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Old 9th February 2020, 19:02   #321
Dallas
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That subframe! what an incredible transformation.
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MG ZT 190+ V6 - MG TF 135 1.8
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Old 12th February 2020, 00:15   #322
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front sub frame all fitted. I did have to wait another day to lift up into place as I had forgotten to get new dowty seals and o seal for the steering rack hose connections Got them from a local hydraulic firm Monday morning

Sub frame laid under the car ready to be lifted

IMG_20200209_162616 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

IMG_20200209_162629 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

Then to lift it in place I used a car jack at the rear and built up with wooden blocks at the front. Doing it by myself so no extra pair of hands available

This photo is not the best but you get the idea

IMG_20200210_152751 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

Before I was close to lifting it in position but still had access I connected the hydraulic pipes to the steering rack. I take it that in normal circumstances the subframe needs dropping at the rear to get the rack off

Hydraulic hoses connected whilst I had access

IMG_20200210_150624 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

The hose from the steering cooler was then bolted back onto the subframe with new fastenings.

IMG_20200210_161527 by Jon Christie, on Flickr


once fully up in position I did up all the mounting bolts (all renewed) hand tight, Checked the steering rack drive was sat correctly in the footwell and bolted up the cooling pipe up to the front of subframe mounting points.
I actually used these 2 x points on the front of the subframe to help alignment whilst lifting into position.

the subframe mounts x 6 were then fully fitted and torqued (115Nm) and the subframe is now in position.

Drivers side

IMG_20200210_163729 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

Passenger side

IMG_20200210_163803 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

From underneath looking towards the rear

IMG_20200210_163931 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

Finally the set up ready to receive hubs and struts

IMG_20200210_164920 by Jon Christie, on Flickr
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Old 12th February 2020, 00:21   #323
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Some minor jobs completed this evening as i only had an hour or so.

Headlamp level sensor fitted and connected electrically. This was a bit of faff to be honest as the M6 threaded hole was knackered but I had not noticed when working on the subframe. I had to take the hole up to M8 but there was enough material to give a decent fastening.

IMG_20200211_194625 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

And the wheel arches were fastened back in and the ABS and brake wear sensors reconnected

IMG_20200211_201208 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

IMG_20200211_204733 by Jon Christie, on Flickr

Next up hubs and struts
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252nd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023
101st ZT in Solar Red (code: CEU) to be made out of 1,888
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Old 15th February 2020, 23:52   #324
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You need to move away from the coast!!

Lovely work, I take my hat off to you.
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Old 15th February 2020, 23:53   #325
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Hi Jon. I really admire what you have achieved with this rebuild. It is something I keep saying to myself I would like to do. I have a garage but it is not attached to the property (council garage) and have no electric.The repairs or replacement I do have to be done on my front drive, or outside the garage because it is not big enough to work inside it. The weather is another blight on the parade at the moment. But well done and thanks for posting up this epic..
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Old 17th February 2020, 19:45   #326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trikey View Post
You need to move away from the coast!!

Lovely work, I take my hat off to you.
Thanks mate appreciate the comments. To be honest we don't suffer too much corrosion outside the norm here. I suspect being stuck between the coast and the Moors helps.

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Originally Posted by bl52krz View Post
Hi Jon. I really admire what you have achieved with this rebuild. It is something I keep saying to myself I would like to do. I have a garage but it is not attached to the property (council garage) and have no electric.The repairs or replacement I do have to be done on my front drive, or outside the garage because it is not big enough to work inside it. The weather is another blight on the parade at the moment. But well done and thanks for posting up this epic..
Very kind mate. Yea I wouldn't want to do some of the jobs on a drive or the road. Having a garage makes it a lot easier.
I thought about posting this mamoth restoration thread so it might help others with the car being stripped. Also it gives me a decent historical line for the car

Appreciate your comments
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Living the dream

MK IV VVTI Tiptronic TT Toyota Supra
MG ZT 190+
BornTuesday, 10th July 2001 @ 09:01:10
259th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894
252nd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023
101st ZT in Solar Red (code: CEU) to be made out of 1,888
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Old 17th February 2020, 20:24   #327
The Mighty Quinn
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonc3725 View Post
Thanks mate appreciate the comments. To be honest we don't suffer too much corrosion outside the norm here. I suspect being stuck between the coast and the Moors helps.



