Hardcore rust proofing. ;) Lordy style. ;)

[Lordy]

Hiya all How's everybody doing as we all love our cars and we want too preserve them I though I'd share some of my rust proofing story.

As you all know last year I went quite extreme with it and I did every single panel and behind it too went ott ut so far not a single spec of rust, how ever I'm still not 100% satisfied.

All the rest of the car is done just the underneath I haven't finished it off yet.
I've has red oxide three coats since last year and I'm happy too say none of its flaked off which is great, Still with the underneath of the car exposed too salt grit road debris etc I still want too do even more and I will

Been too BNQ today and bought myself a tin of Layland Trade Anti Corrosive paint, Red oxide does just that as well but I want too add more thickness and coats for even more greater protection.

then I'll use my favourite Gravitex stone chip protector like have done everywhere else, then red oxide again and more coats of the layland trade paint in the colour I'm after other coat of Gravitex and then I can finally do other coat of red oxide and then I can paint it in any colour of my choosing.

I don't think it will rust in a very long time did the same in the inside.
Its almost bomb proof and extreme.

Anyone got any story's of there rust proofing of there cars happy here what other great ideas that people have though up in the past, shame we can't use old engine oil, then again environmental health would get us for that.

[Lordy]

Other idea came up with while I was at the store.

Was thinking of using this has a final coat, paint used for garage floors, strong very durable and doesn't break away as easily.

Hard as a stone.



If I could get it in blue that's what I'll use.

Sorry if I;m doing spelling mistakes blame the keyboard its almost beeped and whacking every button like a game of wack a mole.

[AndyN01]

Great photos and some serious work.

Maybe worth having a look at "POR 15" which gets some very good reviews:

https://www.por15.com/

Andy.

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by AndyN01

Great photos and some serious work.

Maybe worth having a look at "POR 15" which gets some very good reviews:

https://www.por15.com/

Andy.

Cheers for the link nice one I'll have a look at this and see what its like and Buy it.

Glad you enjoyed the photos.

Got more here of the my 75/ZT which I'm now missing very much.
That's when I used wax oil, I've stopped using it now as its not good as it use to be as a Rust deterrent in my oppion your almost guaranteeing rust as its traps and its not breathable so all the moisture is being kept in one place.

so started looking at other means last year came with my own and ideas I've found on the web and came up with this.

If this Ford rusts I'm going too be pee off as its cost a lot of money and more when I start it again.

When I buy other 75/ZT it will be the exact same thing.
Just hope this works.

[Lordy]

Anyone else used any other anti rust related products?

Happy too hear any other suggestions people have in mind.
There so many out there and when you start reading you really get into it.

So many different methods Thought I'd mix it up a bit.

[Comfortably Numb]

I too am not impressed with Waxoyl/Schutz, as you say, it flakes off anything but a clean metal or pre-painted surface. I took a heavy duty, circular wire brush on my angle grinder to the rear chassis of my 4x4, got it mostly down to bare metal , and gave it 2 coats of some old, green Hammerite I used to paint the kids' swing frame with 20 years ago! Hammerite washes clean very easily, so you can quickly see if it has deteriorated or come off, and touch in if needed. I did the wheelarches with black, but defects are less obvious, so not as good.

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by Comfortably Numb

I too am not impressed with Waxoyl/Schutz, as you say, it flakes off anything but a clean metal or pre-painted surface. I took a heavy duty, circular wire brush on my angle grinder to the rear chassis of my 4x4, got it mostly down to bare metal , and gave it 2 coats of some old, green Hammerite I used to paint the kids' swing frame with 20 years ago! Hammerite washes clean very easily, so you can quickly see if it has deteriorated or come off, and touch in if needed. I did the wheelarches with black, but defects are less obvious, so not as good.

As I was the same as my dad I swore by it for many years but after seeing my mates car after he grinded it down oh my was it hiding a dirty secret.

After that I'll never ever use it again.

Hammerite and red oxide I personally rather use that and what ever you can coat with as well that stone chip protector is over paintable which is what I like that I means I can still add by layer without it reacting badly with normal paint.

Its good stuff and does last.

Wanted too ask you have a read of this I've been thinking about using a industrial floor paint as my final coat after its all completed.

I'm just not too sure.

My theory is that industrial floors are strong and made of concrete and this paint has too stick too that plus industrial vehicles on site the paint is going too have put up a lot and my eyes that's great as our cars get everything from road debris and stone chips.

It shouldn't flake off as easily.

Supercoat Polyurethane Heavy Duty High Impact Floor
Product performance outline:
To be suitable for use on factory floors industrial floor paints must generally be tough and resistant enough to withstand:-

• The abrasion and wear that will take place i.e. from fork lifts, pallet trucks,cars,4X4 plus other vehicle movements across the factory floor.

• The static loading that is imposed on the painted factory floor surface by pallet stacking in storage, or other equipment on the floor


• Most liquid or chemical spillages that may occur on the floor i.e. Water, oils,Cutting Agents,Soft acid cleaning agents,wheel/brake cleaners,engine coolant,brake fluids some fuel's etc that are used in the processes carried out on the painted floor.

• (do not leave these to sit on the area coated they must be removed and not left to soak into the area,they will with stand the spill but not for long periods of time)

Most factory floors are reinforced concrete floors and this must obviously have sufficient strength to support all of these loadings and uses.
The functions of the industrial floor paint are:
- to strengthen and improve the factory floor surface
- to eliminate dust build up on surface (pre seal primer coating is always advised on dusty unpainted areas before a topcoat is applied)
- to increase the floors abrasion and wear resistance
- to provide the increased additional chemical resistance
- to improve the appearance and ambience of the working environment
-to speed up the cleaning/mopping of the area cutting down on time of this task and also to help combat dust issues on stock and surface contamination
- to delineate specific areas, such as: safe walking areas, parking bays or access routes and other directions etc.

[vacuman]

On my Probe the sun roof rusting from the inside out was the problem. in time I think you might find rust at the bottom of the A pillar etc. Have you also proofed the inside of the door skins, sills, box sections, tailgate and scuttle?

[Lordy]

Originally Posted by vacuman

On my Probe the sun roof rusting from the inside out was the problem. in time I think you might find rust at the bottom of the A pillar etc. Have you also proofed the inside of the door skins, sills, box sections, tailgate and scuttle?

The sunroof is the big problem plus the drain tubes too, just like the 75/ZT plenums they get blocked and that's where the rust starts forming.

I had take the whole thing at one stage too clean them out completely it was bad.

I've done the whole lot, just the roof Is the one I've not touched in terms of paint.

[EastPete]

My current approach for chassis/underbody parts is to treat the bare metal (or metal treated with a rust convertor) with two coats of Bondaprimer - this is supposed to be pretty tough stuff, and it supposedly used on North Sea oil rigs. I then top coat with Tetrosyl Chassis Black - this leaves a very tough, shiny finish that is very chip resistant and can be wiped/washed clean quite easily.

Pete