Rear springs and a rusty arm

[willster]

I changed the rear springs on my tourer today, wasn't too bad really all bolts came pretty easily. Was slightly confused that the existing springs had RG code but instead of orange marking I was expecting it was green and yellow?! I also discovered one of my arms is very rusty and was starting to crumble with a large hole on the seat. Does anyone know how long I can safely leave it like that as I'm too busy at work for a month or two now to tackle the replacement?

[Ian G]

Originally Posted by willster

I changed the rear springs on my tourer today, wasn't too bad really all bolts came pretty easily. Was slightly confused that the existing springs had RG code but instead of orange marking I was expecting it was green and yellow?! I also discovered one of my arms is very rusty and was starting to crumble with a large hole on the seat. Does anyone know how long I can safely leave it like that as I'm too busy at work for a month or two now to tackle the replacement?

You need to get it sorted ASAP. If the arm gets too weak it will collapse causing the wheel to assume a somewhat odd angle..
I would suggest changing both sides but I suspect someone with more mechanical know how than me will be along soon.

Link to an (old) thread but the story is the same.
https://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/for...d.php?t=137206

Cheers Ian

[COLVERT]

Needs looking at ASAP as the metal either side of that hole will be extremely thin.---

[willster]

Thanks guys I'm trying to get a picture on for people to see but it's asking me for a URL, i just want to attach one. I might have to pay someone to do it, anyone any guesses on labour costs for both rear arms?? Cheers

[Ian G]

You can find new ones here. https://www.dmgrs.co.uk/collections/...-and-rgg104972..
Price shown is each

Cheers Ian

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by willster

Thanks guys I'm trying to get a picture on for people to see but it's asking me for a URL, i just want to attach one. I might have to pay someone to do it, anyone any guesses on labour costs for both rear arms?? Cheers

To attach a picture, click on the manage attachments box, then upload from your computer the picture you want.

This will display as a thumbnail at the bottom of your post, like this

In terms of doing the job, if you car has an anti roll bar, it will be a case of removing the spring and the three bolts securing the arm, if no anti roll bar is fitted, then two bolts.

You've shown yourself to be more than capable by replacing the spring, just backtrack and replace the arm, it's more than doable on the drive at home with the minimum of tools

Brian

[willster]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

To attach a picture, click on the manage attachments box, then upload from your computer the picture you want.

This will display as a thumbnail at the bottom of your post, like this

In terms of doing the job, if you car has an anti roll bar, it will be a case of removing the spring and the three bolts securing the arm, if no anti roll bar is fitted, then two bolts.

You've shown yourself to be more than capable by replacing the spring, just backtrack and replace the arm, it's more than doable on the drive at home with the minimum of tools

Brian

Thanks Brian for that i was trying to do it on my phone and i wasn't getting the attachment icon. I do fancy doing the arms myself , bit worried about the other end of the arm at centre of the car , sound like it could be tricky .Also i cant seem to source the rubber spring seats for the bottom , one of mine was mangled from the rusty arm??
Doesnt like the pic from my phone says uploading failed ?!

[willster]

Think i finally managed the pictures by reducing their size in paint .

[marinabrian]

Will, that looks as if the drainage hole has been blocked.........you could risk using that for a short while provided the lower part of the arm is in good order.

In terms of the pivot bolt on the inboard side, I soaked the end of the bolt in plusgas, through the small hole in the bottom of the subframe, for a couple of days prior to tackling the job.

The next step is to crack the bolts, using a 3" extension on a good quality 15mm single hex socket and a 1/2" breaker bar.

Once the bolt starts moving, switch to using 3/8" drive sockets with a ratchet, and if at any point the bolt starts to "tighten up", wind the bolt back in and spray with more penetration oil.

I used this method with a leisurely and patient approach, and both bolts came out without the need to drop the subframe, or damaging the captive nuts, both took less than an hour and a half to remove.

More troublesome were the outboard bolts securing the upper arm to the rose joint bushes in the trailing arms, one side came out easily, the other side the bolt was steadfastly seized into the central part of the bush.

So before you commit to the job, I would check to see if the outer bolts can be removed, this of course is easy enough to check, if the bolt can be slackened, and moves fore and aft in the bush, then the job should be straight forward, if not, you should order both a new bolt and bush for the time that you tackle the job.

If you need to replace the bushes, they can be found HERE

Brian

[willster]

Thanks Brian very helpful information. When I looked at the other end of the arm all I could see was a rusty looking welded nut, I will have to have another look for the bolt head, yes the lower skin was okay and solid fortunately. Il probably look to do this job in March when I finish my next contract.