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Old 21st February 2016, 15:42   #61
David Lawrence
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I found these bolts to be a fair alternative. They take a 16mm socket but are flanged M12 x 45 x 1.5 grade 10.9.

I just swapped one out and it fits fine with no additional washers required.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231821119338

Here are old and new side by side.


Last edited by David Lawrence; 31st March 2018 at 19:16..
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Old 2nd March 2019, 16:13   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by David Lawrence View Post
I found these bolts to be a fair alternative. They take a 16mm socket but are flanged M12 x 45 x 1.5 grade 10.9.

I just swapped one out and it fits fine with no additional washers required.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231821119338

Here are old and new side by side.



As the link to eBay above is no longer working, I got my bolts from Spalding (also on eBay) and I suspect it may be the same supplier.
Contact details and bolt size are also on the photo below.
I’m not sure how much of a problem the 16mm socket heads will be in the future, as I’d say they will be less easy to manipulate if rusted / rounded due to being Smaller and shallower than the OE 18mm socket heads.


Getting the old bolts out was a right old struggle, but with perseverance and a trusty hammer, got there in the end.😬
Unfortunately the chaps at the tyre depot, struggled to properly adjust the rears to the “sweet spot” on the 4 wheel laser alignment machine.
Every time they thought they had it, the
Wheel would go out of spec, on tightening the bolts.😞
They reckon it could be down to worn bushes. Any thoughts?
Ps tracking adjustment brackets don’t look too smart.😳




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Old 2nd March 2019, 20:35   #63
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Hi Sean,

Yeah, worn bushes on the rear track control arms can definitely cause wear on the outer edge of the rear tyres (by putting wheel alignment out?), so might be worth getting these checked out (simple/cheap enough job for any mechanic from what I remember).

I'm not sure there's any actual adjustment possible on those brackets??


Cheers,
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Last edited by The Mighty Quinn; 2nd March 2019 at 20:43..
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Old 3rd March 2019, 07:50   #64
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Quote:
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Hi Sean,

I'm not sure there's any actual adjustment possible on those brackets??

Cheers,
Karl.

Karl,
As far as I know, the adjustment for toe, and camber are done by manipulating / moving the rear trailing arm and bracket when the bolts are loosened.
Ideally when the figures for toe and camber are “in spec” the bolts are tightened.
However, in my case, during tightening of the bolts, the camber drifted back out of spec slightly.
Ill photograph the printout later this evening.


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Old 3rd March 2019, 09:05   #65
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Here it is...



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Old 3rd March 2019, 09:20   #66
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Bit sad I know but I found all these posts most interesting and informative,thanks. Chris.S.
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Old 3rd March 2019, 11:30   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 75driver View Post
Karl,
As far as I know, the adjustment for toe, and camber are done by manipulating / moving the rear trailing arm and bracket when the bolts are loosened.
Ideally when the figures for toe and camber are “in spec” the bolts are tightened.
However, in my case, during tightening of the bolts, the camber drifted back out of spec slightly.
Ill photograph the printout later this evening.


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That's what I've heard on here before as well, Sean. I don't really dabble too much in the mechanical side of things and certainly haven't removed or adjusted the rear arms. But, if you look at the bolt holes in the bracket, there doesn't seem to be any room for adjustment, so once the bolts are tightened, presumably the bracket locates to its predetermined position? Maybe the addition of washers can manipulate the position/seating of the bracket, although I expect there's a fairly straightforward procedure for adjustment - hopefully, someone will come along to explain

Cheers,
Karl.
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Old 3rd March 2019, 13:19   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Mighty Quinn View Post
That's what I've heard on here before as well, Sean. I don't really dabble too much in the mechanical side of things and certainly haven't removed or adjusted the rear arms. But, if you look at the bolt holes in the bracket, there doesn't seem to be any room for adjustment, so once the bolts are tightened, presumably the bracket locates to its predetermined position? Maybe the addition of washers can manipulate the position/seating of the bracket, although I expect there's a fairly straightforward procedure for adjustment - hopefully, someone will come along to explain



Cheers,

Karl.
There's very slight room for adjustment, which obviously becomes exaggerated by the length of the trailing arm.

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Old 3rd March 2019, 13:29   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clf View Post
There's very slight room for adjustment, which obviously becomes exaggerated by the length of the trailing arm.

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Ah yes, that looks reasonable enough for adjustment

Couldn't remember if there was any adjustment room built into the brackets, but that image is fairly clear.


Cheers,
Karl.

Last edited by The Mighty Quinn; 3rd March 2019 at 14:47..
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Old 3rd March 2019, 15:43   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve811 View Post
These are the bolts that hold the rear subframe to the body,part number 8 here:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID001553

They are NLA and mine were a swine to loosen when I had my rear alignment done, so they are abit chewed. Does anyone know what type of bolt they are ie M8 1.25?
No!. Part number 5 is what you need, 4 of them:

https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-GRID001554
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