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Old 20th August 2016, 08:21   #21
SD1too
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Default Loss of coolant

Quote:
Originally Posted by Forestgreen View Post
As for the leak, I guess either (i) I just have to keep topping up ... or (ii) I take it to someone who can have the thing stripped right down.
Is there a definitive sequence of investigations that a garage could pinpoint the leak over the course of a day ie pressure testing, checking each cylinder for HGF, etc etc, so that by the end of the day I know exactly what to fix?
Yes David, that's the answer, make life as complicated and expensive as you can. Why do the simple things, which so often turn out to be successful, when you can give a garage an opportunity to make some cash out of you?

I've already told you "what to fix" here:
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Originally Posted by SD1too View Post
Regarding your coolant problem, I would drain the system completely yourself then refill according to the MGR procedure here. You need only minimal tools to do this and you will then know that it's been done properly.
Those members who have followed this simple procedure exactly have very often found that it's an end to their problems. If not, at least they know that the system has been bled properly and can then move on.
You say that the car's been "serviced by a Rover mechanic". There seem to be a lot of these all over the country and the majority don't know about this correct MGR procedure because they either don't have RAVE or haven't read it, and why would they? The assumption is made that the KV6 is no different from any other engine. You also said that TS Autos has investigated. Ask Terry if he did what I suggested, including the all-important raising of the expansion tank. I bet he didn't.

It's up to you David. If you let garages take your engine to pieces before carrying out the basics, you are asking for trouble, and a lot of it. The basics are bleeding, 'O' ring leakage, expansion cap, radiator fan, silted heater matrix and in rare cases, thermostat failure.

Simon
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Old 20th August 2016, 09:11   #22
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So the symptoms are... the engine is overheating, the fan doesn't trigger, and the engine is loosing water somewhere, but no signs of external water leak.

I'm not sure if anyone has covered this...
When you start the car from cold, take the expansion cap off, leave engine running and make sure the water level remains constant, or does the water instantly rise?

Is the car blowing white smoke from the exhaust during this warm weather?

Is there water flow coming out of the small bleed/overflow hole in the neck of the expansion bottle?
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Old 20th August 2016, 09:14   #23
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my coolant was doing same then i bled system as per instructions and 4 days later its still perfect and over 100 miles
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Old 20th August 2016, 11:05   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forestgreen View Post
Arctic, can't thank you enough. Did you seriously take off your bumper and first remove the fan then refit it and shoot the test just for me, or was it already in your car????
David.
The fan was one the spare ones I have for fitting at the nano etc, I have one of each engine model, in the form of both resistor and none resistor, the video of the one on the car is mine fitted tears ago.

Quote:
I think (99% sure) that the volume in both "speeds" tested using the T4 is the louder, faster volume. Maybe a resistor problem or a wiring problem? It's a one year old "Jules gold resistor" fitted by Terry so the odds of either happening are pretty remote.
You could do with making sure of this even though Terry as fitted the part, items can go wrong, do the demist test all A/C with engine ticking over press demist only and see if the fan runs continually, if so the low speed is working.

After that get the car up temperature using the on board computer go to 19 then 7 again no A/C on and watch temp once it reaches 100c the fan should kick in and bring the temp down to 95c if so then the fan is working as it should.

Also I would follow Simons advice and drain the system completely yourself then refill according to the MGR procedure here. this is only going to cost you time a little coolant, check that the O-rings on the coolant header tank are also in good condition and not flat.
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Old 20th August 2016, 12:16   #25
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It makes no sense to drain the system, unless you really want to change all the coolant.

And generally, the talk about the fan is well meaning and interesting but in this case pointless. If the fan comes on, and it seems it does without question!, the car should not overheat. Full stop!

So the main issue was, remains and will continue to be: a loss of water or maybe trapped air.



Concentrate on finding the leak.
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Old 20th August 2016, 13:43   #26
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David,

Please pm your phone number and I will bleed your system for you either at your house or my workshop for free!

