220bhp+,KV6

GeoffK · 17th May 2015, 13:19

Hi All.
Just a little update on the project. Went to have a look at the heads last week. The chap has done a superb job porting and polishing, the tracts are now dead smooth and about 20% bigger and he's matched the inlets and exhaust manifolds plus he's re shaped the back of the inlet valves and flowed the insides of the inlet manifold stubs, all good stuff.

I've been thinking about setting the cams up and since I can't now use the KV6 cam setting kit because of the new vernier pulleys I'm going for max valve lift for the given crank angle on No1 pot (front left). Obviously the cams will be checked for lift v.s. degree with a dial gauge after setting.

The thing is, number one pot is easy enough but what about the other bank, nearest the rad.

My thought is to setup the next cylinder to fire No 6 (rear right nearest rad) which is, I assume, 360 degrees away from number one making it nice and easy but I welcome any thoughts and suggestions (steady on there, no rude comments please) as I've not dealt with quad cam V lumps without setting tools before.

On a similar topic, setting up standard cams without using the tools. Am I right in thinking that so long as the rear cam pulleys are lined up and locked, and as long as the crank is locked in "safe" position, that should be the correct timing and you don't then need the cam setting kit?? Just a thought.

I'm also doing away with the oil/water intercooler and fitting an oil cooler closeup to the back of the rad, Mocal do nice thin oil coolers although I'm going to research this a bit more.

Cheers

Geoff

minimutly · 17th May 2015, 23:49

Whatever the inlet and exhaust lift you have on overlap at tdc on no1 is what you need on all the other pots. The only difference on the v6 is that you have more tdc's. It's still 720 degrees per bang though.
I would ask the cam manufacturer for full lift timing figures for your new cams (108 degrees?), set the front up bang on this, then measure lift at tdc (using temporary solid lifters, since hydraulics will make this impossible). Then, again using a pair of solid lifters, set up the rear bank.
The problem with setting full lift to degrees is that it's difficult to ensure your dti doesn't jam or get clouted by the cam lobe, even if it doesnt, casting flashes on the cam can move it around on the lifter.
This isn't an engine in car job, in fact I'd do it all with just two Pistons, some soft valve springs and dummy solid lifters before assembling the engine. Make some notes on lift and timing, then build the engine and check it again.

17th May 2015, 13:19	#1
GeoffK Regular poster MG ZT-T Join Date: Dec 2014 Location: Bexhill on Sea Posts: 48 Thanks: 13 Thanked 16 Times in 12 Posts	220bhp+,KV6 Hi All. Just a little update on the project. Went to have a look at the heads last week. The chap has done a superb job porting and polishing, the tracts are now dead smooth and about 20% bigger and he's matched the inlets and exhaust manifolds plus he's re shaped the back of the inlet valves and flowed the insides of the inlet manifold stubs, all good stuff. I've been thinking about setting the cams up and since I can't now use the KV6 cam setting kit because of the new vernier pulleys I'm going for max valve lift for the given crank angle on No1 pot (front left). Obviously the cams will be checked for lift v.s. degree with a dial gauge after setting. The thing is, number one pot is easy enough but what about the other bank, nearest the rad. My thought is to setup the next cylinder to fire No 6 (rear right nearest rad) which is, I assume, 360 degrees away from number one making it nice and easy but I welcome any thoughts and suggestions (steady on there, no rude comments please) as I've not dealt with quad cam V lumps without setting tools before. On a similar topic, setting up standard cams without using the tools. Am I right in thinking that so long as the rear cam pulleys are lined up and locked, and as long as the crank is locked in "safe" position, that should be the correct timing and you don't then need the cam setting kit?? Just a thought. I'm also doing away with the oil/water intercooler and fitting an oil cooler closeup to the back of the rad, Mocal do nice thin oil coolers although I'm going to research this a bit more. Cheers Geoff

17th May 2015, 23:49	#2
minimutly Posted a thing or two mg zt Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: cardigan Posts: 1,087 Thanks: 28 Thanked 187 Times in 158 Posts	Whatever the inlet and exhaust lift you have on overlap at tdc on no1 is what you need on all the other pots. The only difference on the v6 is that you have more tdc's. It's still 720 degrees per bang though. I would ask the cam manufacturer for full lift timing figures for your new cams (108 degrees?), set the front up bang on this, then measure lift at tdc (using temporary solid lifters, since hydraulics will make this impossible). Then, again using a pair of solid lifters, set up the rear bank. The problem with setting full lift to degrees is that it's difficult to ensure your dti doesn't jam or get clouted by the cam lobe, even if it doesnt, casting flashes on the cam can move it around on the lifter. This isn't an engine in car job, in fact I'd do it all with just two Pistons, some soft valve springs and dummy solid lifters before assembling the engine. Make some notes on lift and timing, then build the engine and check it again.