Cam sensor woes

Howie666 · 12th May 2018, 14:22

Hello everyone,
I am having a frustrating time with the Raptor. I believe the Cam sensor has given up the ghost. She starts from cold perfectly, every time.
When hot, she starts about 50% of the time (if I'm lucky!)
I sent for a replacement sensor, reasoning that I could remove the old one, plug in the new one and away we go.
Only I can't because they changed the design and the cable on the old one doesn't fit the new sensor

I have looked, and it doesn't seem to be possible to buy the cable separately.
Any help gratefully received as always.
Cheerio

Howie666 · 13th May 2018, 00:13

So my question is, does anyone sell the cable separately?

gazcaz · 13th May 2018, 07:16

This page might be helpful.

https://www.google.com/search?q=m+zt...EIRzAD#imgrc=_

sworks · 13th May 2018, 13:21

Were there not two kinds of crank sensor, one with an extension lead or have I mixed that up with the cam sensor? Have they sent the correct part, maybe worth a look on Rimmers page

Dorset Bob · 13th May 2018, 14:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by Howie666

So my question is, does anyone sell the cable separately?

I had the same problem, when I changed mine and had to get a link lead.

The Part no is YSB002450

It is underneath Item 7 here

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001630
as not illustrated, as the line drawing shows the earlier type with the integral lead.

Dorset Bob · 13th May 2018, 14:57

Quote:

Originally Posted by sworks

Were there not two kinds of crank sensor, one with an extension lead or have I mixed that up with the cam sensor? Have they sent the correct part, maybe worth a look on Rimmers page

Yes you are correct Mark.
The earlier type had the integrated lead and the later type didn't.

The early type was NLA when I looked, but looks a much better quality item, IMHO.

These are the two types.

My link lead for the later type was made in place well known for engine components.

Howie666 · 14th May 2018, 11:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by gazcaz

This page might be helpful.

https://www.google.com/search?q=m+zt...EIRzAD#imgrc=_

Thanks, I already exhausted my googling trying to find the lead separately, hence my posting on here.

Howie666 · 14th May 2018, 11:31

Quote:

Originally Posted by Dorset Bob

I had the same problem, when I changed mine and had to get a link lead.

The Part no is YSB002450

It is underneath Item 7 here

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001630
as not illustrated, as the line drawing shows the earlier type with the integral lead.

Thank you for the very useful pointer. I just jumped onto eBay and there was a lead, I have bought it!
Now for the fun of removing the old one...

Dorset Bob · 14th May 2018, 12:13

You will be fine.
It is just one bolt that holds the sensor in (8mm IIRC) and then it just pulls out. Also, the connectors only snap on one way.

Howie666 · 16th May 2018, 12:38

So I bit the bullet and went to replace the Cam sensor. Fiddly but achievable, even for me. Just one problem -she won't start with the new sensor

I cleaned the gunk off the old one and replaced it. The car starts from cold again, but still refuses to start when the engine is hot.
Does anyone have a solution to this problem please?
PS, please don't direct me to Google. It really isn't particularly useful.

12th May 2018, 14:22	#1
Howie666 I really should get out more....... MG ZT 190+, Trophy Blue Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Preston Posts: 2,067 Thanks: 1,401 Thanked 309 Times in 195 Posts	Cam sensor woes Hello everyone, I am having a frustrating time with the Raptor. I believe the Cam sensor has given up the ghost. She starts from cold perfectly, every time. When hot, she starts about 50% of the time (if I'm lucky!) I sent for a replacement sensor, reasoning that I could remove the old one, plug in the new one and away we go. Only I can't because they changed the design and the cable on the old one doesn't fit the new sensor I have looked, and it doesn't seem to be possible to buy the cable separately. Any help gratefully received as always. Cheerio __________________ Commission Number 352 To do list: 1. Reversing sensors 1a. Headlights polished - DONE! (Magic Mike ) 2. Auto dip rear view mirror 3. Seats replaced - DONE! (thank you Mischief) 7. Bodywork repainted 8. Inlet manifold changed for a working one - DONE! (Magic Mike )

13th May 2018, 00:13	#2
Howie666 I really should get out more....... MG ZT 190+, Trophy Blue Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Preston Posts: 2,067 Thanks: 1,401 Thanked 309 Times in 195 Posts	So my question is, does anyone sell the cable separately? __________________ Commission Number 352 To do list: 1. Reversing sensors 1a. Headlights polished - DONE! (Magic Mike ) 2. Auto dip rear view mirror 3. Seats replaced - DONE! (thank you Mischief) 7. Bodywork repainted 8. Inlet manifold changed for a working one - DONE! (Magic Mike )

13th May 2018, 07:16	#3
gazcaz I really should get out more....... MG ZT Join Date: Nov 2014 Location: Worthing Posts: 2,744 Thanks: 3,944 Thanked 576 Times in 471 Posts	This page might be helpful. https://www.google.com/search?q=m+zt...EIRzAD#imgrc=_ __________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] MG ZT 2.5 V6 234th of 2,834 Trophy Blue ZT 190 + Saloons Produced 14th of 27 MG ZTs Produced on 27-09-2001

13th May 2018, 13:21	#4
sworks Been absent for a while… Rover 75 Tourer, Classic mini Cooper S, Abarth 595 competizione, MG TF and a Hyundai Tucson PHEV Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Cumbria Posts: 13,065 Thanks: 1,033 Thanked 1,686 Times in 1,040 Posts	Were there not two kinds of crank sensor, one with an extension lead or have I mixed that up with the cam sensor? Have they sent the correct part, maybe worth a look on Rimmers page __________________ ................................................. 'Marmite' Possibly one of the most famous 75 tourers produced! left the production line as the last of only Three Rover 75 tourers produced in Trophy Yellow. 48 hours later Longbridge closed. The last sold ordered 75 Tourer. Paid for by the Phoenix Four and handed over by John Towers to the Warwickshire Northampton Air ambulance service as a Rapid Response vehicle Last edited by sworks; 13th May 2018 at 13:24..

14th May 2018, 12:13	#9
Dorset Bob Senior Citizen Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur SE,Chrysler 300C,124 Spider, Daytona 955i,Honda XL250 & Royal Enfield 650GT Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: The Kingdom of Wessex Posts: 6,976 Thanks: 2,391 Thanked 2,685 Times in 1,686 Posts	You will be fine. It is just one bolt that holds the sensor in (8mm IIRC) and then it just pulls out. Also, the connectors only snap on one way. __________________ Let the good times roll............

16th May 2018, 12:38	#10
Howie666 I really should get out more....... MG ZT 190+, Trophy Blue Join Date: Nov 2009 Location: Preston Posts: 2,067 Thanks: 1,401 Thanked 309 Times in 195 Posts	So I bit the bullet and went to replace the Cam sensor. Fiddly but achievable, even for me. Just one problem -she won't start with the new sensor I cleaned the gunk off the old one and replaced it. The car starts from cold again, but still refuses to start when the engine is hot. Does anyone have a solution to this problem please? PS, please don't direct me to Google. It really isn't particularly useful. __________________ Commission Number 352 To do list: 1. Reversing sensors 1a. Headlights polished - DONE! (Magic Mike ) 2. Auto dip rear view mirror 3. Seats replaced - DONE! (thank you Mischief) 7. Bodywork repainted 8. Inlet manifold changed for a working one - DONE! (Magic Mike )

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