How To - Removing Inlet Manifold (Diesel)

Jakg · 10th January 2012, 16:58

Remove the engine cover (3 bolts):

Remove the air intake (2 screws and it slides off) - if yours is unmodified you may have the bellows to deal with as well (another 4 bolts):

Remove the following:
1 - Captive bolts (x8)
2 - Nuts (x4) - you might need a long reach socket for this
3 - Bolt (x1) - be careful not to lose the washer!
4 - Rubber wiring grommet (x1), just pops out
5 - MAP sensor plug (x1) - push the metal clip in and pull the plug down
6 - Bolts (x4) - I have an EGR bypass, so yours may look slightly different, but the bolts the same. You may find it easier to remove the hose (one jubilee clip) for access.

Now to remove, simply pull up. There are 8 (orange) gaskets - they will probably be solid (thanks to the soot) but make sure you don't drop them into the engine!

You might find it doesn't want to move, but it will - it's just years of soot build up holding it in place. Rocking should loosen it, as well as showing you it's not still bolted in!

Haynes recommend replacing the gaskets, but they are ~£10 each (yes, £10 for what is basically an O-Ring of which there are 8!) so I didn't bother.

You should be left with this (minus the tape):

And the inlet manifold itself (you can see where the gaskets would be - I put them out of the way for safe keeping):

Refitting is the reverse of removal - but be careful on the nuts, the bolts they go over aren't very strong and it's very easy to break the bolt in half!

Disclaimer:
You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this How-To

75tourer · 10th January 2012, 20:53

Good how to- will save this.
I'm guessing you were taking it off to clean the gunk out. How are you planning to clean it?. I used carburretor cleaner on my EGR and the gunk from that was a nightmare- took a couple of weeks until my hands were clean again. When cleaning I'm guessing the MAP sensor is housed in the manifold- how can you clean the manifold without contaminating the MAP?- Cheers

Jakg · 10th January 2012, 21:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75tourer

Good how to- will save this.
I'm guessing you were taking it off to clean the gunk out. How are you planning to clean it?. I used carburretor cleaner on my EGR and the gunk from that was a nightmare- took a couple of weeks until my hands were clean again. When cleaning I'm guessing the MAP sensor is housed in the manifold- how can you clean the manifold without contaminating the MAP?- Cheers

You can remove the MAP from the manifold with one bolt once it's off the car.

I've been cleaning it all day, and my hands (and the kitchen sink, and the hose, and a screwdriver, and the picnic table, and my favourite bucket...) are covered in ****

I've cleaned most of the **** off, but I've thrown in the towel and got my Dad to try some industrial degreaser at his work...

EDIT - Imagine a massive EGR, with a lot less access...

BRITRICH75 · 10th January 2012, 21:56

What a fantastic "How to"... Makes me almost wish I had a diesel Conny SE instead of a petrol one... Rich.

Mike Noc · 10th January 2012, 22:11

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRITRICH75

What a fantastic "How to"... Makes me almost wish I had a diesel Conny SE instead of a petrol one... Rich.

Not as much as when you are filling up at the petrol station though Rich?

Mike

ChestersDad · 11th January 2012, 19:13

Really excellent "how to" Jakg

What I, for one, always wanted to know but was too afraid to ask (and to have a go at - until now!)

Many thanks!

(Now waiting to be similarly impressed with the cleaning procedural piccies!)

Reebs · 11th January 2012, 20:39

Very well put together Jack, and worthy of inclusion in the How-To section.

You'll find a copy for reference in the Engine & Technical section

Click Here Excellent stuff

mgmark · 27th September 2014, 16:27

This has been a great help.. My car has been suffering from vibrations as the engine drops to tickover (it's an auto) on the move. Almost feels like warped discs but only happens when the revs have dropped. Found my EGR valve really badly clogged up and the intake was the same - Possibly down the PCV being really badly blocked when I got the car. Just soaking everything in Gunk now so the engine can breathe properly when it goes back together

CapnAndy · 2nd December 2016, 14:42

Many thanks for your comprehensive instructions. I had to remove the manifold while doing the inline thermostat modification and your instructions helped a lot. Result was I've cleaned out the manifold and EGR and it's giving me much better engine performance. I'd recommend that anyone doing the inline Mod should bite the bullet and remove the manifold, it makes things much easier and you're less likely to break the plastic connection on the radiator hose which is what happened to me..

drongo83 · 14th March 2017, 20:50

I agree. Thought i was saving time and hassle going at the steel band on the hose with a dremel without removing manifold. Ended up slightly cutting hose and unable to stop a persistant leak due to being unable to get jubilee clip in the right place and tight enough. It's costed me as much in antifreeze top -ups as diesel during the week.

