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Old 5th August 2013, 07:32   #21
Lovel
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Originally Posted by beinet1 View Post
I noticed that the crankshaft endfloat seems to be excessive and did a rough measurement of the crankshaft endfloat with a depth gauge on my caliper. Rough values are 0,6-0,7mm which is far too much… Service limit is 0,35mm. I will inspect the thrust bearings and do a closer inspection on this during removal of the crankshaft
I have measured/inspected 3 x K-series cranks and not one of them had suffered from eccessive end float. Big end and/or main bearing scoring yes, but not end float issues.
Are the digits stamped on the crank corresponding with the markings on the crankcase, could it have been changed at some point in its life?

In each case I used feeler gauges, althought the dial gauge method you used should be more accurate than feelers anyway.
Now, I cant recall if I bolted the complete engine assemblies together to carry out the measurement, perhaps you should bolt the complete assembly together, and check again.
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Old 5th August 2013, 07:42   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel View Post
I have measured/inspected 3 x K-series cranks and not one of them had suffered from eccessive end float. Big end and/or main bearing scoring yes, but not end float issues.
Are the digits stamped on the crank corresponding with the markings on the crankcase, could it have been changed at some point in its life?

In each case I used feeler gauges, althought the dial gauge method you used should be more accurate than feelers anyway.
Now, I cant recall if I bolted the complete engine assemblies together to carry out the measurement, perhaps you should bolt the complete assembly together, and check again.
Hi Lovel,

I used my caliper to check the endfloat to get a rough estimate as it seemed to be to much to the bare eye. A dial gauge or feelers would give me a lot more excact value. There is not doubt that there is excessive endfloat here, and I wonder how the crankshaft/thrustbearings would look like when I take them apart. I also wonder what would cause exccesive wear to these parts.

I think the endfloat would not be affected in any way regarding complete assembly/part assembly of the engine sandwich.

Can you put me in the direction to what looking for regarding the digits on the crankcase/crankshaft?
Thanks
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Old 5th August 2013, 08:38   #23
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Hi BigJohn,

Thanks for that

Its a good guess! Its a -68 Oxford which has been in my family since brand new. It still flies through the MOT`s, but its bodywork is not looking good any longer. I am planing a restoration of this one somwhere in the far future.... Now its just resting together with all my other bits in my garage, only taken out in the sun now and then so it don`t seizes up...
Hi, my late father had a 1971 Wolseley 16/60 and as a boy I remember him putting it in to a local body shop every summer to have the rust spots attended to and that was from 5 years old ! I think there are some small spares for it in his old shed. I'll have a look when I get a spare half hour and let you know. If they are of any use the're yours I don't want anything for them.

Regards

John
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Old 5th August 2013, 09:13   #24
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Hi, my late father had a 1971 Wolseley 16/60 and as a boy I remember him putting it in to a local body shop every summer to have the rust spots attended to and that was from 5 years old ! I think there are some small spares for it in his old shed. I'll have a look when I get a spare half hour and let you know. If they are of any use the're yours I don't want anything for them.

Regards

John
Hi John,

I appreciate that

The Wolseley is a beutiful car which looks way better than the Oxford and A60.

There is a very loyal owners club for these cars and manufactures in the UK that produce new parts according to old spec. So far, I have not have had any problems to get the neccesary spares needed, but there will always be some hard to find items around
Please let me know what you find. If I don`t need them, throw Eddie an email in their forum, and he will probably advertise them for you there: http://morrisoxford.ning.com/
www.morrisoxford.com

P.S.

Here is a picture of my Oxford:


Last edited by beinet1; 16th January 2018 at 18:56..
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Old 5th August 2013, 10:12   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by beinet1 View Post
Hi Lovel,

I used my caliper to check the endfloat to get a rough estimate as it seemed to be to much to the bare eye. A dial gauge or feelers would give me a lot more excact value. There is not doubt that there is excessive endfloat here, and I wonder how the crankshaft/thrustbearings would look like when I take them apart. I also wonder what would cause exccesive wear to these parts.

I think the endfloat would not be affected in any way regarding complete assembly/part assembly of the engine sandwich.

Can you put me in the direction to what looking for regarding the digits on the crankcase/crankshaft?
Thanks
There are details on the numbering coding in the technical section in the K-series engine overhaul section in RAVE OVERHAUL 12-2-75. However it goes into some details about liner grades etc, but that is for production line fit, My impression is that the later engines had one size liners and bearings fits all

The front end of the engine block near the oil filter housing has some digits on it that may match the front timing end stamped on the crank web. For your assembly you will just use standard shells etc unless your crank is way out of spec of course.

BTW, noiced you like your older cars, do you know any Green Mini Cooper or White Volvo Amazon owners in Stavanger
.
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Old 5th August 2013, 12:05   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lovel View Post
There are details on the numbering coding in the technical section in the K-series engine overhaul section in RAVE OVERHAUL 12-2-75. However it goes into some details about liner grades etc, but that is for production line fit, My impression is that the later engines had one size liners and bearings fits all

The front end of the engine block near the oil filter housing has some digits on it that may match the front timing end stamped on the crank web. For your assembly you will just use standard shells etc unless your crank is way out of spec of course.

BTW, noiced you like your older cars, do you know any Green Mini Cooper or White Volvo Amazon owners in Stavanger
.
Hi Lovel,

I have always had a facination for classic cars and love this time of the year when you see some on the road now and then. I have not seen one of the specific ones you mention in my area but both the minis and volvo Amazon is in general popular classics in Norway. A lot of Amazons was sold in Norway in the -60`s and many of them is still alive. Farina`s is another thing, which is very rare in Norway as they rusted away long before they became a classic
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Old 5th August 2013, 14:42   #27
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Don't mean to hijack your thread, but with last post on Farina models, thought you all might enjoy this story about the Riley Riveria
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Old 5th August 2013, 18:16   #28
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Don't mean to hijack your thread, but with last post on Farina models, thought you all might enjoy this story about the Riley Riveria
Ahh... seems to be a pretty rare car The link is posted on the farinaforum now
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Old 6th August 2013, 06:19   #29
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Hi All,
I was a little to excited yesterday to find the cause of the excessive crankshaft endfloat and had the bearing ladder removed. I have no history of this engine and have no idea what it has been through, but this project has had some shocking surprises so far, and this finding is also one of them which make me temporarily lose faith in the human kind…… Crankshaft ladder was removed and only one thrust bearing was found…. The other one is missing….. Say no more… LOL
Rear thrust bearing is missing:

And crankshaft has “subbed” against the bearing ladder:

Crankshaft thrustbearing surface looks fine:

An ex-marine engine reconditioner which I work with had a look at the crankshaft and bearing shells this morning and he says the crankshaft looks good. No need to worry about this. He advised me to lightly polish the bearing journals with fine emery paper grade 600-800 (or what it is called..) to remove any bearing material that may have embedded in the journals to avoid old bearing material to rip up the new bearing shells. This was normal practice when overhauling the marine engines. I love advises like that.. J
So the plan now is, cleaning parts and put block together with new bearings J


Some ligth marks/corrosion at the front end of crankshaft due to storage/water in oil, but these will be easily polished away.

Last edited by beinet1; 16th January 2018 at 18:57..
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Old 6th August 2013, 12:12   #30
Lovel
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No matter what, it makes you feel good to discover the reason behind things like this, at least you have found the reason for excess end float and no damage seems to have been done to the block.

Would this excessive end float have had any effect on the wear of the liners/pistons, possibly yes With the correct clearance at least it should sound a bit quiter when running.
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