the amps nice & low. For bodywork make sure it can down to about 30amps.
I've used those sort of migs & there ok for the odd occasion. I've toyed with the idea of getting one for some projects but having no where to keep it at the moment has prevented me from buying.
I was looking at getting R-Tech or gys smart mig although probably the R-Tech.

http://www.r-techwelding.co.uk/mig-w...tech-i-mig180/

https://www.weldequip.com/gys-smartmig-162.htm

Worth a read through http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/ gives reviews etc on different welders but avoid gas less ones.

I have an R-TEC Mig and can't fault it, it's excellent and in my humble opinion much bettter value than a cheap mig.

[Cable Tie]

I've had sip welders for many a year I can't fault them in any way,a 150 amp turbo will weld chassis with ease and to a good standard too so for what you want it will be well powerful to do the job in hand good luck and hope this post helps

[Sonic ZS]

I bought a BOC Migmaster 130 about 25 years ago and it's still going strong to this day. I believe it was also sold (re-badged... now there's a coincidence... ) as a Cebora, Taskmaster, etc. Great little machine that welds thin bodywork with ease.

The structural parts of 45's, 75's, etc, are actually a little thicker than the skins of bonnets, wings and the like, so worthwhile having your amperage set a bit higher, to ensure decent penetration No point in having a pretty weld if it just sits on the surface.

And for those that like a bit of excitement, here's an action shot...

2015-04-23 15.10.18.jpg

[spyder]

Thank you for all the replies.

I will not be looking at gasless one at all, really don't see how it is better than a stick-welder at all.

The welding forum and other places do mention that a 13amp plug will not get upto 180A, although I can use it on a 16amp ring main if need be, I may stick to 150 anyway.

Sonic, where do you get your gas bottle or refills from?

Craig.

[JonMs]

The advantage of gasless Mig over Arc/stick-welding is that it is still highly controllable so you can use it on very thin metal. It's also very good if you need to weld outside and its very windy. But, it leaves a messy looking weld compared with gas mig and the wire is more expensive.

[spyder]

Originally Posted by JonMs

The advantage of gasless Mig over Arc/stick-welding is that it is still highly controllable so you can use it on very thin metal. It's also very good if you need to weld outside and its very windy. But, it leaves a messy looking weld compared with gas mig and the wire is more expensive.

Totally agree, there is cheaper wire available but then the weld and splatter is really really bad.

[kaiser]

The advice with welding machines used to be get the heaviest machine for your money, that translates into good transformer and wire feed units.

For hobby work, you don't need a lot of power, 150 Amps would normally be enough.

With the advent of inverters, that is no longer true, as a light machine can have a lot of power, using only fist sized transformers and doing a lot of the conversions electronically.

For a MIG, where you have heavy wire rolls and gas, the mass of the machine is relatively unimportant.

So, look at a transformer machine, they are far better lasting than the inverters, check you get a good range of power settings, 6 is good 10 is better and check the wire feed unit, you can see if it is cheaply made.
Look at the quality of the earth clamp, the length of the supply cord, the wheels, the frame of the machine. Don't go for a long torch, it increases the risk of jamming of the wire, and in order to minimize this, push the machine as far away as you can, so the torch is always as straight as possible. Thus also make sure the earth cable is at least as long as the torch.

With the gas, strap the bottle to the wall, and run a gas supply hose long enough on the ground or under the roof. the gas is non toxic and inflammable.
This is the best option especially if you have the big heavy bottles.
Use a mixed gas, Argon/Co2 and get the right fitting on the gauge to make sure it fits the bottle. It is different from pure CO2 which is cheaper, colder and more spitting.

If you want to make use of the machine outside, make sure you can change the polarity on the torch/earth cables as that is needed with the cored wire.

Single phase is the best option if you need to move the machine and use it at home. Three phase is a bit better, bu not much. It gives a better, smoother weld, but don't even worry about that it is insignificant. For inverters it is the same single or three phase.
Use only thin wire for car body work, 0,6or more normally 0.8. The larger diameters are cheaper but not worth it as you cannot go low enough on amperage.
Get a self darkening helmet, a pair of gloves and trouser that cover your shoes, but not flapped up, as spatter will sit there and set you on fire, thus cotton and no synthetics. Also a cap, that can cover for light entering behind the mask from above.
Be careful about welding fumes especially if welding on galvanized, and never ever have petrol soaked rags lying around. Don't weld if you stand in a pit, the gas is heavier than air and will fill the pit. You can die from that.

Have a fire extinguisher ready at all times and make sure the bottle is always securely fixated, yet easy to remove in case of fire. Always get the bottle out first if ever a fire occurs.

Good luck, don't be afraid of an older transformer machine they can be outstanding value!