HGF on my V6 - Page 2

Greeners · 1st May 2015, 14:03

Quote:

Originally Posted by archermav

I'm fairly sure the fan is fine, I pressed the windscreen button and the air blew nicely.

I also recall sitting in traffic this morning listening to the fan, which I don't normally notice.

Not the fan on the heater matrix, the fan on the main radiator......

DMGRS · 1st May 2015, 14:09

If the new cap cures the problem, I'll make sure you're refunded for it. Given that you've changed the cap, I'd be looking towards thermostat next.

Again, good luck - I've got my fingers crossed for you.

Ps3000 · 1st May 2015, 14:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodgerD

Have you done a compression test and a coolant hydrocarbon test? Cheaper and easier than replacing the lump.

Thanks - I've bought and collected the spare lump today

I'm awaiting delivery of one of those tester kits to check for gases in the coolant. I've been given a stack of helpful advice on here about making a leakdown tester so I'll probably do that if test shows combustion gases are present. I don't want to hijack OP's thread- I have one of my own running, but thanks.

bubs · 1st May 2015, 17:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodgerD

Mr RAC man want's sacking, if bottom hose isn't getting hot and top hose is, that isn't a sign of HGF, it's a clear sign of a stuck thermostat. But then it's a Rover, so it must be a HGF, even though on a v6 is not that common.

Repeat the top/ bottom hose test again, if the bottom hose doesn't get hot, then whip out the thermostat and treat the car to a nice new one.

I would agree with the above. if one part of the system is cold while the other is hot there's obviously a blockage and the first place to start would be the 'stat. I would think HGF would by a bi-product of running the engine like that not the cause of it.

archermav · 1st May 2015, 18:02

Thanks again for all the help, I shall try the thermostat and see where we go. Daft question, last time I changed one of these it was just a single metal spinning top item, the link to DMGRS shows the whole assembly pipework, clips etc. Would I be better off getting the whole lot renewed including coolant sensor?

CheeRS.

Ps3000 · 1st May 2015, 18:45

No need to do the coolant sensor unless you know it's duff (in my humble opinion).

But do renew all the pipework in the DMGRS kit - that's what I did.

I know what you mean about expecting it to be a little metal thing, that's what I expected, but you can't change them separately on these (unless you change to a non-OEM housing).

There are some good guides to how to do it on here, too.

archermav · 1st May 2015, 19:02

Excellent to hear, I shall order it as soon as. Thanks.

Ps3000 · 1st May 2015, 19:38

If you're doing the job yourself you need to decide if you're going to do the "keyhole" method where you don't disturb the manifolds, or the full monty where the manifolds come off. If you're taking the manifolds off, you can get new gaskets from Matt (DMGRS).

I took the whole lot off, partly in the hope that the gaskets might be the cause of the problem (they weren't - or at least, changing them didn't solve it).

Also, if taking it all off, beware of the o rings in the injector rails.....they don't like being disturbed.

RodgerD · 2nd May 2015, 00:48

It will be worth re-wrapping the coolant temperature sender wires when your doing the thermostat as the heat in the Vee degrades the plastic trunking.

amblegrumpy · 2nd May 2015, 02:26

Hi,
Forgive me sticking my nose in where it probably isn't wanted - particularly since I'm a new owner and member - but I would definitely agree with RodgerD in that your problem is almost certainly the thermostat stuck shut. True, I haven't done much to my car as yet (and had to seek help from the chaps myself recently) but you can pretty much take it as read that any liquid cooled ICE with a thermostat will exhibit those tendencies described by RodgerD and others. Over probably too many misspent years I have grappled with thermostat failures (Hillman Imp/Bond 875 - ho ho ho) and if the bottom hose doesn't suddenly get warm after a decent time, then it's the thermostat.
It isn't altogether surprising as they are, whilst quite a clever idea, quite crappily made which is reflected in the cheap cost. I tend to renew thermostats whenever I've got a cooling system job to do, even down to just changing a hose - wasteful maybe, but far better than sitting at the side of the road awaiting rescue from the so-called expects of the fourth emergency service.
Also, I notice everybody is going to "PM" each other - I know I'll feel a right *** for asking, but I don't know and the limits of my personal ignorance are a surprise to me daily.....

