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29th April 2024, 16:08 | #11 |
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Heat will help combined with using the weight of the car as suggested by Popcorn. You can also drop the car a few inches onto wood blocks under the pin with a piece of flat steel on top of the blocks (with the nut on) failing that drop the subframe, upside down with a big hammer and a full swing will get it out. Rust proof your subframe whilst it's off as a bonus.
Lee.
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29th April 2024, 17:16 | #12 |
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hi to all
i have had another idea i have one of these Fork Strut Coil Clamp Spring Compressor Macpherson Tool Set Kit Auto Garage Set and the smallest fork fits between the subframe and the arm but the fork that will go between the subframe and the arm will have to be attached upside down i am going to try this |
29th April 2024, 18:01 | #13 |
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I'm not so sure about that Lee. The lower arm is, I think, aluminium which conducts heat extremely efficiently. The subframe is a massive metal structure which will also absorb heat intended for the balljoint. If a naked flame is being considered, isn't there a risk of destroying the joint's rubber boot?
That's a massive job. Why do folk consider it preferable to buying the puller I suggested (for the price of a tank of fuel) which will guarantee to release the joint in a few minutes (I've done it myself)? Simon
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29th April 2024, 19:31 | #14 |
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simon i tried the puller you mentioned and as i tightened the bolt the puller slipped off the subframe i tried several times no joy and as for the heat i would be heating the subframe not the arm where the thread is and as for the rubber boot i would have wet cloth around the top of the rubber boot
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30th April 2024, 10:26 | #15 | |
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Quote:
Dropping the subframe makes the job easier, allows easy access for torquing the bolts and a chance to clean up and rust proof the subframe. I wouldn't say its a massive job Simon, it's one part of doing a clutch, Now that's a massive job . Lee.
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30th April 2024, 11:36 | #16 |
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Hi Lee,
Maybe I'm wrong but I understand from David's first post that he plans to renew only the bush, not the whole arm ... Simon
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30th April 2024, 12:00 | #17 |
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hi to all
this morning i had another go at getting the arm off no joy so i tried to get the bush off and i was successful and the new bush also went on all i need to do now is bolt the bush to the subframe but i will have to line it up first david |
30th April 2024, 13:11 | #18 | |
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Quote:
https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=299728 Post No2 in this thread. Lee.
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] Last edited by Lee T; 30th April 2024 at 13:18.. |
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30th April 2024, 22:22 | #19 | |
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Yes it does, agreed, but that's the general subject of the thread. David's first sentence states clearly his plans in detail.
Quote:
Simon
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1st May 2024, 08:21 | #20 |
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I never remove the full arm when replacing the bush. Biggest issue is the quality of the new bush and how easily they go on, I’ve seen some completely the wrong shape. Once the bush is in place the surround won’t sit flush so be careful not to cross thread the bolts. A large pair of water pump pliers / swan neck pliers can be used to bring the two surfaces together to help with the bolt relocation.
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