Towbar Fitting - Electrics - Page 3

matada34 · 18th November 2013, 12:20

So is this orange feed defo 50 AMPS?

I can use this to power both 12 S and N electrics?

Thanks Matt

HarryM1BYT · 18th November 2013, 18:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by matada34

So is this orange feed defo 50 AMPS?

I can use this to power both 12 S and N electrics?

Thanks Matt

If you look in the under bonnet fuse panel, there is a spare place for a fuse link, which is the fuse link for the towing electrics, which is marked as 50amp. The fuse link is the type with metal arms, designed to be installed with two screws, with the fuse part black plastic.

From there (it may need connecting at the fuse box), it ends in the orange/slate which is lose behind the glove box.

50amps seems to be excessive, 30amps should be enough, but additional fuses will be needed at the rear, where you split the main feed down.

matada34 · 27th November 2013, 19:27

Ok

thanks.... Why doesn't the user manual show this fuse along with all the others?

HarryM1BYT · 27th November 2013, 19:55

Quote:

Originally Posted by matada34

Ok

thanks.... Why doesn't the user manual show this fuse along with all the others?

The symbol on the lid of the fusebox for that fuse way, suggests reading the handbook.

matada34 · 30th November 2013, 17:00

Today I did most of the electrics on the 75 tow bar.

I found this feed which seems to be permanently live, the confusing but is that I have a spare space for a 50amp fuse (metal one screwed down), on the fuse box lid it shows this as a car symbol with arrows pointing to the rear.

I assumed this was the trailer 50amp supply but I'm a little confused as to why there is no fuse yet it's live?!

Any thoughts would be great

Cheers

HarryM1BYT · 30th November 2013, 17:23

Quote:

Originally Posted by matada34

Today I did most of the electrics on the 75 tow bar.

I found this feed which seems to be permanently live, the confusing but is that I have a spare space for a 50amp fuse (metal one screwed down), on the fuse box lid it shows this as a car symbol with arrows pointing to the rear.

I assumed this was the trailer 50amp supply but I'm a little confused as to why there is no fuse yet it's live?!

Any thoughts would be great

Cheers

One end of the fuse way is and will be permanently live, it is fed from the bus bar, which in turn is fed straight from the battery. The other end of the fuse only becomes live when the fuse is added.

So basically your live feed from front to rear of the car, is live all of the time and usually is fed into a voltage sensing relay in the boot, which in turn switches the two supplies to the van battery and fridge. Neither than should be powered, except when you start the engine and the relay senses the voltage rise and then closes.

If the orange /slate is live, with no trailer supply fuse installed, it suggests that someon has connected it to the wrong fuse, which is remarkably easy to do.

matada34 · 30th November 2013, 18:26

When you say somebody... Do you mean the factory?

The connector was still taped nicely to the loom from the factory.

I just read on the forum that this wire is a permanent 20A feed?! Just trying to find the post...

matada34 · 30th November 2013, 18:29

Previous post...

Quote:
Originally Posted by humphshumphs
I am looking at running a 8awg cable with a 50amp fuse inline (as I have the cable/fuse) that is going to be perm.live.

I'll run the cable and connect it all up
There is a 20amp live all the time feed just behind the glovebox, which is normally only used for a trailer supply, why not make use of that?
__________________
Harry

HarryM1BYT · 30th November 2013, 21:01

Quote:

Originally Posted by matada34

When you say somebody... Do you mean the factory?

The connector was still taped nicely to the loom from the factory.

I just read on the forum that this wire is a permanent 20A feed?! Just trying to find the post...

Confusion!

The cable only becomes live, a permanent live one, when it is plugged into the under bonnet fuse panel. If you un-bolt the fuse panel and raise it, you should be able to find the other end of the wire underneath.

Remember you need to not only fit a cable front to rear to allow for the current, but also big enough to cope with the volts drop. Usually this means at least 4mm, better is 2x 4mm or a 6mm.

bugsley999 · 28th May 2014, 16:23

My 20 year old 4X4 engine blew on the M62 a few weeks back

However, replaced it with 75CDTi Tourer auto

with just 72k miles in not bad nick. Couple of niggling little faults that I'll may be back here for advice on a bit later.

But for now, to the point of this post. Witter towbar physically fitted (**** blow-up drawing wasted me some time figuring why bits were not missing!) and now on to the electrics with a couple of very basic questions.

I note from this thread that it seems folks come down the nearside (left) of the tourer and take out all the trim and it's a bit of a pain. (are there any drawings available showing where the fixings are on the forum?) Why not come down the right side where the CD changer is and terminate everything there where there is easier access and I suspect all the trim will not need to be removed?

Standard 20mm "electrical" glands would seem ideal for cable entry purposes rather than just grommets. Where is the best place to come through the rear metalwork with the cables?

Any other advice BEFORE I start?

Thanks.

Regards

Bugsley (Knottingley)

18th November 2013, 12:20	#21
matada34 Regular poster Rover 75 Estate Connersuer Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Orange Wire - Trailer? So is this orange feed defo 50 AMPS? I can use this to power both 12 S and N electrics? Thanks Matt

27th November 2013, 19:27	#23
matada34 Regular poster Rover 75 Estate Connersuer Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Electrics Ok thanks.... Why doesn't the user manual show this fuse along with all the others?

30th November 2013, 17:00	#25
matada34 Regular poster Rover 75 Estate Connersuer Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fuse Today I did most of the electrics on the 75 tow bar. I found this feed which seems to be permanently live, the confusing but is that I have a spare space for a 50amp fuse (metal one screwed down), on the fuse box lid it shows this as a car symbol with arrows pointing to the rear. I assumed this was the trailer 50amp supply but I'm a little confused as to why there is no fuse yet it's live?! Any thoughts would be great Cheers

30th November 2013, 18:26	#27
matada34 Regular poster Rover 75 Estate Connersuer Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Fuse When you say somebody... Do you mean the factory? The connector was still taped nicely to the loom from the factory. I just read on the forum that this wire is a permanent 20A feed?! Just trying to find the post...

30th November 2013, 18:29	#28
matada34 Regular poster Rover 75 Estate Connersuer Join Date: Oct 2013 Location: Staffordshire Posts: 35 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	Previous post... Quote: Originally Posted by humphshumphs I am looking at running a 8awg cable with a 50amp fuse inline (as I have the cable/fuse) that is going to be perm.live. I'll run the cable and connect it all up There is a 20amp live all the time feed just behind the glovebox, which is normally only used for a trailer supply, why not make use of that? __________________ Harry

28th May 2014, 16:23	#30
bugsley999 Newbie Rover 75 Saloon Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: Knottingley Posts: 12 Thanks: 1 Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts	My 20 year old 4X4 engine blew on the M62 a few weeks back However, replaced it with 75CDTi Tourer auto with just 72k miles in not bad nick. Couple of niggling little faults that I'll may be back here for advice on a bit later. But for now, to the point of this post. Witter towbar physically fitted (**** blow-up drawing wasted me some time figuring why bits were not missing!) and now on to the electrics with a couple of very basic questions. I note from this thread that it seems folks come down the nearside (left) of the tourer and take out all the trim and it's a bit of a pain. (are there any drawings available showing where the fixings are on the forum?) Why not come down the right side where the CD changer is and terminate everything there where there is easier access and I suspect all the trim will not need to be removed? Standard 20mm "electrical" glands would seem ideal for cable entry purposes rather than just grommets. Where is the best place to come through the rear metalwork with the cables? Any other advice BEFORE I start? Thanks. Regards Bugsley (Knottingley)