75 2.0 CDT Fluids - Help

[Gedget75]

Hi guys,

Need some sort of quick info.

I'm in need of changing all the fluids in my 75 2.0 CDT.
So I was going to ask some advice as I have some doubts:

Engine oil: 10W40 - 6.75L
Manual gearbox: Which spec? I think someone said MTF94, but I dont have this available in my country. Can I use 75W80 instead? - 1.4L
Cooling fluid: Any spec needed? - 8.2L
Steering: Dexron III - capacity???
Brake fluid: DOT4 (can I use a DOT5.1 instead? Will have any advantage)- 1L

Thanks in advance

[marinabrian]

MTF 94 can be bought HERE

The rest of the oils are available over the counter at most motor factors

Brian

[super s]

i used 75w80 in the gearbox without any issues...

the indicated one is mtf94 however i used 75w80 from febi bilsten, i work in a part store and this one the correspondent for our cars...

or if you have rush just buy from where marianbrian is giving you th e link...

[TomRS]

Originally Posted by Gedget75

Hi guys,

Need some sort of quick info.

I'm in need of changing all the fluids in my 75 2.0 CDT.
So I was going to ask some advice as I have some doubts:

Engine oil: 10W40 - 6.75L
Manual gearbox: Which spec? I think someone said MTF94, but I dont have this available in my country. Can I use 75W80 instead? - 1.4L
Cooling fluid: Any spec needed? - 8.2L
Steering: Dexron III - capacity???
Brake fluid: DOT4 (can I use a DOT5.1 instead? Will have any advantage)- 1L

Thanks in advance

Engine oil - make sure its a nice fully synthetic, i always ran my CDTi's on 5w-40 Fully synthetic oil that met the BMW Longlife spec, Opieoils.co.uk will deliver internationally and are very very good.

Gearbox oil - I personally used a 75-90 fully synthetic and have had no adverse affects what so ever, in fact its smoother when cold and lovely and fluid when really upto temperature but if you want to stick OEM then a 75-80 will work Opie do these as well.

Cooling - Eithe red coolant (OAT) at a 70/30% mix or use the blue stuff, but if your converting to blue you must flush the system completely out and change it every year.
There's a big debate on here over which is best so i'll let you make your own mind up on that one.

Steering - Any red ATF will work just fine, again this is available on Opie and about 2 litres should suffice for a full drain and refill.

Brake fluid - Dot 5.1 will just have a higher wet and dry boiling point, its more designed for spirited driving/compition use, but will do ZERO harm by using it, personally i run Dot 5.1 or higher (RBF660/AP Radi Cal R4) in all my cars.

[Gedget75]

Thanks for everyone's input.

So I'm only with the doubt about gearbox oil.

I need to order it today, so I can't source MTF94 in time.

Which is the appropriate one to buy then? 75W80 or 75W90?
Need any specific spec? Like GL-4 or GL-5?

Just don't want to damage my gearbox

[FrenchMike]

Originally Posted by Gedget75

Thanks for everyone's input.

So I'm only with the doubt about gearbox oil.

I need to order it today, so I can't source MTF94 in time.

Which is the appropriate one to buy then? 75W80 or 75W90?
Need any specific spec? Like GL-4 or GL-5?

Just don't want to damage my gearbox

IMO ,a bit risky to put something else than MTF94 although not cheap

[TomRS]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

IMO ,risky to put something else than MTF94

Really? like not to start a debate or personally dig at you but having personally ran the car now for 13k miles and changing the box oil twice using the same fully synthetic 75-90, why do you have to use MTF94?

My GTR is supposed to use Penzoil Race DCTF fluid, but its much happier using Motul DCTF which is now actually supported by Nissan as an alternative but this didnt only came about this year.

I think within reason as long as you pick a fluid thats decent and meets the specs it will be fine, technology has moved on a great deal since the older boxes and specs.
My old A4 for example ran a mineral based oil, the rear diff the same... having done 185k when i bought it the fluids hadnt been changed for a very long time i suspect the diff was orginal is it came out like a white/brown sludge.
The diff was making a bit of noise nothing excessive, but i always changed fluids on a freshly bought car even if its just a "shed" as i like to have a baseline, in fact i usually spend the day cleaning and servicing any newly bought car be it the GTR or the £300 A4.
I put in some Gulf Esther syth 75-90 in both the box and the diff and they are quiet and gear changes are smooth and precise even when cold.

Again not a dig at you Mike your knowledge and previous advice to myself is something i cant thank you enough for, i just cant understand why its so important to use mtf94 thats all? unless you know something i dont (usually the case)

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by FrenchMike

IMO ,a bit risky to put something else than MTF94 although not cheap

MTF94 from a Land Rover main dealer in the UK is about £9.50 per litre, in fact that is where I got the last two litres from at the beginning of the month

Brian

[TomRS]

Originally Posted by marinabrian

MTF94 from a Land Rover main dealer in the UK is about £9.50 per litre, in fact that is where I got the last two litres from at the beginning of the month

Brian

Do you have to use this then Brian? we'll have a chat when i come up for that mount.
Im off the 22nd so will be somewhere in between that and the 9th! so long as you can fit me in

[marinabrian]

Originally Posted by Gedget75

Thanks for everyone's input.

So I'm only with the doubt about gearbox oil.

I need to order it today, so I can't source MTF94 in time.

Which is the appropriate one to buy then? 75W80 or 75W90?
Need any specific spec? Like GL-4 or GL-5?

Just don't want to damage my gearbox

So no Land Rover dealers near you? I would imagine every single Land Rover Dealer on the planet will stock MTF94.

Despite myself, I have only ever deviated once from using MTF94, but that was in a PG1 box, using 75/80 which I had kicking about from a gallon can I normally used in an R65U box.

The result was poor syncromesh after about 1000 miles, so a lesson hard learned

What I will say is simple, don't worry about not being able to get the correct oil "instantly", but make sure you use the correct oil for when you do change the gear oil.

Another word of advice, the filler on the manual box is a pain to access with the subframe fouling clear access, so make sure you can slacken the filler, before draining the oil, and use a short length of garden hosepipe with a funnel attached to fill the gearbox.........much easier than using a squeeze bottle with the attached spout

Brian

Originally Posted by TomRS

Do you have to use this then Brian? we'll have a chat when i come up for that mount.
Im off the 22nd so will be somewhere in between that and the 9th! so long as you can fit me in

See below Tom, or indeed above now

Brian