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Old 28th February 2020, 10:50   #11
janker
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Hi Thanks
Ive just seen these would they fit my Rover 75 2002 Diesel car https://www.carparts4less.co.uk/p/an...ring-627750621

cheers
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Old 28th February 2020, 10:59   #12
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If you've entered your registration on their site and these came up then the answer is Yes. Don't forget to enter the discount code.

Regards
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Old 28th February 2020, 22:38   #13
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Well im biting the bullet and ordered new arms springs and fitting bolts,Im going try to do it myself,shes to good a car to let go and if i cant do it on my back then i will pay a garage to do it,Im just wondering about this captive nut that can come free,Is there anyway i can get heat on it before i try to remove it or is it inside the subframe ?
I was going try to do it without dropping subframe if i can.

cheers julian
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This vehicle was the 53,401st 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381
This vehicle was the 2,551st 75 CDT Club to be made out of 3,403
This vehicle was the 5,192nd 75 in White Gold Metallic (code: GMN) to be made out of 12,251 White Gold Metallic 75s

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MGZT 190 Trophy Blue 2001 Petrol.
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Old 29th February 2020, 00:54   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janker View Post
..... Im just wondering about this captive nut that can come free,Is there anyway i can get heat on it before i try to remove it or is it inside the subframe ?
I was going try to do it without dropping subframe if i can.

cheers julian
There are four of them - one per arm. The lower arm ones are directly above the red P in this pic. (This is the underside). You could get heat onto these two.




This is the topside - you can't see this side when the subframe is on the car. The upper arm pair are in those cutouts directly above the inner blue arrows. No chance of getting heat onto them unless you take the subframe off completely.



Sorry about all the arrows - they were originally for pointing out something else.

Last edited by Blink; 29th February 2020 at 01:00..
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Old 29th February 2020, 07:16   #15
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I guess I was lucky as I have just renewed mine, I sprayed the captive nut area with penetrating fluid for the week before and the bolt came out easily, the problem I had was the hub side the bolt and rose bush were solid so I had to cut them out and fit a new rose bush, which gave me time to spray the new arm with anti corrosion spray inside and out
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Old 29th February 2020, 08:22   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
There are four of them - one per arm. The lower arm ones are directly above the red P in this pic. (This is the underside). You could get heat onto these two.




This is the topside - you can't see this side when the subframe is on the car. The upper arm pair are in those cutouts directly above the inner blue arrows. No chance of getting heat onto them unless you take the subframe off completely.



Sorry about all the arrows - they were originally for pointing out something else.
Many thanks that helps alot know i know what im dealing with appreciated .
julian
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Old 29th February 2020, 11:34   #17
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Quote:
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Many thanks that helps alot know i know what im dealing with appreciated.
julian
Here's a clearer view of them.


1. Both upper nuts viewed from topside



2. Closer split view of pic 1



3. As pic 2 but with cages arrowed




4. Both lower nuts viewed from underside



5. Closer split view of pic 4




Problem 1 is there are no 'spannerable' flats on the main body of the nuts - the only flats are inside the cage.

Problem 2 is the cage (arrowed blue in pic 3) is far too weak and it's liable to bend under high torsional force. If they'd used a much heavier gauge steel for the cages and welded it on properly, the idea would have worked - but they didn't!

If the cage bends too far the nut will spin and you can't stop it because you can't get a spanner onto it (although you can get grips onto the lower pair).


As Robti says above, the best bet is to bombard the area with penetrating fluid for a week before you try undoing the bolts. Plusgas is the best fluid I've found. You can wire brush the threads where they poke though the lower nuts before Plusgassing - you can't do this with the upper pair though. Plenty of Plusgas through the sides (arrowed below). Ditto onto all four bolt heads.



Good luck.

Last edited by Blink; 29th February 2020 at 12:04..
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Old 29th February 2020, 14:07   #18
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My experience of these is that it is not the initial pressure applied to "crack" the bolt but the increasing pressure that is used when the rust on the end of the thread is being drawn through the nut.
Backwards and forwards is without doubt the best method here, as soon as you feel the bolt start to tighten up when you are undoing it then tighten it back up a bit and then start to undo it again.

Pretty good chance of getting them out that way.
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Old 29th February 2020, 18:33   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stocktake View Post
My experience of these is that it is not the initial pressure applied to "crack" the bolt but the increasing pressure that is used when the rust on the end of the thread is being drawn through the nut. ....
Yes, definitely - rust is the major factor when undoing the bolts.

There's also a problem when tightening them. The nuts have inserts (pic below) - as soon as the bolt reaches the insert the nut starts to turn inside the cage. That alone can mess up the cage and back you're in the spinning nut situation again.

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Old 3rd March 2020, 12:18   #20
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Juilan - re the arm bolts, I forgot to say the handbrake cables get in the way of spanners and so does the heat shield.

Unbolting the heat shield will give you more room and (if the handbrake is off) the cables can be popped out of the bracket and pushed out of the way. Bracket is #6 here.

Upper arm bolts: you'll need a 75mm 1/2" extension to put between the 15mm socket and ratchet/breaker bar.

Last edited by Blink; 3rd March 2020 at 12:21..
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