10th January 2012, 16:58	#1
Jakg This is my second home N/A Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Suffolk Posts: 6,867 Thanks: 0 Thanked 397 Times in 302 Posts	How To - Removing Inlet Manifold (Diesel) Remove the engine cover (3 bolts): Remove the air intake (2 screws and it slides off) - if yours is unmodified you may have the bellows to deal with as well (another 4 bolts): Remove the following: 1 - Captive bolts (x8) 2 - Nuts (x4) - you might need a long reach socket for this 3 - Bolt (x1) - be careful not to lose the washer! 4 - Rubber wiring grommet (x1), just pops out 5 - MAP sensor plug (x1) - push the metal clip in and pull the plug down 6 - Bolts (x4) - I have an EGR bypass, so yours may look slightly different, but the bolts the same. You may find it easier to remove the hose (one jubilee clip) for access. Now to remove, simply pull up. There are 8 (orange) gaskets - they will probably be solid (thanks to the soot) but make sure you don't drop them into the engine! You might find it doesn't want to move, but it will - it's just years of soot build up holding it in place. Rocking should loosen it, as well as showing you it's not still bolted in! Haynes recommend replacing the gaskets, but they are ~£10 each (yes, £10 for what is basically an O-Ring of which there are 8!) so I didn't bother. You should be left with this (minus the tape): And the inlet manifold itself (you can see where the gaskets would be - I put them out of the way for safe keeping): Refitting is the reverse of removal - but be careful on the nuts, the bolts they go over aren't very strong and it's very easy to break the bolt in half! Disclaimer: You are responsible for any work or modifications carried out on your car and you undertake any such work at your own risk. The 75 and ZT Owners Club nor the original author of this How-To can be held liable for anything that may happen as a result of you following this How-To Last edited by Dragrad; 30th July 2015 at 20:56..

11th January 2012, 19:13	#6
ChestersDad Still 75less :-( 1988 Defender 90 Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: Carmarthenshire Posts: 531 Thanks: 15 Thanked 93 Times in 37 Posts	Excellent! Really excellent "how to" Jakg What I, for one, always wanted to know but was too afraid to ask (and to have a go at - until now!) Many thanks! (Now waiting to be similarly impressed with the cleaning procedural piccies!) __________________ Don't save for the future as someone else will lose it for you!

11th January 2012, 20:39	#7
Reebs Owners Club Director Rover 75 Conn SE V6 / MG ZT 260 SE V8 / MG ZT 180 SE V6 Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Southampton Posts: 20,935 Thanks: 645 Thanked 6,851 Times in 2,537 Posts	Very well put together Jack, and worthy of inclusion in the How-To section. You'll find a copy for reference in the Engine & Technical section Click Here Excellent stuff __________________ Check your trim here . Check your spec here Check your colour here . Check Project Drive here Check your original price here

2nd December 2016, 14:42	#9
CapnAndy Newbie Rover 75 tourer Join Date: Sep 2016 Location: Glasgow Posts: 2 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Many Thanks. Many thanks for your comprehensive instructions. I had to remove the manifold while doing the inline thermostat modification and your instructions helped a lot. Result was I've cleaned out the manifold and EGR and it's giving me much better engine performance. I'd recommend that anyone doing the inline Mod should bite the bullet and remove the manifold, it makes things much easier and you're less likely to break the plastic connection on the radiator hose which is what happened to me..

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10th January 2012, 20:53	#2
75tourer Loves to post Rover 75 CDT Tourer Auto Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Dundee Posts: 285 Thanks: 40 Thanked 13 Times in 9 Posts	Good how to- will save this. I'm guessing you were taking it off to clean the gunk out. How are you planning to clean it?. I used carburretor cleaner on my EGR and the gunk from that was a nightmare- took a couple of weeks until my hands were clean again. When cleaning I'm guessing the MAP sensor is housed in the manifold- how can you clean the manifold without contaminating the MAP?- Cheers

10th January 2012, 21:56	#4
BRITRICH75 Avid contributor Rover 75 2.0 v6 Connoisseur SE Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: WREXHAM Posts: 112 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	What a fantastic "How to"... Makes me almost wish I had a diesel Conny SE instead of a petrol one... Rich.

27th September 2014, 16:27	#8
mgmark Regular poster MG ZT Join Date: Jun 2014 Location: Warrington Posts: 58 Thanks: 1 Thanked 3 Times in 1 Post	This has been a great help.. My car has been suffering from vibrations as the engine drops to tickover (it's an auto) on the move. Almost feels like warped discs but only happens when the revs have dropped. Found my EGR valve really badly clogged up and the intake was the same - Possibly down the PCV being really badly blocked when I got the car. Just soaking everything in Gunk now so the engine can breathe properly when it goes back together

14th March 2017, 20:50	#10
drongo83 Newbie Rover 75 Join Date: Feb 2014 Location: Birmingham Posts: 1 Thanks: 0 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	I agree. Thought i was saving time and hassle going at the steel band on the hose with a dremel without removing manifold. Ended up slightly cutting hose and unable to stop a persistant leak due to being unable to get jubilee clip in the right place and tight enough. It's costed me as much in antifreeze top -ups as diesel during the week.