Clutch query

[__chris__]

Just got back home after having been recovered when the clutch stopped working on the way home from the school run.

Can someone here tell me how to know what I should be asking the mechanic/ clutch centre to do for me?

The symptoms are a clutch pedal that just depresses and doesn't return and doesn't engage at all. There's plenty of fluid in the reservoir.

Should I be looking at new / reconditioned parts or are 2nd hand ones OK?
I've got a 1.8 R75 on my drive that I can cannibalise for parts, but don't know whether the clutch components are the same for the 2.5 MGZT. Again, any guidance here would be really welcome.

[trebor]

Likely to be the slave cylinder leaking and as it is inside the housing, the clutch components will also be visible when dismantled, I would be using a new slave not second hand and get the clutch inspected at the same time for wear as might be worth replacing at the same time, there are traders on here who will fit clutches such as Andi Willi, knows the cars, can be trusted and won't rip you off, although he is not in your part of the country there may be others, rather than give the work to an unknown and take a chance on final cost

[HarryM1BYT]

Doesn't engage is entirely opposite from doesn't release

Doesn't engage means you would have no drive at all.

Doesn't release and with a full cylinder means there is air in the hydraulics, pressing the pedal just compresses the air, rather than disengaging the clutch plate. Bleeding it should sort that, but it may not be a permanent fix - air could continue to get in.

Are you sure you are looking at the correct master cylinder? The brake one is NOT combined with the clutch. The clutch one is inside the car, above the clutch pedal, not easy to check.

The clutch bleed nipple is on top of the gearbox, under the battery on the end of a pipe and can be accessed with the battery in place.

Please don't go to just any clutch company, you may well be sorry you did. Talk to Andy Willi, he is the clutch expert on the forum and regularly travels around the country fixing them.

[__chris__]

Originally Posted by HarryM1BYT

Doesn't engage means you would have no drive at all.

Doesn't release and with a full cylinder means there is air in the hydraulics, pressing the pedal just compresses the air, rather than disengaging the clutch plate. Bleeding it should sort that, but it may not be a permanent fix - air could continue to get in.

I was driving merrily along and then, as I went round a roundabout, when I depressed the clutch pedal, it stayed down. I can't select a gear.

I noticed yesterday that the clutch seemed to be riding a bit high but obviously had no inkling that this was about to happen.

Are you sure you are looking at the correct master cylinder? The brake one is NOT combined with the clutch. The clutch one is inside the car, above the clutch pedal, not easy to check.

In that case, no. I asked the breakdown guy to check it and I'm pretty sure he only popped his head under the bonnet. I must admit that I had no idea that they weren't the same reservoirs.

Please don't go to just any clutch company, you may well be sorry you did. Talk to Andy Willi, he is the clutch expert on the forum and regularly travels around the country fixing them.

Thanks. I'd have called him first but he lives 200 miles away, not sure if he'd want to come this far....

[COLVERT]

Originally Posted by __chris__

I was driving merrily along and then, as I went round a roundabout, when I depressed the clutch pedal, it stayed down. I can't select a gear.

I noticed yesterday that the clutch seemed to be riding a bit high but obviously had no inkling that this was about to happen.



In that case, no. I asked the breakdown guy to check it and I'm pretty sure he only popped his head under the bonnet. I must admit that I had no idea that they weren't the same reservoirs.





Thanks. I'd have called him first but he lives 200 miles away, not sure if he'd want to come this far....

The reservoir with the white cap------( Clutch. )

[DMGRS]

Andy Willi will come that far (from memory).
It sounds like the Master to me - I'd recommend fitting the Mk1 Tazu metal item: Metal Master Cylinder - Genuine MG Rover

If you can find a garage that'll fit your own parts, even better.

[__chris__]

Originally Posted by DMGRS

Andy Willi will come that far (from memory).
It sounds like the Master to me - I'd recommend fitting the Mk1 Tazu metal item: Metal Master Cylinder - Genuine MG Rover

If you can find a garage that'll fit your own parts, even better.

So including the fluid, that would cost £100 + labour.
TBH At that price, I'd rather have one of the all metal versions than re-use the one from the 1.8T Connie.

I've PMd Andy and phoned his mobile & left a message.
If he doesn't get back to me is there anyone else I should ask, or is it a relatively straightforward task for a local mobile mechanic?

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by COLVERT

The reservoir with the white cap------( Clutch. )

Just to save a bit of confusion in Colverts photo...

Ignore the red box, that is the heater pipework - look to the upper right corner, the bright blue thingummy (not the dash) on the steering column, just slightly up and to the left of that part. You can also see the clutch arm, to the left of the reservoir.

You will need to drop off the kick panel below the dash and a second panel which runs along directly under the dash/ over the steering column.

You remove the clear coloured cap, then remove a rubber condom like seal under the cap, to top it up.

Not surprised your garage got the wrong master cylinder reservoir, Haynes got it wrong - they said the brake master reservoir also serves the clutch

[Billy1mate]

Has it been established that the master cylinder has leaked? Unless I've missed some part of the thread the slave cylinder hasn't been eliminated yet.

[HarryM1BYT]

Originally Posted by __chris__

So including the fluid, that would cost £100 + labour.
TBH At that price, I'd rather have one of the all metal versions than re-use the one from the 1.8T Connie.

I've PMd Andy and phoned his mobile & left a message.
If he doesn't get back to me is there anyone else I should ask, or is it a relatively straightforward task for a local mobile mechanic?

There are three versions of the master, the OEM which you probably have now 1, an all metal one from TAZU 2 and a fancy billet alloy one made by TAZU3.

#2 Has an issue that it is somewhat awkward to install on a RHD, due to the the outlet for the hydraulic pipe exiting at the wrong angle and being supplied with a rigid copper pipe.

#3 Is a like for like fit on UK cars, reuses the OEM flexible plastic pipe, but a few have reported issues with the seals leaking (but not me). There has been no word on TAZU having addressed this problem and therefore #3 might not even be available any more.

Andy is also the agent for these, so best ask him what the situation is. Rather than risk it with an installer, wait for Andy.

You still don't know whether the master has failed, or the slave. Oil on the carpet tends to confirm it is the master. Only after a lot has leaked out of the slave, will it show under the 'clutch bell housing'.

The usual way to work out which, is to top up the master and see how things progress. The slave is the much more expensive job, the gearbox has to be split from the clutch and its usual to fit a new clutch at the same time. Andy can do this in his sleep

You could drive the 200 miles to Andy, even with a none releasing clutch, if you were so minded.