1st May 2015, 14:09	#12
DMGRS Discount MG Rover Spares Rover 75 CDTi, 2x MG ZS180 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Hythe, Southampton Posts: 11,320 Thanks: 456 Thanked 3,377 Times in 2,027 Posts	If the new cap cures the problem, I'll make sure you're refunded for it. Given that you've changed the cap, I'd be looking towards thermostat next. Again, good luck - I've got my fingers crossed for you. __________________ Your trusted MG Rover specialist! Tel: 02380 001133 / Email: [email protected] We now have a 'chat' function on our site for even quicker replies. Give it a try! Remember - discount code FORUM5 for 5% off

2nd May 2015, 02:26	#20
amblegrumpy Newbie Rover 75 Club SE saloon Rover 75 Connoisseur Tourer Join Date: Feb 2015 Location: Amble Posts: 19 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 2 Posts	Overheating Rover Hi, Forgive me sticking my nose in where it probably isn't wanted - particularly since I'm a new owner and member - but I would definitely agree with RodgerD in that your problem is almost certainly the thermostat stuck shut. True, I haven't done much to my car as yet (and had to seek help from the chaps myself recently) but you can pretty much take it as read that any liquid cooled ICE with a thermostat will exhibit those tendencies described by RodgerD and others. Over probably too many misspent years I have grappled with thermostat failures (Hillman Imp/Bond 875 - ho ho ho) and if the bottom hose doesn't suddenly get warm after a decent time, then it's the thermostat. It isn't altogether surprising as they are, whilst quite a clever idea, quite crappily made which is reflected in the cheap cost. I tend to renew thermostats whenever I've got a cooling system job to do, even down to just changing a hose - wasteful maybe, but far better than sitting at the side of the road awaiting rescue from the so-called expects of the fourth emergency service. Also, I notice everybody is going to "PM" each other - I know I'll feel a right *** for asking, but I don't know and the limits of my personal ignorance are a surprise to me daily.....

1st May 2015, 18:02	#15
archermav Avid contributor Range Rover TDV8 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Wednesbuary Posts: 121 Thanks: 7 Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts	Thanks again for all the help, I shall try the thermostat and see where we go. Daft question, last time I changed one of these it was just a single metal spinning top item, the link to DMGRS shows the whole assembly pipework, clips etc. Would I be better off getting the whole lot renewed including coolant sensor? CheeRS.

1st May 2015, 18:45	#16
Ps3000 Gets stuck in None at moment Join Date: May 2013 Location: Loughborough Posts: 899 Thanks: 230 Thanked 125 Times in 113 Posts	No need to do the coolant sensor unless you know it's duff (in my humble opinion). But do renew all the pipework in the DMGRS kit - that's what I did. I know what you mean about expecting it to be a little metal thing, that's what I expected, but you can't change them separately on these (unless you change to a non-OEM housing). There are some good guides to how to do it on here, too.

1st May 2015, 19:02	#17
archermav Avid contributor Range Rover TDV8 Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Wednesbuary Posts: 121 Thanks: 7 Thanked 10 Times in 8 Posts	Excellent to hear, I shall order it as soon as. Thanks.

1st May 2015, 19:38	#18
Ps3000 Gets stuck in None at moment Join Date: May 2013 Location: Loughborough Posts: 899 Thanks: 230 Thanked 125 Times in 113 Posts	If you're doing the job yourself you need to decide if you're going to do the "keyhole" method where you don't disturb the manifolds, or the full monty where the manifolds come off. If you're taking the manifolds off, you can get new gaskets from Matt (DMGRS). I took the whole lot off, partly in the hope that the gaskets might be the cause of the problem (they weren't - or at least, changing them didn't solve it). Also, if taking it all off, beware of the o rings in the injector rails.....they don't like being disturbed.

2nd May 2015, 00:48	#19
RodgerD Rodger & Out Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: London Posts: 712 Thanks: 10 Thanked 159 Times in 141 Posts	It will be worth re-wrapping the coolant temperature sender wires when your doing the thermostat as the heat in the Vee degrades the plastic trunking.