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Old 21st May 2018, 21:46   #1
Alanbp
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Default 2002 CDT Tourer Steering Wheel Vibration

I can't seem to eliminate the steering wheel vibration at idle from my CDT. So far I have replaced the lower mount and the hydromount with new stock from DMGRS and tighted the steering column adjustment lever but no improvement. I also get a harsh vibration eminating from the engine bay when I accelerate up a hill with a full load in the car, if I back off the pedal, it eases. I also replaced the crank pulley with a freelander spec one from DMGRS! When the engine is cold and in drive at lights etc the whole wheel is a noisy blur!! On the move - smooth and silent.

What are the symptoms of a worn gearbox mount, mind you as there was virtually no improvement after changing the other 2 mounts, I wouldn't be hopeful to get any major improvment from changing that!

Even if I change the steering column I can still see it shaking but maybe without as much noise.

Is this an inbuilt design issue or has anyone truly solved this?

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Alan
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Old 21st May 2018, 22:46   #2
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I believe it is possible to adjust the idle speed with T4, which may take it out of the vibration zone.
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Old 21st May 2018, 22:57   #3
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I believe it is possible to adjust the idle speed with T4, which may take it out of the vibration zone.
It certainly is, however, and especially important as the OP has an auto, it needs to be done carefully as not to introduce "creep"

I reckon there is another underlying issue causing the amount of vibration the OP decribes....."the wheel is a blur at idle"

Bum injector perhaps

Brian
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Old 22nd May 2018, 06:06   #4
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Just check that the lower engine mount is the correct one, I had the same problem when I got my ZTT last year, lower engine mount was new and it wasn’t until I realised it was the 1.8 petrol mount and changed it things improved. Original owner had it done at a garage and a petrol one was used by mistake.

If the mount has a M stamped on it then it’s the petrol one.

Made a huge difference to mine. Also did you change the upper toe rod mount when doing the hydro mount?
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Old 22nd May 2018, 06:12   #5
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Photo here;
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Old 22nd May 2018, 18:44   #6
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No I didn't change the other top mount next to the hydromount. Does that one make a big difference? I don't get any clunk on pulling away so assume the gearbox mount is good. Car has done 158k miles and had been on original mounts. The hydro was stamped 02. No one near me with a T4 but would like my injectors tested for balance. I do have a ron box but it vibrated before that was fitted.
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Old 22nd May 2018, 18:56   #7
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crankshaft pulley out of balance??
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Old 22nd May 2018, 20:29   #8
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It is a new crankshaft pulley and as there is no woodruff key it just slides straight on the shaft. Torqued bolt on with the 450nm windy gun. It should be fine. It was a dmgrs one. Not the corteco but the recommended alternative.
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Old 22nd May 2018, 21:08   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanbp View Post
It is a new crankshaft pulley and as there is no woodruff key it just slides straight on the shaft. Torqued bolt on with the 450nm windy gun. It should be fine. It was a dmgrs one. Not the corteco but the recommended alternative.
No disrespect to Matt but I bought one of those and it fell apart in the box... he sorted it out but I would always go corteco...
If you have vibration and you changed the pulley recently I would be putting 2 and 2 together...
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Old 22nd May 2018, 21:36   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alanbp View Post
No I didn't change the other top mount next to the hydromount. Does that one make a big difference? I don't get any clunk on pulling away so assume the gearbox mount is good. Car has done 158k miles and had been on original mounts. The hydro was stamped 02. No one near me with a T4 but would like my injectors tested for balance. I do have a ron box but it vibrated before that was fitted.
You need to have a word with Gary (Lovel) in Methlick, I'm sure he'd be happy to T4 your car

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