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1st June 2013, 09:39 | #21 |
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Stuck solid!
Afraid of trying to too hard in case something snaps, so going to Homebase now for a new pair! (slightly cheaper at £5.99 each for the bent ones....) Of course, I still have to get the old ones off and the new ones back on and watertight..... Deep joy!
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1st June 2013, 09:42 | #22 |
This is my second home
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Buy some ptfe tape while your there
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1st June 2013, 10:27 | #23 |
I really should get out more.......
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I'm sure I must be missing something here and no doubt I'll be corrected very shortly, but as the system has a combi boiler, all that needs to be done is to turn the water supply off at the mains tap, usually under the sink but not always, and there will be no water, other than the small amount already in the pipes. I've replaced tap washers a number of times on combi boiler systems and that's all I've ever had to do. Turn the mains tap off and there is no water flow! Apologies if I have somehow missed the point here.
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1st June 2013, 10:52 | #24 | |
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Quote:
It's actually turned out to be more the fitting of the new machine that is the issue, as I've discovered the new one has only cold feed, and therefore I need to do something with the existing hot feed. OK, so been to Homebase and now got the taps (plus PTFE tape!). Existing connections did turn out to be taps (see above) but with no handles, and no way are they turning. So, under the worktop to replace them.... and no way will the old ones be coming off! Not only are they apparently welded in place (perhaps literally. They look like they've been there since God was a boy) but the junction to the pipes looks different to the new ones However, I've had an idea. What if I were to pop the old hot flexi pipe back on (the red one, although I guess colour is immaterial) and then stick one of the new taps into the other end of it, in the "off" position? Any reason why this should not work? Are they directional? If this does work, then it can stay like this until we next have a plumber round for some other job, and I can then get him to change it. Or is there something I can simply screw into the end of the hot water supply to block it off? Cheers for the ongoing support!
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1st June 2013, 11:03 | #25 |
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That would work but I suggest getting it rectified at your earliest.
I am guessing that the hose will remove from the valve easily enough? if so then a simple blanking cap can be used to sort it once and for all. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brass-3-4-...item53f94b1faa
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1st June 2013, 11:04 | #26 |
I really should get out more.......
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Ok Dave. Off to Specsavers Monday.
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1st June 2013, 11:21 | #27 |
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Are they not different sized threads on each end or have i misread something? The end which compresses to the copper pipe is usually smaller than the end which takes the pipe to the washing machine in my experience.
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1st June 2013, 11:37 | #28 |
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The valve will be a 15mmx3/4" BSP the 3/4" blank will fit in place of the hose.
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1st June 2013, 11:38 | #29 |
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Ok.
What you have at the moment are two endfeed wall plate elbows (like the ones you would find on a garden tap) with 1/2" isolators which go to 3/4" washing machine connectors screwed into them. All you need to do is unscrew the 'hot' connector and replace it with a 1/2" blanking plug One like this would do. http://http://www.heatingcontrolsonl...lug-p-747.html Remember if you are contemplating using the existing cold hose that it should have a new rubber washer in the end of it so I would advise using the new hose instead as it's just a case of unscrewing the old hose. As mentioned before remove the transit bolts from the back of the machine ( there should be 4) then put your water on. Simple job. Last edited by .....; 1st June 2013 at 11:40.. |
1st June 2013, 11:57 | #30 | |
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Quote:
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