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Old 24th February 2021, 18:10   #1
Shapfell
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Default ECU replacement

Hi all, just need to clarify what bits I need to replace the ECU on a 1.8 n/a 75. It's overfuelling something chronic although T4 shows no problems from the sensors etc. I've started it every week and during cold days the stench of badly burnt fuel is strong from the exhaust and it struggles to run initially, then settles down to a 'struggling' idle. I've been through everything else multiple times and this is a last resort.
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2004 Conn SE 1.8
Work so far:-
Gerry T, Rad Fan Resistor, Handbrake Compensator, Bonnet Catch Block, Leather Handbrake gaiter, Journey Camera,
Sean's DD Unit with Freeview!, Towbar, Rear Sunblind, Smiley!, Headlamp Protectors, Alloy Intake, R75 Brolly, Puddle lights, reversing camera.


2006 MG ZTT 160+ cdti auto; for disposal.


2004 Connie CDTi Tourer; replacement for the ZTT.
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Old 24th February 2021, 18:12   #2
Rick-sta
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Message marinabrian on here. He'll know what you need. May even be able to supply you with one.
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Old 24th February 2021, 18:36   #3
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Just the ecu, immobiliser and the key chip Mike.
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Old 24th February 2021, 20:17   #4
Shapfell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick-sta View Post
Message marinabrian on here. He'll know what you need. May even be able to supply you with one.
I have, but he hasn't replied yet (BRIAN!!!!!)
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Oh well, it's only money......

2004 Conn SE 1.8
Work so far:-
Gerry T, Rad Fan Resistor, Handbrake Compensator, Bonnet Catch Block, Leather Handbrake gaiter, Journey Camera,
Sean's DD Unit with Freeview!, Towbar, Rear Sunblind, Smiley!, Headlamp Protectors, Alloy Intake, R75 Brolly, Puddle lights, reversing camera.


2006 MG ZTT 160+ cdti auto; for disposal.


2004 Connie CDTi Tourer; replacement for the ZTT.
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Old 25th February 2021, 17:08   #5
Shapfell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shapfell View Post
I have, but he hasn't replied yet (BRIAN!!!!!)
Ahhh, will have to go somewhere else then...
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Oh well, it's only money......

2004 Conn SE 1.8
Work so far:-
Gerry T, Rad Fan Resistor, Handbrake Compensator, Bonnet Catch Block, Leather Handbrake gaiter, Journey Camera,
Sean's DD Unit with Freeview!, Towbar, Rear Sunblind, Smiley!, Headlamp Protectors, Alloy Intake, R75 Brolly, Puddle lights, reversing camera.


2006 MG ZTT 160+ cdti auto; for disposal.


2004 Connie CDTi Tourer; replacement for the ZTT.
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Old 26th February 2021, 10:17   #6
WillyHeckaslike
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I would get it T4'd before swapping the ECU out, the ECU on the 1.8 nasp is not to my knowledge as susceptible to failure as on other models in the range. Has the car previously ran ok in your ownership? My Rover 25 1.4 came to me with a similar problem, the main culprits were found to be a maladjusted throttle cable and a thermostat which had been rendered useless by holes that had been drilled through its frame. I suspect under previous ownership that the inlet manifold was swapped out as a job lot complete with everything that is fitted to it so the IACV is not set up correctly for my car. As a result I still get the occasional stall when driving off from cold in the winter but otherwise it runs without problem. I hope to get it fully sorted eventually, it will need T4 or a diagnostic tool that can do the job of setting the IACV with the ECU but I do very few miles and for my needs the problem remains on my to do list on an opportunity basis.
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Old 26th February 2021, 15:34   #7
pletevl
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Just my 2p worth, I have a few K-series cars (2 x TFs and a ZR and I have a T4)
I also was having problems with rich running and stalling when cold. It turned out to be the IACV valve which was sticking, the grease in the bearing had gone hard. I took it apart (not easy to do) cleaned it all up, reset the IACV with T4 and it's fine now.
I'm not saying this is your problem though.
Pete.
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Old 26th February 2021, 21:49   #8
Shapfell
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WillyHeckaslike View Post
I would get it T4'd before swapping the ECU out, the ECU on the 1.8 nasp is not to my knowledge as susceptible to failure as on other models in the range. Has the car previously ran ok in your ownership? My Rover 25 1.4 came to me with a similar problem, the main culprits were found to be a maladjusted throttle cable and a thermostat which had been rendered useless by holes that had been drilled through its frame. I suspect under previous ownership that the inlet manifold was swapped out as a job lot complete with everything that is fitted to it so the IACV is not set up correctly for my car. As a result I still get the occasional stall when driving off from cold in the winter but otherwise it runs without problem. I hope to get it fully sorted eventually, it will need T4 or a diagnostic tool that can do the job of setting the IACV with the ECU but I do very few miles and for my needs the problem remains on my to do list on an opportunity basis.
It ran fine for years, then started showing up engine fault light every so often, now overfuels something chronic. Trikey has had it on the T4 and we can find nothing amiss other than the engine is trying to run within parameters and struggles. Fuel pressure is bang-on (these have no return line so need the proper pressure from the tank pump) but it still idles at 11% and drinks petrol like a drunk at a free bar (It did do high 30's/low 40's mpg on a run, before it failed the MOT on emissions, 25mpg was good.
__________________
Oh well, it's only money......

2004 Conn SE 1.8
Work so far:-
Gerry T, Rad Fan Resistor, Handbrake Compensator, Bonnet Catch Block, Leather Handbrake gaiter, Journey Camera,
Sean's DD Unit with Freeview!, Towbar, Rear Sunblind, Smiley!, Headlamp Protectors, Alloy Intake, R75 Brolly, Puddle lights, reversing camera.


2006 MG ZTT 160+ cdti auto; for disposal.


2004 Connie CDTi Tourer; replacement for the ZTT.
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