HGF on my V6

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by amblegrumpy

Hi,
Forgive me sticking my nose in where it probably isn't wanted - particularly since I'm a new owner and member - but I would definitely agree with RodgerD in that your problem is almost certainly the thermostat stuck shut. True, I haven't done much to my car as yet (and had to seek help from the chaps myself recently) but you can pretty much take it as read that any liquid cooled ICE with a thermostat will exhibit those tendencies described by RodgerD and others. Over probably too many misspent years I have grappled with thermostat failures (Hillman Imp/Bond 875 - ho ho ho) and if the bottom hose doesn't suddenly get warm after a decent time, then it's the thermostat.
It isn't altogether surprising as they are, whilst quite a clever idea, quite crappily made which is reflected in the cheap cost. I tend to renew thermostats whenever I've got a cooling system job to do, even down to just changing a hose - wasteful maybe, but far better than sitting at the side of the road awaiting rescue from the so-called expects of the fourth emergency service.
Also, I notice everybody is going to "PM" each other - I know I'll feel a right *** for asking, but I don't know and the limits of my personal ignorance are a surprise to me daily.....

Neil, no need to feel daft if you don't know what a PM is or indeed how it's done.

If you wish to send someone a "PM" or the non abbreviated "Private Message" simply click on their user name the send a "PM" is the second in the drop down list that appears.

Dead easy

Brian

[MikeHurley]

Hey Archermav, having had a similar series of v6 issues with my previous 75, you are getting the best advice from members and from my personal experiences in the past my money is definitely on it being your thermostat. If you are confident the keyhole method is quicker, but if renewing manifolds and you've got new manifold gaskets its worthwhile doing at the same time. Finally, refilling coolant to ensure you have no air lock trapped in the thermostat housing is important as you can end up with symptoms similar to those you have just experienced before RAC/AA.
Really looking forward to hearing that you're back up, running and luxuriating in your 75 v6! 🙏🙌🍻😂

[archermav]

Righto, having read my Haines manual, getting really confused then lo, finding the how to from Canonite, I've had a good look at the issue. Removed the engine cover and discovered that there is indeed evidence of a leak via the thermostat.

So, I shall order one from Matt and then either convince my brother in law to fix it (after all he is a mechanic) or bask in the glow of my own incompetence and attempt it myself.

Thanks chaps, I shall keep you updated.

[minimutly]

Just picking up the end of this, so apologies if it's been said before:
The most difficult bit of the stat change is removing all the fuel,water and breather pipes without damaging them - the fuel pipe being the one that will render you Carless - so extra careful there.
Other than that have a good look, or preferably get spare, inlet manifold gaskets, they have a habit of leaking at the ends. Personally I'd do both gaskets and tstat together.

[heli flyer]

I know from a long and winding road from having constant overheating, air locks and coolant elections from the header tank, it can be very confusing. In my case it was all due to a previous owner using a radiator sealant. This promptly blocked the oil cooler giving poor heater output due to restricted flow and to top it off, constant blocking of the return pipe to the header tank. This proved difficult to trace as after by-passed the oil cooler, all would be fine for a couple of days and then the coolant loss problem would return. After a good flushing of the system all is how it should be, for now! Hope this is of some help to you and Ps3000

[chris75]

Originally Posted by archermav

So, I shall order one from Matt and then either convince my brother in law to fix it (after all he is a mechanic) or bask in the glow of my own incompetence and attempt it myself.

Whilst you are waiting on parts , have a read of this to prepare ...
http://www.jimmcglynn.pwp.blueyonder...tat/index.html
Also , use the drainplug on the front of the block to lower the water level , or you can get water running into the valve ports when you remove the manifolds !
Enjoy

[archermav]

Mmmmm, that didn't go quite as well as planned



It was either already snapped, or my ham fisted'ness caused it(if you see the small blue cap then just look vertically down). Mind, I am from the school of if it looks complicated, get a bigger hammer.

I'm down to trying to undo the bolt that holds thermostat, however, it's a no go. I've a feeling that this maybe a Rover too far for me. It's my fifth one, and each has developed faults. Two were HG, one electrical and the fourth one had a mysterious water leak.

I like this car, but have no confidence in it I'm afraid. It's been a catalogue of small niggly faults. I appreciate all cars suffer, especially older ones. This may just be the straw that broke the camel so to speak.

So, I really do appreciate all the help from you good folks, but I'm just not sure that I can do Rover again.

It will either be an ebay add, a scrap man or advertised on here.

[RodgerD]

Originally Posted by archermav

Mmmmm, that didn't go quite as well as planned



It was either already snapped, or my ham fisted'ness caused it(if you see the small blue cap then just look vertically down). Mind, I am from the school of if it looks complicated, get a bigger hammer.

I'm down to trying to undo the bolt that holds thermostat, however, it's a no go. I've a feeling that this maybe a Rover too far for me. It's my fifth one, and each has developed faults. Two were HG, one electrical and the fourth one had a mysterious water leak.

I like this car, but have no confidence in it I'm afraid. It's been a catalogue of small niggly faults. I appreciate all cars suffer, especially older ones. This may just be the straw that broke the camel so to speak.

So, I really do appreciate all the help from you good folks, but I'm just not sure that I can do Rover again.

It will either be an ebay add, a scrap man or advertised on here.

That just looks like a 8mm breather pipe, easy fix with a couple inches of rubber hose.

Are you doing the key hole method?, if so.

If you remove (take the bolts out, and swing it out of the way) the top (plastic) manifold you can feed a 10mm socket on a long extension past the aluminum manifold to release the thermostat bolt, it's then plain sailing.

[archermav]

Rodger,
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I've spent the last hour looking at Range Rovers for sale Then decided to check back in on here.

You say it's just a breather pipe? Nothing too much to worry about then.

I'm still struggling with the actual thermostat itself. Just cannot get to the bolt.

[RodgerD]

Originally Posted by archermav

Rodger,
Thanks for the words of encouragement. I've spent the last hour looking at Range Rovers for sale Then decided to check back in on here.

You say it's just a breather pipe? Nothing too much to worry about then.

I'm still struggling with the actual thermostat itself. Just cannot get to the bolt.

4 x 10mm bolts that hold the top manifold in place and with luck the two 6mm bolts are missing round the back of the manifold, just lift it out of the way and then you can get to the bolt with a 10mm socket and long extension.