Clutch and slave cylinder

asantosb · 10th October 2020, 19:57

Hey guys! I bought my Connie 2.0 CDT here in Portugal for 2 years now, has almost 275.000 and it’s used as my daily driver. Was just about to getting it painted, however...
"Finally" clutch/slave problem appeared, as I’ve been reading about this problem for so long now

The previous owner told me that the clutch was changed before I bought it, but now I doubt it that he changed anything or, at least, that he changed the slave.

Today the clutch pedal went all the way down. From what I’ve read it seems to be the slave....
From what I’ve read here it’s advisable to change both clutch, slave and master at the same time right?

Also, I would like to hear some opinions about Luk Repset Pro kit but also about genuine Land Rover clutch (URB500070) and AP clutch, sourcing both cylinders separately, as I read Brian talking about these clutches on one post and they seem considerably cheaper to my budget!!

Thank you in advance everyone!!

Cheers from Portugal!
Antonio

trikey · 10th October 2020, 20:01

Hi Antonio, I normally fit LUK, borg & beck or AP clutches and slave cylinders.

If you change everything inside the bellhousing, you can just clean out and bleed the master cylinder BEFORE connecting it to your new slave cylinder.

I find this works rather than replacing the master cylinder.

Good luck with the change, its not a bad job, just remove the front subframe to make the job easier as you will have more room to remove and refit the gearbox.

COLVERT · 10th October 2020, 20:37

Will you do the work of replacing the clutch yourself ???

It runs · 10th October 2020, 20:50

Mine is in bits today. I changed the clutch 14000 miles ago but the concentric bearing failed . Just bad luck.
While the box is semi out I change cover and plate at the same time.
You can do it without removing the subframe but it's tricky .
I have a tazoo master cylinder. If It was to fail I can replace the seals from under the dash.
If anyone disagrees then so be it . But I have done it so ??
Fitted a Borg and beck this time . Can't remember the make of the last one

trikey · 10th October 2020, 21:14

Quote:

Originally Posted by It runs

I have a tazoo master cylinder. If It was to fail I can replace the seals from under the dash.
If anyone disagrees then so be it .

I disagree with the Tazo stuff, they are very hit & miss on quality.

asantosb · 10th October 2020, 21:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

Hi Antonio, I normally fit LUK, borg & beck or AP clutches and slave cylinders.

If you change everything inside the bellhousing, you can just clean out and bleed the master cylinder BEFORE connecting it to your new slave cylinder.

I find this works rather than replacing the master cylinder.

Good luck with the change, its not a bad job, just remove the front subframe to make the job easier as you will have more room to remove and refit the gearbox.

Hey Trickey! Thank you so much for the tips! Just one thing: from your personal opinion and experience, which brand should I pick for the clutch and cylinder since its my daily driver??

asantosb · 10th October 2020, 21:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by COLVERT

Will you do the work of replacing the clutch yourself ???

No! I have some guys that worked in Land Rover in England and they‘ll do the job for me... I only have the knowledge and ability to do easier things

trikey · 10th October 2020, 21:19

I'd go with borg and beck first, then Luk second.

asantosb · 10th October 2020, 21:38

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

I'd go with borg and beck first, then Luk second.

Thanks!! That’s the one I’m going for then!

Looking through the bay I think I’m going to order this one after providing VIN for the exact fittment: https://www.ebay.com/itm/303465855285

Cheers once again! Hope to have my baby on the road as soon as possible! I’ll keep you posted

It runs · 11th October 2020, 05:05

Quote:

Originally Posted by trikey

I disagree with the Tazo stuff, they are very hit & miss on quality.

That's fair enough but it works fine and a genuine one failed I must have a lucky one

10th October 2020, 19:57	#1
asantosb Regular poster Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: Porto Posts: 44 Thanks: 30 Thanked 5 Times in 3 Posts	Clutch and slave cylinder Hey guys! I bought my Connie 2.0 CDT here in Portugal for 2 years now, has almost 275.000 and it’s used as my daily driver. Was just about to getting it painted, however... "Finally" clutch/slave problem appeared, as I’ve been reading about this problem for so long now The previous owner told me that the clutch was changed before I bought it, but now I doubt it that he changed anything or, at least, that he changed the slave. Today the clutch pedal went all the way down. From what I’ve read it seems to be the slave.... From what I’ve read here it’s advisable to change both clutch, slave and master at the same time right? Also, I would like to hear some opinions about Luk Repset Pro kit but also about genuine Land Rover clutch (URB500070) and AP clutch, sourcing both cylinders separately, as I read Brian talking about these clutches on one post and they seem considerably cheaper to my budget!! Thank you in advance everyone!! Cheers from Portugal! Antonio __________________ António Rover 75 Connoisseur 2.0 CDT Mk1 This vehicle was the 32,640th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 2,338th 75 CDT Contemporary to be made out of 4,925 This vehicle was the 5,862nd 75 in Zircon Silver Metallic (code: MUM) to be made out of 9,171 Zircon Silver Metallic 75s

10th October 2020, 20:01	#2
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,765 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	Hi Antonio, I normally fit LUK, borg & beck or AP clutches and slave cylinders. If you change everything inside the bellhousing, you can just clean out and bleed the master cylinder BEFORE connecting it to your new slave cylinder. I find this works rather than replacing the master cylinder. Good luck with the change, its not a bad job, just remove the front subframe to make the job easier as you will have more room to remove and refit the gearbox. __________________ Lest we forget..

10th October 2020, 20:50	#4
It runs Avid contributor Rover 75 saloon Join Date: Aug 2020 Location: Skelmersdale Posts: 181 Thanks: 15 Thanked 49 Times in 42 Posts	Mine is in bits today. I changed the clutch 14000 miles ago but the concentric bearing failed . Just bad luck. While the box is semi out I change cover and plate at the same time. You can do it without removing the subframe but it's tricky . I have a tazoo master cylinder. If It was to fail I can replace the seals from under the dash. If anyone disagrees then so be it . But I have done it so ?? Fitted a Borg and beck this time . Can't remember the make of the last one __________________ Changed everything that needs changing and everything that didn't . It's called preventive maintenance. Last edited by It runs; 10th October 2020 at 20:53.. Reason: Spelling errors

10th October 2020, 21:19	#8
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,765 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	I'd go with borg and beck first, then Luk second. __________________ Lest we forget..

10th October 2020, 20:37	#3
COLVERT This is my second home R75 Saloon. Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: France/or Devon. Posts: 14,003 Thanks: 3,851 Thanked 2,167 Times in 1,816 Posts	Will you do the work of replacing the clutch yourself ???