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Old 19th May 2018, 19:55   #11
marinabrian
 
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It is 50% likely the drivers switchpack is at fault, the other 50% being the passenger side switchpack.

It won't be the BCU, the errors you've listed have nothing to do with anything other than BMW being pessimistic about current draw from the window motors.

You can replicate this fault by unplugging the passenger side switchpack on any 75 and you will get the same results, I would trial by substitution the window switches and go from there

Brian
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Old 19th May 2018, 20:36   #12
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Thanks Brian but I’ve already tried switching out both the drivers and passengers side switch packs, with working ones from my other saloon, to no avail.😪


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Old 20th May 2018, 18:31   #13
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Tried again, switching the switch packs from problem car to the tourer.
They worked fine on the tourer.
Moved the tourer switch packs onto problem car, and....nothing (well, for everything except passenger front window.)
Still getting the clicking sound from the bcu / glovebox area.
Tried spraying all electrical connectors with electrical contact cleaner, before refitting the switch packs, but still no joy.
Is there actually a relay I should be checking, or is that toaf error a red herring?


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2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1)

2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort)
2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone )
2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?)

2009 E220 (For a change)
2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things)
1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)
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Old 21st May 2018, 14:44   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75driver View Post
Tried again, switching the switch packs from problem car to the tourer.
They worked fine on the tourer.
Moved the tourer switch packs onto problem car, and....nothing (well, for everything except passenger front window.)
Still getting the clicking sound from the bcu / glovebox area.
Tried spraying all electrical connectors with electrical contact cleaner, before refitting the switch packs, but still no joy.
Is there actually a relay I should be checking, or is that toaf error a red herring?


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The relays are inside the BCU, and the TOAF errors are a red herring.

Time to crack out the multimeter to check the door looms, and take a look to see if the connectors in the A pillars don't have any green corrosion on the pins.

It is a windowbus fault, but where is the question

Brian
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Old 21st May 2018, 20:20   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
The relays are inside the BCU, and the TOAF errors are a red herring.



Time to crack out the multimeter to check the door looms, and take a look to see if the connectors in the A pillars don't have any green corrosion on the pins.



It is a windowbus fault, but where is the question



Brian


Ahh, thanks Brian.
At least there is something mechanical to check 1st.😬
Now to find out where these connectors are...🙄


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Old 21st May 2018, 20:51   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75driver View Post
Ahh, thanks Brian.
At least there is something mechanical to check 1st.😬
Now to find out where these connectors are...🙄


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In the most awkward place possible Sean, door off, or wing off, choice is yours

My preference is to lift the doors off and unplug them to test

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Old 21st May 2018, 20:52   #17
75driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75driver View Post
Ahh, thanks Brian.
At least there is something mechanical to check 1st.😬
Now to find out where these connectors are...🙄


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As I’m a lazy so and so....is the door wiring harness connector inside the door, or inside the car?
No point in taking a door card off if I don’t have to..


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2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone )
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2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things)
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Old 21st May 2018, 21:07   #18
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Quote:
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As I’m a lazy so and so....is the door wiring harness connector inside the door, or inside the car?
No point in taking a door card off if I don’t have to..


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Outside the door in a grommet behind the back of the wing
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Old 9th June 2019, 16:53   #19
75driver
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Quote:
Originally Posted by marinabrian View Post
The relays are inside the BCU, and the TOAF errors are a red herring.



Time to crack out the multimeter to check the door looms, and take a look to see if the connectors in the A pillars don't have any green corrosion on the pins.



It is a windowbus fault, but where is the question



Brian

Well, I’ve been busy at work so haven’t had much time to do car related stuff, especially on the project gold car.

Haven’t taken the door off to check the connectors in the A pillars as recommended.🤭
But I did take the multimeter out today, to check for a residual battery drain.
Turns out I’ve a drain of 170mA, when the car has gone into sleep mode.

Pulling fuse 32 (remote door locking / interior lights) in the passenger footwell drops the drain to 40mA.
- interior lights still function, but not as a courtesy light when door is opened.
- drivers door module doesn’t operate any windows at all, but all windows, except drivers door, operate by their own module.

Pulling fuse 35 (front windows) drops the drain to 70mA.

Must do as suggested at some point, as it looks like battery drain and non functional window operation are linked.🙄



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2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1)

2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort)
2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone )
2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?)

2009 E220 (For a change)
2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things)
1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)
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