Diesel water pump quick question

Hantsdave · 24th January 2018, 08:43

Morning chaps,

This afternoon I have to change the water pump - nasty squealing and leaking.

She's done 220,000 so I can't complain.

Although there is not a specific how to on this I have found various notes on it enough to sort it but I'm wondering if its best to do this from above or below or a combination?

Also, (as Clarkson used to say) "some say" that you need to remove the wheel arch liner but I don't see the need as long as the belt tensioner can be accessed.

Responses appreciated.

Many thanks

David.

rustymotor · 24th January 2018, 08:47

Hi, did my alternator, IMO it's easier to reach the tensioner from below by peeling back the liner and using a slim spanner.

EastPete · 24th January 2018, 09:06

Personally, I would do it from the top, taking off the upper right hand engine mount so that you can get a good 'swing' on the belt tensioner bolt. Jacking up the engine a bit will improve access.

However, there is usually more than one way to skin a cat, as they say !Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Pete

Hantsdave · 24th January 2018, 09:12

Thanks guys

I've done the tensioner before but my question regarding access above or below referred to the actual water pump swap. It's in a s0d of a place half way down.

D.

EastPete · 24th January 2018, 09:16

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hantsdave

Thanks guys

I've done the tensioner before but my question regarding access above or below referred to the actual water pump swap. It's in a s0d of a place half way down.

D.

Yes Dave, I realise you were talking about the pump swap, but you have to take the belt off first, then I think that if you jack the engine up slightly, you will get access to the pump - this will be feasible if you have removed the upper engine mount. I would think trying to do it from below or in the wheel arch will be more difficult in my opinion, but I am happy to be proved wrong !

Cheers

Pete

Hantsdave · 24th January 2018, 09:22

Cheers Pete

Yes, the mounting does have to come off and the engine supported on a jack, which is what prompted my question about access.... having the engine jacked and then the car jacked to get underneath is a real pain.

I'll just do it. Shame its blowing a gale here and peeing down so I'll have to stick up a tarp.

D.

rustymotor · 24th January 2018, 09:27

Quote:

Originally Posted by EastPete

Personally, I would do it from the top, taking off the upper right hand engine mount so that you can get a good 'swing' on the belt tensioner bolt. Jacking up the engine a bit will improve access.

However, there is usually more than one way to skin a cat, as they say !Good luck, and let us know how you get on.

Pete

Just a quick one, be careful jacking the engine one member took out his thermostat housing as he went a touch too far..

Hantsdave · 24th January 2018, 10:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by rustymotor

just a quick one, be careful jacking the engine one member took out his thermostat housing as he went a touch too far..

ouch!!!!!!!!

Mike Noc · 24th January 2018, 10:54

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hantsdave

Morning chaps,

This afternoon I have to change the water pump - nasty squealing and leaking.

She's done 220,000 so I can't complain.

Although there is not a specific how to on this I have found various notes on it enough to sort it but I'm wondering if its best to do this from above or below or a combination?

Also, (as Clarkson used to say) "some say" that you need to remove the wheel arch liner but I don't see the need as long as the belt tensioner can be accessed.

Responses appreciated.

Many thanks

David.

David I found it best to remove the wing inner liner - you will be going in from above and below as you have to cut the tabs on the original gasket as it is fitted for that complete end of the engine at the factory.

rustymotor · 24th January 2018, 11:26

Yep ouch it is see picture destroyed the belt:

24th January 2018, 08:43	#1
Hantsdave Loves to post 2004 CDTi SE TOURER Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hereford Posts: 427 Thanks: 110 Thanked 67 Times in 38 Posts	Diesel water pump quick question Morning chaps, This afternoon I have to change the water pump - nasty squealing and leaking. She's done 220,000 so I can't complain. Although there is not a specific how to on this I have found various notes on it enough to sort it but I'm wondering if its best to do this from above or below or a combination? Also, (as Clarkson used to say) "some say" that you need to remove the wheel arch liner but I don't see the need as long as the belt tensioner can be accessed. Responses appreciated. Many thanks David. __________________ Previously owned..Austin Mini Countryman, Austin 1100 VDP, Princess 2200HL (x2), Ambassador VDP, TR7, Triumph Stag, Rover 820, Rover 216 GSi, Rover 420D, Rover 600 Si, Rover 600 GSi, Montego GSi, Rover 216 cabriolet, Jaguar XJ6 Gold, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Tourer CDTi (x3), Rover 75 CDT x 2, Rover 75 Connie V6, Rover 45. Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 x 2, Jeep Chrokee KK Plus a few other foreign ones I'm too embarrassed to mention..

24th January 2018, 09:12	#4
Hantsdave Loves to post 2004 CDTi SE TOURER Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hereford Posts: 427 Thanks: 110 Thanked 67 Times in 38 Posts	Thanks guys I've done the tensioner before but my question regarding access above or below referred to the actual water pump swap. It's in a s0d of a place half way down. D. __________________ Previously owned..Austin Mini Countryman, Austin 1100 VDP, Princess 2200HL (x2), Ambassador VDP, TR7, Triumph Stag, Rover 820, Rover 216 GSi, Rover 420D, Rover 600 Si, Rover 600 GSi, Montego GSi, Rover 216 cabriolet, Jaguar XJ6 Gold, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Tourer CDTi (x3), Rover 75 CDT x 2, Rover 75 Connie V6, Rover 45. Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 x 2, Jeep Chrokee KK Plus a few other foreign ones I'm too embarrassed to mention..

24th January 2018, 09:22	#6
Hantsdave Loves to post 2004 CDTi SE TOURER Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Hereford Posts: 427 Thanks: 110 Thanked 67 Times in 38 Posts	Cheers Pete Yes, the mounting does have to come off and the engine supported on a jack, which is what prompted my question about access.... having the engine jacked and then the car jacked to get underneath is a real pain. I'll just do it. Shame its blowing a gale here and peeing down so I'll have to stick up a tarp. D. __________________ Previously owned..Austin Mini Countryman, Austin 1100 VDP, Princess 2200HL (x2), Ambassador VDP, TR7, Triumph Stag, Rover 820, Rover 216 GSi, Rover 420D, Rover 600 Si, Rover 600 GSi, Montego GSi, Rover 216 cabriolet, Jaguar XJ6 Gold, Rover 75 1.8, Rover 75 Tourer CDTi (x3), Rover 75 CDT x 2, Rover 75 Connie V6, Rover 45. Jeep Grand Cherokee 4.0 x 2, Jeep Chrokee KK Plus a few other foreign ones I'm too embarrassed to mention..

24th January 2018, 08:47	#2
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	Hi, did my alternator, IMO it's easier to reach the tensioner from below by peeling back the liner and using a slim spanner.

24th January 2018, 09:06	#3
EastPete Posted a thing or two Rover 75 CDTi Classic saloon, MGB GT, Skoda Yeti Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Ramsey, Cambs Posts: 1,874 Thanks: 626 Thanked 635 Times in 430 Posts	Personally, I would do it from the top, taking off the upper right hand engine mount so that you can get a good 'swing' on the belt tensioner bolt. Jacking up the engine a bit will improve access. However, there is usually more than one way to skin a cat, as they say !Good luck, and let us know how you get on. Pete

24th January 2018, 11:26	#10
rustymotor Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: May 2017 Location: Hull Posts: 1,848 Thanks: 216 Thanked 432 Times in 340 Posts	Yep ouch it is see picture destroyed the belt: