|
||
|
5th May 2021, 07:12 | #21 |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Withernsea
Posts: 436
Thanks: 43
Thanked 290 Times in 167 Posts
|
|
5th May 2021, 12:27 | #22 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,440
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
Shortening the threaded fixing
How many obstacles can be placed in the path of fitting new drop links?
I have shortened threaded rod before and the accepted technique is to screw a nut fully over it before using the hacksaw. The nut is then retracted (with lubricant) to restore the damaged end of the sawn off thread. Simple, isn't it. The MG Rover links I have now use an M9 thread. I have found it impossible to find an M9 nut from threaded fastener manufacturers. They consider it non-standard with no market. Edit: I later found out that it is an M10 thread with a non-standard nut size (15mm AF). I'd be interested to hear of any successful solutions to this. Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 25th May 2021 at 06:54.. |
5th May 2021, 12:42 | #23 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
Use the nut that came with it. I know it is likely to be a nyloc, but the damage should be minimal, and if tightened correctly, it is unlikely to come undone. If you have concerns, you could add a spring washer to it or some thread locker. Alternatively, you can file down the thread after cutting to dress it. This task really should only be taking 30 mins per side. Even with the obstacles. Is there additional issues around the fitting area that are causing a headache?
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
5th May 2021, 14:06 | #24 | |||
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Former Middlesex
Posts: 20,440
Thanks: 1,587
Thanked 3,749 Times in 3,181 Posts
|
Quote:
Quote:
Quote:
Simon
__________________
"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. Last edited by SD1too; 25th May 2021 at 06:55.. |
|||
5th May 2021, 15:40 | #25 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
You can get plain M9 nuts, but are you sure they are M9? Another method for dressing them would be an appropriate die (M9 dies are also available too). But if you are reluctant to use the nut, then just manually dress the thread - it takes a minute or two. The Nyloc will not be a factor in the long term reliability (and would be equally compromised if copper grease was on the threads - should only have it on the mated faces). The long term reliability will be on the ball joints themselves, to which I am guessing you will not add additional grease? 30 minutes prep (for additional greasing and painting) and 30 mins per side will still provide long term reliability. Time is not an issue for me either, but taking your time and doing it correctly, it will still take a short amount of time.
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
5th May 2021, 16:47 | #26 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
Forget the Nyloc nut.---Simply fit two nuts on the long thread and tighten one against the other to lock them.
Oh, and put that hack saw back in your tool box. ( And two nuts locked together will outlive any nyloc nut. --)--So simple, so easy. |
5th May 2021, 16:59 | #27 | |
Loves to post
Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Jul 2016
Location: Withernsea
Posts: 436
Thanks: 43
Thanked 290 Times in 167 Posts
|
Quote:
Also Copper grease will not compromise the long term reliability and is used on thread as well as mating faces .To get the correct torque value of copper slip you need to add it to the mating faces as well as the thread For a non structural component like a drop links, provided the nuts are tightened within the elastic limits of the bolt the exact torque is not critical A decent spanner tighten will suffice Fitting with copper grease ensure easier removal Last edited by TourerSteve; 5th May 2021 at 17:47.. |
|
5th May 2021, 19:09 | #28 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
Exactly lol. Sometimes overthinking something can cause its own failures too.
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
5th May 2021, 21:23 | #29 |
This is my second home
R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: France/or Devon.
Posts: 14,003
Thanks: 3,851
Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts
|
I'm disappointed to see you all seeking complicated solutions when post 26 is the perfect answer.
Copper slip on this or that.---- Possible failure of the Nylock nut.---Torque values on something assembled dry, or lubricated.--- I feel you guys can't see the wood for the trees.--- But what do I know.----- |
5th May 2021, 21:54 | #30 | |
This is my second home
MG ZT CDTi Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: carrick
Posts: 7,859
Thanks: 3,494
Thanked 2,657 Times in 1,973 Posts
|
Quote:
I do cut the end off (it makes a huge difference when fitting), then fit them. An hour later and I am washing my hands.
__________________
It is not gloss primer .............. it is duct tape silver! |
|
|
|