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20th August 2016, 08:21 | #21 | ||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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Loss of coolant
Quote:
I've already told you "what to fix" here: Quote:
You say that the car's been "serviced by a Rover mechanic". There seem to be a lot of these all over the country and the majority don't know about this correct MGR procedure because they either don't have RAVE or haven't read it, and why would they? The assumption is made that the KV6 is no different from any other engine. You also said that TS Autos has investigated. Ask Terry if he did what I suggested, including the all-important raising of the expansion tank. I bet he didn't. It's up to you David. If you let garages take your engine to pieces before carrying out the basics, you are asking for trouble, and a lot of it. The basics are bleeding, 'O' ring leakage, expansion cap, radiator fan, silted heater matrix and in rare cases, thermostat failure. Simon
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20th August 2016, 09:11 | #22 |
This is my second home
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So the symptoms are... the engine is overheating, the fan doesn't trigger, and the engine is loosing water somewhere, but no signs of external water leak.
I'm not sure if anyone has covered this... When you start the car from cold, take the expansion cap off, leave engine running and make sure the water level remains constant, or does the water instantly rise? Is the car blowing white smoke from the exhaust during this warm weather? Is there water flow coming out of the small bleed/overflow hole in the neck of the expansion bottle? |
20th August 2016, 09:14 | #23 |
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my coolant was doing same then i bled system as per instructions and 4 days later its still perfect and over 100 miles
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20th August 2016, 11:05 | #24 | |||
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After that get the car up temperature using the on board computer go to 19 then 7 again no A/C on and watch temp once it reaches 100c the fan should kick in and bring the temp down to 95c if so then the fan is working as it should. Also I would follow Simons advice and drain the system completely yourself then refill according to the MGR procedure here. this is only going to cost you time a little coolant, check that the O-rings on the coolant header tank are also in good condition and not flat.
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Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise " |
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20th August 2016, 12:16 | #25 |
This is my second home
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It makes no sense to drain the system, unless you really want to change all the coolant.
And generally, the talk about the fan is well meaning and interesting but in this case pointless. If the fan comes on, and it seems it does without question!, the car should not overheat. Full stop! So the main issue was, remains and will continue to be: a loss of water or maybe trapped air. Concentrate on finding the leak.
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20th August 2016, 13:43 | #26 |
I really should get out more.......
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David,
Please pm your phone number and I will bleed your system for you either at your house or my workshop for free! Tom.
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20th August 2016, 15:38 | #27 |
I really should get out more.......
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20th August 2016, 19:35 | #28 | ||
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Quote:
That looks to be correct I must have put the wrong top on the control box, I have just been out and checked the fans I have, and the four wire 3 speed fan as KV6 on it for sure. I took pics of all the control boxes and wiring but I will refrain from posting them here as it will not help the OP with his coolant loss, maybe start another thread up which control boxes relate to which fan and car etc hopefully getting it right this time Arctic. . PS Quote:
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21st August 2016, 18:35 | #29 | |
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David I have sent you an e.mail Regards Gavin |
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16th September 2016, 10:03 | #30 |
Gets stuck in
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Gavin had the car up on a lift and did a pretty comprehensive inspection the other day. No coolant in oil. Rubber tube at front of engine bay soft. Rag fitted under heater matrix for several days to check for coolant loss. Everything plum normal, not a squeak of coolant. Correct procedure followed to fill coolant. Conclusion: having eliminated all other sources of a leak, change header tank cap. Replaced with genuine OEM.
A few days and 100 miles later, with engine cold (I always check at least 24hrs after last drive) there's a hiss of air as I unscrew the coolant cap and the header is now empty again...... |
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