Tom.
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Old 20th August 2016, 15:38   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctic View Post

SRB2 control box for the 2.5/2.0 petrol engines Fig 11
11
Steve,
I thought the SRB2 control box was only on the 1.8's, at least everyone i have seen on a 1.8 is SRB2 but the KV6 fans have always had KV6 printed on the control box?
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Old 20th August 2016, 19:35   #28
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Originally Posted by Phil-T4 View Post
Steve,
I thought the SRB2 control box was only on the 1.8's, at least everyone i have seen on a 1.8 is SRB2 but the KV6 fans have always had KV6 printed on the control box?
Hi Phil.
That looks to be correct I must have put the wrong top on the control box, I have just been out and checked the fans I have, and the four wire 3 speed fan as KV6 on it for sure.

I took pics of all the control boxes and wiring but I will refrain from posting them here as it will not help the OP with his coolant loss, maybe start another thread up which control boxes relate to which fan and car etc hopefully getting it right this time Arctic.
.

PS
Quote:
David,

Please pm your phone number and I will bleed your system for you either at your house or my workshop for free!

Tom.
That as to be an offer you can't refuse and if Tom wants any help he can drop me a line or phone number
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Old 21st August 2016, 18:35   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Forestgreen View Post
Exactly a year ago my engine overheat light came on whilst going up the motorway and I discovered a substantial loss of coolant, traced to a faulty three year old) thermostat. I had that replaced, and had a low speed fan Jules gold resistor at the same time as the low speed resistor was caput.

Some months later a new coolant loss. Eventually we tracked down that the water pump had a slow leak. Given that the cambelts were due the end of this year I brought that forward and had new belts and pump fitted last month. For a few days following I checked the coolant levels and all seemed fine so I stopped the daily checks.

Until yesterday when the red overheat light came on again. I topped up the engine with a litre of coolant once it had cooled down, which seemed to be enough to take it to the maximum setting in the filler expansion tank. But a few hours and fifteen miles later I checked and the level had dropped right down - I ended up putting a further litre in.

I had the car examined thoroughly today but we couldn't find a trace of a leak anywhere. No coolant in the "V", nothing under the new water pump. The rubber pipes weren't corroded (so unlikely to be oil cooler) and there was no emulsion or mayo in the header (so not head gasket I hope). Oh, and I have a new coolant filler cap as the previous one did have an issue with the O rings, so hard to see how coolant could be escaping through it.

The only thing we did find, on T4-ing the car, was that we couldn't activate the low speed fan, and that the middle and high speed tests sounded exactly the same. I only have a two speed fan so I don't know if it is supposed to do nothing on the low speed T4 test, but surely there should have been some difference in sound between medium and high speed? Could the control or the resistor be faulty? On letting the car idle, the fan kicked in at high speed at 101 degrees. Normal temperature (after topping up yesterday) is around 93 degrees, rising to no more than 101 when idling at traffic lights.

So it seems I have a leak somewhere, and a fan problem. But I'm lost as to the source of the leak, and the nature of the fan problem. I could jhust keep topping up with coolant, but that doesn't really solve the problem, so I would welcome any suggestions for what to look for next, as I need a reliable car for work and can't afford for the Rover to break down or to be off the road any length of time.

David I have sent you an e.mail
Regards
Gavin
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Old 16th September 2016, 10:03   #30
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Gavin had the car up on a lift and did a pretty comprehensive inspection the other day. No coolant in oil. Rubber tube at front of engine bay soft. Rag fitted under heater matrix for several days to check for coolant loss. Everything plum normal, not a squeak of coolant. Correct procedure followed to fill coolant. Conclusion: having eliminated all other sources of a leak, change header tank cap. Replaced with genuine OEM.

A few days and 100 miles later, with engine cold (I always check at least 24hrs after last drive) there's a hiss of air as I unscrew the coolant cap and the header is now empty again......
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