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Old 5th November 2019, 13:37   #51
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It was indeed one of the rear cam sprockets that was causing the issue, one of them was slightly cracked from behind, that's why I couldn't find anything without stripping them off.

But I have a question now, the mechanic found out while carying the replacement that he has to replace the primary belt tensioner too along with the aux belt tensioner, aux belt idler and crankshaft pulley. Found all the parts except the crankshaft pulley, actually found it at dmgrs but it's only available at the end of november, and at Rimmers and other places it costs a small fortune. Could anyone tell me what is the purpose of the crankshaft pulley seal that is placed inside the pulley? Mine is a little dry and looks like it starts slowly cracking and that is the reason why the pulley should be replaced. But he said that it's still fine for now and we can wait until next time for that. Also, can that seal be replaced without replacing the whole crankshaft pulley?
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Old 5th November 2019, 13:51   #52
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Could anyone tell me what is the purpose of the crankshaft pulley seal that is placed inside the pulley? Mine is a little dry and looks like it starts slowly cracking and that is the reason why the pulley should be replaced. But he said that it's still fine for now and we can wait until next time for that. Also, can that seal be replaced without replacing the whole crankshaft pulley?

The rubber part you see isn't a seal, it's an inter-layer that is bonded to two metal sections that make up the pulley. You may have noticed it's referred to as a 'damper' pulley. Basically the rubber interlayer absorbs vibrational energy from the crankshaft and smooths things out. That's why they're expensive. Similarly, the diesel engine suffers pulley deterioration quite rgularly.




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Old 5th November 2019, 15:08   #53
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Thank you TC. Then what would be the symptoms when the rubber is worn enough or the things that a worn damping rubber could cause in the short and long run to say so?

I really find it abusive that one should pay 13 quid for a normal cam sprocket and 200+ for a damping one if it's only that rubber differentiating them.

Also, out of curiosity, on the rear of the engine, why is it that one of the cam sprockets is also a damping one and the other one not? And does the damping one have the same "damping" mechanism as the crankshaft pulley has with the rubber layer?

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Old 5th November 2019, 17:45   #54
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I really find it abusive that one should pay 13 quid for a normal cam sprocket and 200+ for a damping one if it's only that rubber differentiating them.
The damper type cam sprocket is far more complex than the other 'simple' version. I'd guess it's construction will be similar in a way to the damper type crank pulley. The damper pulleys are also rather expensive compared with a simple one-piece solid type.

I note that Rimmer (ambigously IMO) refers to both crankshaft and camshaft mechanisms as 'pulleys'. The toothed camshaft ones are better known as 'sprockets'.

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Old 6th November 2019, 21:49   #55
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... the mechanic found out while carying the replacement that he has to replace the primary belt tensioner too along with the aux belt tensioner, aux belt idler and crankshaft pulley.
Why?

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Old 7th November 2019, 22:48   #56
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Well to be more precise there were the pulleys of the tensioners that were worn, both the primary's and aux's pulleys were making noises when freely spinning them, and the aux idler too, but he recommended that for just some bucks more it would be totally wiser for me to replace the complete tensioner assemblies, both primary and auxiliary, he told me it's totally my decision but he strongly advised it. And for the crank pulley, as I noted, it's damping rubber strip was looking "dry" and thinner and slightly starting to crack.
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Old 9th November 2019, 17:42   #57
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Well this is really starting to bother me now... every timing and aux belt parts were replaced, even the crank pulley (ordered one last minute to say so), excepting the front and rear cam pulleys, and the ticking noise is exactly where I left it, not even a bit quieter than before... The mechanic told me that he puts his money on the hydraulic tappets, listening with the listening stick didn't conclude anything exactly for him too, he told me I should try a more fluid oil first with lower viscosity, I have and always had 10w40 from Motul, he recommended trying a 5w40 and seeing if that changes something. I really have no idea what I should do next now, I only know that this ticking noise is driving me crazy lol

Here's a video after the belts were done, the ticking can also be heard here:

Video

Note: I already used a hydraulic tappets additive and that hasn't changed a thing either...

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Old 9th November 2019, 21:26   #58
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Here's a video after the belts were done, the ticking can also be heard here:

Note: I already used a hydraulic tappets additive and that hasn't changed a thing either...
I tend to agree with your mechanic, it does sound like a tappet and since you've tested or replaced all the usual suspects, what's left?
A tappet that's not hydraulically locked inside will sound like this. It's possible that the inner piston ball valve in one of the tappets has failed or is wedged open with debris. Running the engine should recharge a drained tappet and the noise will go, but they can leak. A hydraulic tappet cleaner might take a while to clear the fault, so it's a matter of waiting. If it 'never' gets better, a tappet replacement may be the easiest fix. However, they can be serviced and there are lots of YouTube videos demonstrating how it's done. Individual tappets cost around £5 (plus postage) from DMGRS, but apart from the lengthy job fitting it, you have to know which one to replace. Of course, it may not be a tappet at all. YouTube isn't hands-on.

Just a thought, it's not V6 IM/VIS rattle is it? I've never heard it myself, but plenty here have.
Click:https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...d.php?t=299973

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Old 9th November 2019, 22:13   #59
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Both VIS motors were replaced with upgraded ones from Dave here on the forum and the inlet manifold was replaced with a perfectly rattle-free one, so that is to be left out, I know how that rattle sounds and it is completely different than this...

I was thinking of something. Maybe, just maybe, replacing my 10w40 with 5w40 would help since the 5w40 is a less viscous oil and it would better lubricate the tappets, but my question is, would you recommend flushing the oil for cleaning the possible sludge? And if yes, what product should I use? Since these are self adjusting tappets, maybe the sludge covered the small cavity where the oil enters the tappet and that's what's causing the problem. I also heard about guys using diesel spec oils for a couple thousands of miles because the detergents in it slowly cleans the sludge and then they flush it out with the oil being hot. But to be honest I don't drive the car that much lately and I cannot wait half a year to cover 2-3k miles so that's why I'm asking if a normal flush will be good followed by a 5w40 oil replacement for a smoother lubrication I think this would be my last attempt to cure it before giving up and letting the mechanic crack the engine open and see what's what in there...
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Old 10th November 2019, 09:29   #60
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Hello Galambosi,

To address possible noisy hydraulic tappets, drain the oil and refill with flushing oil according to the manufacturer's instructions. In the UK I use Comma 'Flush Out' but I'm sure that there will be an equivalent in Germany. I am not convinced that additives can be as effective. When the treatment is complete, drain and renew the filter before refilling with 10W40 of your choice. That is the recommended grade for the engine in temperate climates. The hydraulic tappets do not need 5W oil. You will probably need to repeat the flushing oil treatment if your engine is heavily contaminated.

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