Very kind mate. Yea I wouldn't want to do some of the jobs on a drive or the road. Having a garage makes it a lot easier.
I thought about posting this mamoth restoration thread so it might help others with the car being stripped. Also it gives me a decent historical line for the car

Appreciate your comments


Incredible work, Jon. All the pics really help bring the project to life (and can act as a useful aid to the rest of us).

Quick question if I may - All of my rear suspension/brakes etc. is new (fitted by my mechanic). But now I'm going round all the wheel arches etc. tackling surface rust and rust-proofing and so on - in a similar, though much less involved, way as yourself

Having had a look underneath at the rear, it looks at though I'll need to drop the tank and subframe to tackle all the surface corrosion at work about those areas. So, is it a big job to drop the rear suspension (I have a garage and a pit, thankfully). Or, is it as simple as removing the top 4 strut nuts, then undoing the 4 subframe bolts and the 6 trailing arm bolts - to drop everything? Shouldn't have to deal with any seized nuts/bolts (as these are all new ).

Might have to invest in a gearbox trolley to support all once it's worked loose..


Cheers,
Karl.
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Old 17th February 2020, 23:19   #328
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mighty Quinn View Post
Incredible work, Jon. All the pics really help bring the project to life (and can act as a useful aid to the rest of us).

Quick question if I may - All of my rear suspension/brakes etc. is new (fitted by my mechanic). But now I'm going round all the wheel arches etc. tackling surface rust and rust-proofing and so on - in a similar, though much less involved, way as yourself

Having had a look underneath at the rear, it looks at though I'll need to drop the tank and subframe to tackle all the surface corrosion at work about those areas. So, is it a big job to drop the rear suspension (I have a garage and a pit, thankfully). Or, is it as simple as removing the top 4 strut nuts, then undoing the 4 subframe bolts and the 6 trailing arm bolts - to drop everything? Shouldn't have to deal with any seized nuts/bolts (as these are all new ).

Might have to invest in a gearbox trolley to support all once it's worked loose..


Cheers,
Karl.
Hi Karl.

First thing off would be the exhaust back to the Cat to allow the subframe and fuel tank strap to drop.

I would take off the calipers and place/hang to one side to keep the calipers and hoses safe.

Next I would disconnect the ABS plugs and wires sensor and leave the leads hanging but place our the way of harm's way. If the suspension has just been done then you could then remove the abs sensors.

Rear subframe wise it's really down to you on how you remove. When I took the old one off my car I took off the brake discs and hubs But I suppose you could leave them on.

I would leave the struts where they are and disconnect them on the bottom bolt.

I would then undo the trailing arm bolts. Your mechanic should have done a geometry alignment to make sure the rear wheels were running correct so mark carefully where the trailing arm plates sit

The main subframe is held on the 4 x main bolts. These are supposed to be replaced after use. That's up to you.

The subframe is quite light without the hubs and brake discs but I imagine these will make it heavier.

I lowered my subframe on a car jack as I was working off stands. The one thing to be weary of is getting the centre of balance.

The fuel tank can be dropped by undoing the 4 x strap bolts. Again the tank will be as heavy or light depending of fuel quantity. Again because I was working off stands I dropped the tank onto a couple of wooden pads so I didn't stretch the attached lines and cable. On a ramp you may want to make something up to drop the tank onto or disconnect all the attachments.

Bolting the subframe on was a bit tedious lining it up because I was working by myself.

I was pleasantly surprised by the lack of rust to be honest. Every spot weld had surface corrosion and where the fuel tank rubs the seat base. There was nothing nasty and having worked on this area on other British cars I have normally had to weld plate back in so MRG did a good job with these chassis.

Thanks for your comments and hope the pictures help. Let me know if you need more info/explanation.

Cheers

Jon
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Living the dream

MK IV VVTI Tiptronic TT Toyota Supra
MG ZT 190+
BornTuesday, 10th July 2001 @ 09:01:10
259th ZT to run off the production line, out of 18,894
252nd ZT 190 + to be made out of 4,023
101st ZT in Solar Red (code: CEU) to be made out of 1,888
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Old 18th February 2020, 21:47   #329
The Mighty Quinn
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Ok, maybe not quite as straightforward as I seemed to be suggesting...


But thanks very much for explaining in such detail Jon - I think I should be able to manage the most of that.


Much obliged,
Karl.
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