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Old 14th September 2019, 07:47   #21
mileshawk56
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But the question is, why the airlock? What is the answer? Thanks T-Cut,the initial cause has been nagging at the back of my mind and I needed that to complete the scene. An observation on world trade and politics, we rushed to trade with the Chinese Communist beast on the basis it is cheaper, with no thought that it was a political system with the express intention of world domination at whatever cost, which had murdered, starved and killed many many more millions of its own people than had died overall in World War 2. Chris .S
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Old 14th September 2019, 09:12   #22
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An air lock is a pocket of air, that is trapped (usually under a closed thermostat or in a heater or a high point of the cooling system) when filling the cooling system. It will be moved as soon as the car gets up to temperature, the thermostat opens or the heater valve (where applicable) is opened and the water circulates. This is the reason why a top up (or two) is required after filling the system.
As almost all (if not all!) coolant systems are self-bleeding, such an air lock will show up as missing water at the filling point, radiator or expansion tank.

A lack of coolant, subsequent to a full cooling system, can only happen if you lose water, and air is drawn in to replace the lost water. This is not an air-lock. It happens gradually as water is lost and no air is trapped.
This is a loss of water, to the point that the water pump no longer pumps, or the radiator no longer works as intended. In this case, no amount of bleeding will cure the problem, as the loss will continue until found and addressed.

There is a big difference. One is technique and/or care, the other is a fault.
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Last edited by kaiser; 14th September 2019 at 10:00..
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Old 14th September 2019, 10:00   #23
Blink
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
In my opinion, the overheating was caused by an air lock. That's what Brian's vacuum refill resolved.
Is there a How To for Brian's vacuum refill?
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Old 14th September 2019, 11:39   #24
SD1too
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Quote:
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Is there a How To for Brian's vacuum refill?
The official MG Rover workshop manual describes both the traditional and vacuum methods. I've always used the traditional method. It requires no special equipment and works perfectly well. Here it is Simon.

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Old 14th September 2019, 15:19   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Blink View Post
Is there a How To for Brian's vacuum refill?
If you fancy setting it up, vacuum filling works very well indeed. No bleeding required.

Clicky: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=41864

Unfortunately, Photobucket are now blurring any images hosted under their old 'free' service. Hope you can understand what they're showing, but please ask if you need more info.

TC
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Old 15th September 2019, 12:23   #26
Blink
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Quote:
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The official MG Rover workshop manual describes both the traditional and vacuum methods. I've always used the traditional method. It requires no special equipment and works perfectly well. Here it is Simon.

Simon
That's the one I used recently to get rid of a suspected airlock (coolant being chucked out of the cap). It worked, although I have to keep the cold coolant level near the MIN mark to avoid the same thing happening again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by T-Cut View Post
If you fancy setting it up, vacuum filling works very well indeed. No bleeding required.

Clicky: https://the75andztclub.co.uk/forum/s...ad.php?t=41864

Unfortunately, Photobucket are now blurring any images hosted under their old 'free' service. Hope you can understand what they're showing, but please ask if you need more info.

TC
Very neat idea TC - I've got a Pela pump for oil changes so I might give it a try.

Re the Photobucket thing - your HowTo pics are blurred in IE11 (1st pic) but they're not in Chrome (2nd pic).




I used a fix to get round it - I can't remember which one, it could be this.

I've saved the Chrome version as a pdf. Pics are sharp but page breaks could do with tweaking.

Last edited by Blink; 15th September 2019 at 12:42..
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