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6th October 2019, 08:52 | #21 | ||
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Quote:
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Simon
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6th October 2019, 09:01 | #22 |
Posted a thing or two
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6th October 2019, 09:58 | #23 |
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Can I check the exhaust gas pressure with toaf or with torque app for example? And if yes, what values should it read?
Also, does the ancillary belt have it's own idler and tensioner? On dmgrs I only found the aux belt but neither a tensioner nor an idler for it I tend to think that the noise is coming from the rear belt, the one closest to the engine firewall since there's the place where the noise is coming from, and not from the aux belt area of the engine EDIT: I succesfully pinpointed with a listening stick that the ticking is coming 100% from the rear belt, the one closest to the firewall (right under the right side of the inlet manifold when looking at the engine). Done a little research and found out that the assembly is made out of 2 pulleys that are timing the admission and exhaust camshafts, correct me if I'm wrong. If that is the case, which one of the pulleys would be more prone to premature breaking? Last edited by Rsnail; 6th October 2019 at 11:11.. |
6th October 2019, 11:22 | #24 | |||
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Yes.
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Simon
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6th October 2019, 12:09 | #25 |
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@SD1too, Thank you lots and everybody for the help provided so far! In order for me to inspect the rear belt assembly near the firewall I can see that the battery carrier has to be removed and from there it's just about unscrewing the cover if I'm right. And if one of the pulleys has to be replaced, what would the procedure be? Do I have to somehow lock the cams or mark the position of the pulleys for when installing the new one?
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6th October 2019, 15:38 | #26 | ||
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But my prediction is that you'll find nothing wrong with rear belt and certainly the sprocket wheels (unless incompetent work has been carried out in the past). Simon
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6th October 2019, 17:32 | #27 |
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I removed the manifolds some months ago when I replaced the thermostat and besides time, that won't be any problem for me, but managed to get a good look at the sprockets only by removing the battery carrier and stripping the sprockets cover off, everything seems fine, belt is good with no cracks and the sprockets have no visible damage or wear, the only thing that got my eye is that both sprockets don't spin exactly around the center and they have about 1mm of excentrical movement, what would that mean and could it be that this is the reason for the ticking? Anyways, the ticking is coming 100% from there as it was way more hearable with the cover off...
Link for the video taken with the movement: Video Last edited by Rsnail; 6th October 2019 at 17:42.. |
6th October 2019, 17:57 | #28 | |
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6th October 2019, 18:33 | #29 |
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You're right Simon, will do that tomorrow or when I get some more time on my hands and compare the two, I also wanted to check if one of the teeth on the sprockets is broken but obviously I can't turn them manually, although that would be really unlikely I guess
One more thing I noticed now on a cold start, which never happened before, is that the ticking appeared also each time when pressing the clutch pedal with the car staying still, and when letting go of the clutch pedal, it disappeared everytime. That's really confusing as the engine and the rear sprockets obviously are still spining regardless if the clutch is engaged or not Last edited by Rsnail; 6th October 2019 at 18:37.. |
6th October 2019, 19:01 | #30 | |
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I still can't rule out a tensioner or idler or worn ancillary belt causing the 'ticking'. Simon
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