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20th May 2018, 09:28 | #1 |
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Airbag warning light **Update - Fixed**
Hello again.
So after failing yesterday on one fix on my car, thought I'd set about trying to establish why the airbag light is on. I tried removing the seat base bolts to get to the electrical connections and they wouldn't budge either. I had a T50 tor bit that was too small really, and a T55 that was too big to fit...am I missing something or is there another tool it I should be investing in? Thanks Last edited by crussell; 30th May 2018 at 17:32.. |
20th May 2018, 11:26 | #2 |
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Most people use Torx T 50 however the correct size is actually Ribe 8, normally torx T 50 will work tho.
What you may find however as I have found more times than I care to remember from dismantling, is that somebody may have put the wrong size torx in before then used a rattle gun and started to round them off. Be very careful not to round them off, I always start with the front two bolts then send the chair as far forward as possible and get the back straight up to do the rears. Mick
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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] T4 Owner Jobs done : new UBP, Spy hole mod, Rear hub(wheel bearing),plenum cleaned and emptied, Inline thermostat fitted,Full service, In car Digital tv/DVD Bluetooth Satnav etc, Replaced UBP, Restored headlights,Fixed airbag connection.replaced HP pump,replaced rear light seals,changed intercooler O rings. Jobs to do: ,replace drivers lock,.[/SIZE] |
20th May 2018, 12:52 | #3 |
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Don't forget you can reach the airbag under seat plugs without removing the seat , just unplug and plug back in a few times using some switch cleaner and it often dos the trick, make sure you do both sides
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20th May 2018, 17:46 | #4 |
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Thanks guys. Think your right, I used a t50 and it slipped. ..didn't try again. Disconnected and put together the connection a few times this afternoon, was surprised how minute the connections are. Going to snip it off and butt connect tomorrow see if that works thanks
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20th May 2018, 17:51 | #5 |
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Torx plus 50 or Ribe 8 are the best bits for removal
Torx 50, Ribe 8, Torx plus 50 |
21st May 2018, 08:55 | #6 |
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I'll bear that in mind thanks
Think I'm gonna try cutting them and connecting them first. Should the battery be disconnected or will it be OK if I haven't driven it for 24 hours? |
21st May 2018, 10:49 | #7 |
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By the book the battery should be disconnected for 20 mins before doing anything with the connectors. Don't forget a problem with the seat belt pre-tensioner wiring can bring the airbag light up as well.
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21st May 2018, 16:48 | #8 |
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Hmm I'll check that out too, thanks. Would disconnecting the fuse have the same effect? As in, remove live to the circuit without having to disconnect the battery and lose my radio code?
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21st May 2018, 22:04 | #9 | |
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Quote:
There is a Technical Bulletin (TB0133 issue2 dated 27/08/2004) on the subject. With the seat removed, a simple bit of re-routing and a cable tie should fix the problem - and at the the same time you can check out the contacts and put a little Vasoline on them to enhance pin contact longer term (the pins on the smaller plugs are gold plated so corrosion shouldn't be an issue). IMVHO that is a far better solution than chopping off the connectors (which are a very good design anyway - they just get a rather bad press for the vexing SRS light issues that regularly appear on here). Keep it OEM I say. Last edited by rab60bit; 21st May 2018 at 22:07.. |
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22nd May 2018, 18:39 | #10 |
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Thanks very much for that into
I'll locate that bulletin and have a read... I was about to post on here because I tried the disconnect the fuse bit tonight to no avail. All the connectors were not mounted on the frame so looks like someone's been there before. I removed a bit of the trim near the door and found the carpet to be wet and water in the floor of the car...v annoyed cos I think I've been sold a did and I've just spent a fortune getting all the belts done and service thinking the airbag light would be a quick fix I guess the next step is to get the interior out, dry it and check the impact sensors?? |
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