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14th September 2019, 07:47 | #21 |
Posted a thing or two
MGZT Join Date: Jul 2015
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But the question is, why the airlock? What is the answer? Thanks T-Cut,the initial cause has been nagging at the back of my mind and I needed that to complete the scene. An observation on world trade and politics, we rushed to trade with the Chinese Communist beast on the basis it is cheaper, with no thought that it was a political system with the express intention of world domination at whatever cost, which had murdered, starved and killed many many more millions of its own people than had died overall in World War 2. Chris .S
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14th September 2019, 09:12 | #22 |
This is my second home
75 Tourer 2.5 Auto, 1.8T, 75V8ZT Join Date: Jun 2007
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An air lock is a pocket of air, that is trapped (usually under a closed thermostat or in a heater or a high point of the cooling system) when filling the cooling system. It will be moved as soon as the car gets up to temperature, the thermostat opens or the heater valve (where applicable) is opened and the water circulates. This is the reason why a top up (or two) is required after filling the system.
As almost all (if not all!) coolant systems are self-bleeding, such an air lock will show up as missing water at the filling point, radiator or expansion tank. A lack of coolant, subsequent to a full cooling system, can only happen if you lose water, and air is drawn in to replace the lost water. This is not an air-lock. It happens gradually as water is lost and no air is trapped. This is a loss of water, to the point that the water pump no longer pumps, or the radiator no longer works as intended. In this case, no amount of bleeding will cure the problem, as the loss will continue until found and addressed. There is a big difference. One is technique and/or care, the other is a fault.
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Worth his V8 in gold Last edited by kaiser; 14th September 2019 at 10:00.. |
14th September 2019, 10:00 | #23 |
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
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14th September 2019, 11:39 | #24 |
Doesn't do things by halves
Rover 75 2.5 Connoisseur Auto (1999) Dealer launch model. Join Date: Mar 2007
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The official MG Rover workshop manual describes both the traditional and vacuum methods. I've always used the traditional method. It requires no special equipment and works perfectly well. Here it is Simon.
Simon
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"Whatever is rightly done, however humble, is noble." Sir Henry Royce. |
14th September 2019, 15:19 | #25 |
This is my second home
Rover75 and Mreg Corsa. Join Date: Nov 2006
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If you fancy setting it up, vacuum filling works very well indeed. No bleeding required.
Clicky: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=41864 Unfortunately, Photobucket are now blurring any images hosted under their old 'free' service. Hope you can understand what they're showing, but please ask if you need more info. TC |
15th September 2019, 12:23 | #26 | ||
Posted a thing or two
Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Apr 2019
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Quote:
Quote:
Re the Photobucket thing - your HowTo pics are blurred in IE11 (1st pic) but they're not in Chrome (2nd pic). I used a fix to get round it - I can't remember which one, it could be this. I've saved the Chrome version as a pdf. Pics are sharp but page breaks could do with tweaking. Last edited by Blink; 15th September 2019 at 12:42.. |
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