The forum idiot strikes again!

[Phil]

This afternoon I put the Marina on a ramp at work to change the diff oil, gearbox oil and engine oil and have a nose around underneath. I was very nervous about this and feared the worst.

I didn't need to worry. All very tidy, although it does need some tidying underneath, it really isn't that bad.

The damp petrol tank is from the leaking cap where I overfilled it.




I couldn't find a drain plug on the diff so I sucked out as much oil as I could with a big syringe and filled it up with EP90. The oil that came out was like treackle. I changed the gearbox oil with 20w50, the oil that came out of that STUNK! I also changed the engine oil and that came out like goo too. The old oil filter was really rusty so obviously been on for a long time. Incidentally I had a right old job getting hold of an oil filter for it??!! I refilled the engine with 20w50. I then changed the leaking rocker cover gasket. It is obvious why it was leaking so badly, someone had used rtv on the cork gasket. I was going to do the tappets but I then got told that you have to adjust the tappets with the engine running! Is that true?? I hope not. Never heard of anything so silly.
I had a good look around and have found that the n/s track rod end is seized, both front wheel bearings have play but I hope I can repack them with grease and adjust out the play. There is no reserve travel at the handbrake, all mechanism is free and operates but the handbrake doesn't hold. The only other thing is the washer jets don't work. All in all not too bad.

[Roverowner]

Looks really good Got a lovely little runner there. Haven´t you got a Haynes book yet. Tappets are done with the engine not running of course. I think the play depends on whether the engine is -hot- or cold. My old Volvo engines used to be done with the engine warm.

[Phil]

The bloke who told me used to build Marinas and has been a mechanic for about 40 years. When he said it a couple of others agreed. I don't think they were winding me up. In my workshop manual he showed me and it does say the clearance should be .3mm engine running!!

[Ragman]

I have heard of it - never done it though!

[Roverowner]

Never heard of it. The oil will splash all over the shop. Run it warm and then do them to 3mm. That should do it. With a cold engine the gaps are slightly larger (expansion). They must be winding you up.

[Phil]

Originally Posted by Roverowner

Never heard of it. The oil will splash all over the shop. Run it warm and then do them to 3mm. That should do it. With a cold engine the gaps are slightly larger (expansion). They must be winding you up.

He is quite an angry man. I don't think he would wind me up like that. He said you have to turn idle right down and an A series he said won't spash all over the place without the rocker cover.
The book says to do them cold. I always thought the valve clearance was at its smallest when cold? At least thats the way on Honda.

[Roverowner]

Originally Posted by Phil

He is quite an angry man. I don't think he would wind me up like that. He said you have to turn idle right down and an A series he said won't spash all over the place without the rocker cover.
The book says to do them cold. I always thought the valve clearance was at its smallest when cold? At least thats the way on Honda.

Could be, ages since I did it. If the book has do them cold then do it that way. These old engines have good tolerances, not like modern ones. So you have some leeway. I would do it cold at 3mm and then start it up. If it sounds okay then let it run to normal temp and then turn it off. Check them again when it´s cold again. The most important thing is the oil which probably hadn´t been changed for 5 years or more. A modern engine wouldn´t stand that. Iron has it´s advantages

[Ragman]

I remember - it's GM that recommend valve clearances set with engine runnong on some of their engine (Chevy small block)

[2Diesels]

I've done them running on Minis & Vivas before

[stocktake]

Yup, and still do on a straight six triumph. (not recomended)