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Old 10th October 2008, 10:37   #1
empsburna
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Default How do I.... Getting rid of stone chips

OK, been asked a few times to show how to remove stone chips and scratches from a cars paintwork. The following "how to" shows the process I use to blend in unsightly chips and scrapes.

Correction using this method is around 95%+ and will cost you 1/10th of some smart repairers prices - plus the satisfaction of doing the job yourself!

Hopefully this will be useful to some people who are willing to give it a go - if not, leave it for a pro - you could be down to metal in minutes, so follow this at your own risk!

The tools used
  • 2000 & 3000 grit wet and dry sandpaper. leave to soak in soapy water for at least 24 hours.
  • Cocktail sticks (all will become clear!)
  • Paint & Lacquer touch up pens (pretty important!)
  • Car shampoo and various cloths.
  • Polish - I used Menzerna Final Finish and a Porter Cable polisher. When working by hand use a hand cutting polish like meguiars scratch-x or Sonus SFX-1
  • Halogen lights/hairdryer (optional in cold weather to help the paint cure)
OK. On with the process.

The area should first be cleaned and where possible clayed with a clay bar and then wiped down to make sure it is free of any dirt and dust.

Once the area is prepped you can mix some paint. I find the easiest way to apply the paint is by mixing it with the lacquer and building it up in layers. Mix equal quantities of the paint and lacquer, I find the lid from a tub of flora is great, give them a mix with a cocktail stick so they are nicely mixed together. This saves having to worry about putting it on again afterwards.

First the area is flatted back around the stone chips to make sure there are no unnecessary raised areas. Once this is complete it is time to fill them in! (make sure you keep the 2000 grit sandpaper flat to the paintwork and you work in horizontal then vertical passes, making sure it is even. DO NOT press to hard on the paper and use plenty of soapy water or you will be down to primer/metal!) BE WARNED!

First sanding. Notice i'm using the cocktail stick tub to get a flat surface


Working slowly with the end of the cocktail stick gently dab the area with a little of the paint mix until the metal/primer is covered. Don't try and put too much on at this stage as it won't adhere correctly. If possible, gently heat the area up with a hairdryer or halogen light to help get the paint dry quickly. Repeat this process until the chip has been filled and is standing slightly proud of the rest of the paint. This helps to give an even finish once the area is sanded back and polished.

The chips filled and standing proud second time around.


Once you are happy with them and there is plenty of paint to be sanded down it is time to make yourself a cuppa and let the paint go off. (get the halogen light on it or get a friend to gently go over the area with a hairdryer while you put the kettle on). If the paint isn't dry then it isn't going to stick, so make sure you give it a while.

Sanding back the paint.

OK, so the area is filled. The next step is to remove the built up paint so it is even and level with the rest of the car. Like the previous step use slow and gentle movements with plenty of lubrication. If any paint comes off or it is not level, repeat the filling stage again. (notice previous picture doesn't have any sanding marks, well that's because the paint wasn't level so after polishing I had to repeat it again - trial and error!)

Filled and sanded back. Ready for the polish.


The above photo shows the area after the filling and sanding stage. The area now should be flat and totally smooth. (hence the term "flatting" when talking about preperation after spraying)

Once the area is smooth it is time to polish. I used a fine cutting compound, Menzerna Final finish as I was saving time using the porter cable polisher. If working by hand a suitable hand cutting paste will be fine.



And the afters.

Well, I realised I couldn't get one in focus (it must have been the vibration from the polisher, they were all blurry ) But there was another area on the door that was repaired!

After the filling and the sanding - notice the area that has been filled isn't as dull as the rest of the paint?


Same area but head on - ready for polishing


After the polishing stage - this should leave you with an even and mark free finish.


just visible from close up - 95% correction for 5% of the price of a smart repairer!



I hope that helps someone - if you have any comments/questions then stick them up!
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Old 22nd February 2009, 11:44   #2
Simon
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To keep this post tidy, all subsequent posts have been moved to a new thread, which you can find here: http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/foru...ad.php?t=33696 Please post all your questions to this guide in this new thread, thanks.
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