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Old 17th January 2021, 10:11   #11
Timefortea23
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Originally Posted by Pete View Post
I'll say now that I don't really do electrics, but have you checked the ECU isn't drowning in a blocked plenum?
So I've taken out the ECU. The bottom of the plenum seemed a bit damp, but not full. I'll clear out the drain and put the ECU in the airing cupboard for a few hours to see if that dries anything out. Image of the plenum below.


Last edited by Timefortea23; 17th January 2021 at 10:28.. Reason: Image too large!
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:24   #12
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Originally Posted by vitesse View Post
Think that the tacho needle moving is evidence that the crank sensor is working rather than the cam sensor.
I've got a replacement cam sensor on order to see if this resolves the issue .
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:25   #13
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Originally Posted by trikey View Post
You have water on the kbus line somewhere, this will trigger the hazards and window issue.
I've had a good look around the car and can't see anywhere that's obviously wet. Bottom of the boot seemed dry. Is there anywhere in particular I should look?
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:29   #14
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When the ignition is turned on the ECM runs the fuel pump for 2 seconds. With the rear seat cushion raised can you hear this, or measure it using a voltmeter?
Hi Simon. No I can't hear it so I don't think it's priming when the ignition is turned on.

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When you turn the ignition key to position II (ignition on) do the low fuel, high coolant temperature and brake warning lights illuminate for 4 seconds?

Simon
Yes they do. Cheers, Dan.
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:30   #15
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I've got a replacement cam sensor on order to see if this resolves the issue
Hi Daniel,

Try to resist speculative purchasing of new parts as I fear that you've just wasted your money on this one. The camshaft position sensor is used only when starting the engine and will not cause it to cut out once running which is what you've described to us.

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Old 18th January 2021, 08:37   #16
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Hi Simon. No I can't hear it so I don't think it's priming when the ignition is turned on.
OK, thanks Dan.

Next place your multimeter across the fuel pump connector (pin 2 white/purple & pin 5 black) and turn the ignition on. Do you see 12v?

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Old 18th January 2021, 08:45   #17
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Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
It cut out with hazards coming on you say eh?

The most likely culprit is the inertia switch located behind the passenger side A post kick panel.
Hi Brian. Thanks for the suggestion, just gave that a go and no luck unfortunately.

Dan.
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:48   #18
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Hi Daniel,

Try to resist speculative purchasing of new parts as I fear that you've just wasted your money on this one. The camshaft position sensor is used only when starting the engine and will not cause it to cut out once running which is what you've described to us.

Simon

Hi Simon.

Fair point! Sorry if I was unclear in my description, when the fault initially occurred the car would start for a few seconds then shut down. However now I don't even get it to run for a few seconds. It just cranks.

Not sure if this makes any difference to the camshaft position sensor point? I guess not or the car wouldn't have started on the first day.

Cheers, Dan.
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Old 18th January 2021, 08:56   #19
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Originally Posted by Timefortea23 View Post
Not sure if this makes any difference to the camshaft position sensor point?
We need to be sure that the fuel pump runs before considering sensors.

I appreciate that you've reset the inertia switch without success. Since it also feeds the BCU and therefore may well be responsible for the hazard lights operating, I would like you temporarily to by-pass it. Remove the connector and join the two terminals. Does the fuel pump run now?

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Old 18th January 2021, 09:15   #20
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
We need to be sure that the fuel pump runs before considering sensors.

I appreciate that you've reset the inertia switch without success. Since it also feeds the BCU and therefore may well be responsible for the hazard lights operating, I would like you temporarily to by-pass it. Remove the connector and join the two terminals. Does the fuel pump run now?

Simon
Thanks for the prompt response Simon. So I've just gone and checked for 12v between pin 2 and pin 5 as suggested. I'm not getting 12v when the ignition is switched on. Also as my initial post I've previously been able to power the pump with a battery sat next to the car and putting power through pins 2 & 5 and it worked fine and was pumping fuel to the engine bay.

I'll have a go at jointing the two terminals later this evening after work and report back.

Cheers, Dan.
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