Headlining removal (75 saloon) - Page 2

trikey · 16th February 2019, 17:50

You do have to manipulate it a little, it is quite forgiving (Unless you fold it in half

)

The Mighty Quinn · 16th February 2019, 22:00

Done this a couple of times. I found it easiest to remove (and refit) via the driver's side rear door.
- Remove front seat headrests and manipulate the backrests as required (easy enough to remove the front seats altogether if you're so inclined).
- Remove the interior lights and A+C pillar trims (pull inwards from top) + sun-visors and grab handles.
- The wiring looms for the lights etc. are hot-glued to the top of the headliner. When lowered a little, I carefully pulled the looms free of the headlining and then refitted the looms to the inner steel skin of the roof with sections of adhesive Silent Coat (sound-proofing). This should leave the headliner removal process that much easier if/when it needs done again.
- Lower the headliner, tilt the left-hand side of the headliner to the ground and carefully manoevre it out the driver's side rear door. The front corners of the headliner need to be bent inwards a little to get it out and you may even have to bend the headliner down at the sides (CAREFULLY!) to get it out. However, in spite of its flimsy construction, it should return to its original shape without leaving any crease marks (my has, and I've done this a couple of times). So, don't worry about folding it a little (in the right direction) - this shouldn't leave any marks when returned to shape and won't affect its "structural" integrity.

Just be as gentle and careful as you can be - as Trikey says, the headliner is actually quite forgiving.

Cheers,
Karl.

Simon W · 17th February 2019, 16:39

Success at last - it's out of the car. Phew!

In the end I used the passenger side rear door, like so:

All four doors fully open.
Steering wheel in towards dash & tilted down.
Slide both front seats as far forward as they'll go.
Recline driver's seat (RHS) as far as it'll go.
Tilt backrest on front passenger seat as far forward as it'll go (i.e. bend the seat double as much as possible).
Pivot headlining round passenger side B-pillar bit by bit (the seat on this side being out of the way due to step 5 above). The front right corner of the headlining will collide with the RHS B-pillar but a gentle bending allows it to clear the pillar. From then on it's easy - it just needs a gentle squeeze to get it through the rear LHS doorway.

Well, that was fun.

Anyway, thanks all for your advice

- time for a nice cup of tea now (or ten).

PS. Karl - I'll have a look at your idea of sticking the loom to the roof instead of the headlining (once I've repaired the high level stop light cable, which I had to cut because I couldn't reach the pesky connector and support the headlining at the same time!).

16th February 2019, 17:50	#11
trikey Premium Trader Rover 75 Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Devon Posts: 33,765 Thanks: 8,837 Thanked 14,831 Times in 8,030 Posts	You do have to manipulate it a little, it is quite forgiving (Unless you fold it in half ) __________________ Lest we forget..

17th February 2019, 16:39	#13
Simon W This is my second home Rover 75 2.0 Litre Club Saloon Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: S Posts: 3,280 Thanks: 38 Thanked 50 Times in 47 Posts	Success at last - it's out of the car. Phew! In the end I used the passenger side rear door, like so: All four doors fully open. Steering wheel in towards dash & tilted down. Slide both front seats as far forward as they'll go. Recline driver's seat (RHS) as far as it'll go. Tilt backrest on front passenger seat as far forward as it'll go (i.e. bend the seat double as much as possible). Pivot headlining round passenger side B-pillar bit by bit (the seat on this side being out of the way due to step 5 above). The front right corner of the headlining will collide with the RHS B-pillar but a gentle bending allows it to clear the pillar. From then on it's easy - it just needs a gentle squeeze to get it through the rear LHS doorway. Well, that was fun. Anyway, thanks all for your advice - time for a nice cup of tea now (or ten). PS. Karl - I'll have a look at your idea of sticking the loom to the roof instead of the headlining (once I've repaired the high level stop light cable, which I had to cut because I couldn't reach the pesky connector and support the headlining at the same time!).

16th February 2019, 22:00	#12
The Mighty Quinn Posted a thing or two 2004 mk1 Rover 75 1.8T Club SE saloon (auto) Join Date: Jul 2013 Location: Enniskillen Posts: 1,307 Thanks: 670 Thanked 254 Times in 222 Posts	Done this a couple of times. I found it easiest to remove (and refit) via the driver's side rear door. - Remove front seat headrests and manipulate the backrests as required (easy enough to remove the front seats altogether if you're so inclined). - Remove the interior lights and A+C pillar trims (pull inwards from top) + sun-visors and grab handles. - The wiring looms for the lights etc. are hot-glued to the top of the headliner. When lowered a little, I carefully pulled the looms free of the headlining and then refitted the looms to the inner steel skin of the roof with sections of adhesive Silent Coat (sound-proofing). This should leave the headliner removal process that much easier if/when it needs done again. - Lower the headliner, tilt the left-hand side of the headliner to the ground and carefully manoevre it out the driver's side rear door. The front corners of the headliner need to be bent inwards a little to get it out and you may even have to bend the headliner down at the sides (CAREFULLY!) to get it out. However, in spite of its flimsy construction, it should return to its original shape without leaving any crease marks (my has, and I've done this a couple of times). So, don't worry about folding it a little (in the right direction) - this shouldn't leave any marks when returned to shape and won't affect its "structural" integrity. Just be as gentle and careful as you can be - as Trikey says, the headliner is actually quite forgiving. Cheers, Karl.