Help Burst water hose! overheated engine

bikerbond · 23rd June 2011, 06:49

Hi all
Yeserday the car started to rattle so I pulled over and found lots of steam from the bottom hose to the radiator. The temp gauge never went up as I assume there was no water left in the system so I got no warning

I had the car recovered to home and fitted a new bottom hose, but now the car overheats within about 1 mile and blows the water out of the expansion tank cap plus lots of white smoke when I try to start it.

So 2 questions
1) Has the HG has gone ?

2 ) the engine has 100k miles on has been fitted with LPG since 36k miles and was runing good on LPG. Would you fix the engine or buy a low miles engine from a accicdent damaged car for £600

plus any other helpfull info

Ta
Martin

Dashiel · 23rd June 2011, 11:51

thermostat sticking shut?

kissifer1972 · 23rd June 2011, 12:24

Don't automatically assume HGF just because it is a K series.

The thermostat idea is definitely worth a check and a cheap fix.

Could also be you have an airlock that is causing your new overheating.

Can you perform a compression test? The tool needed is not very expensive at all and the car doesn't need to be running to carry it out.

Obviously you want to run the engine as little as possible until you know the cause.

There are an awful lot of very knowledgeable members that live in your area of the country. I'm sure they'll be along and be able to recommend a local trusted garage if you need to go down that line.

Chris

James.uk · 23rd June 2011, 13:23

I think a smoke test is preferable to a compression test these days?

A test i always did was - with the engine cold, undo the rad cap to release any pressure, then replace. next run the engine for 20 seconds and turn it off again.. Then very slowly undo the rad cap again and listen for a release of pressure, if there is pressure, start to worry coz there shouldn't be any...

The above only shows a head thats leaking from a cylinder into the water jacket. It will not show a head leaking between cylinders or into an oil way.

But an oil way leak will cause pressure in the sump displayed by a vanishing dipstick, and oil mist pumping out when you take the oil filler cap off..

...

marinabrian · 24th June 2011, 07:39

Quote:

Originally Posted by bikerbond

Hi all
Yeserday the car started to rattle so I pulled over and found lots of steam from the bottom hose to the radiator. The temp gauge never went up as I assume there was no water left in the system so I got no warning

I had the car recovered to home and fitted a new bottom hose, but now the car overheats within about 1 mile and blows the water out of the expansion tank cap plus lots of white smoke when I try to start it.

So 2 questions
1) Has the HG has gone ?

2 ) the engine has 100k miles on has been fitted with LPG since 36k miles and was runing good on LPG. Would you fix the engine or buy a low miles engine from a accicdent damaged car for £600

plus any other helpfull info

Ta
Martin

100k is nothing for a lpg powered K, however an almost identical scenario faced my wife's freelander, also on lpg where a catastrophic water loss occurred caused by a defective hose clip.
I refilled & bled the system, and the car ran beautifully, albeit pressurising the system, and continued to do so for 6 weeks until I had the time to replace the HG.
I put the resultant lack of damage down to the fact the car had cut out due to the vaporiser freezing, not having any circulating water.
I would say, it's definitely worth changing the head gasket, before condemning the engine as scrap.
Good luck
Brian.

23rd June 2011, 06:49	#1
bikerbond Newbie MG ZT= 160 T Join Date: May 2011 Location: Wolverhampton Posts: 6 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Help Burst water hose! overheated engine Hi all Yeserday the car started to rattle so I pulled over and found lots of steam from the bottom hose to the radiator. The temp gauge never went up as I assume there was no water left in the system so I got no warning I had the car recovered to home and fitted a new bottom hose, but now the car overheats within about 1 mile and blows the water out of the expansion tank cap plus lots of white smoke when I try to start it. So 2 questions 1) Has the HG has gone ? 2 ) the engine has 100k miles on has been fitted with LPG since 36k miles and was runing good on LPG. Would you fix the engine or buy a low miles engine from a accicdent damaged car for £600 plus any other helpfull info Ta Martin

23rd June 2011, 12:24	#3
kissifer1972 Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Conn Tourer & Rover 75 CDT Conn SE Saloon Join Date: May 2010 Location: Queensbury Posts: 1,368 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Don't automatically assume HGF just because it is a K series. The thermostat idea is definitely worth a check and a cheap fix. Could also be you have an airlock that is causing your new overheating. Can you perform a compression test? The tool needed is not very expensive at all and the car doesn't need to be running to carry it out. Obviously you want to run the engine as little as possible until you know the cause. There are an awful lot of very knowledgeable members that live in your area of the country. I'm sure they'll be along and be able to recommend a local trusted garage if you need to go down that line. Chris __________________ Mods so far X-Power Performance Upgrade LED interior lights and sidelights Genuine Rover Xenons - now removed and sold Kenlowe fan Synergy 2 EGR Bypass

23rd June 2011, 11:51	#2
Dashiel Posted a thing or two Rover 75 V6 2.0 Club Tourer LPG Join Date: Apr 2011 Location: South East Posts: 1,405 Thanks: 3 Thanked 39 Times in 34 Posts	thermostat sticking shut?

23rd June 2011, 13:23	#4
James.uk Passed Away 2002 Pale Blue. Rover 75 CDTi Connoisseur auto. 170K miles Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Near the M67. Posts: 14,509 Thanks: 199 Thanked 585 Times in 397 Posts	I think a smoke test is preferable to a compression test these days? A test i always did was - with the engine cold, undo the rad cap to release any pressure, then replace. next run the engine for 20 seconds and turn it off again.. Then very slowly undo the rad cap again and listen for a release of pressure, if there is pressure, start to worry coz there shouldn't be any... The above only shows a head thats leaking from a cylinder into the water jacket. It will not show a head leaking between cylinders or into an oil way. But an oil way leak will cause pressure in the sump displayed by a vanishing dipstick, and oil mist pumping out when you take the oil filler cap off.. ...