Removing air inlet concertina captive bolts

75driver · 14th February 2018, 22:12

Any recommendations for removing the 3 captive bolts, that secure the air inlet concertina?
Mine are just spinning.😪
Tried wedging a screwdriver in from behind, but with no luck.
Do I have to remove the black steel piece that the bolts go through?

Any quick fixes once removed?

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madeupname · 14th February 2018, 23:29

The black metal thingy that they go through is the slam panel. And I have the same problem.
The bolts on either side screw into rubber wellnuts. I bought some off ebay and it looks like the metal female thread for the bolt doesn't start until about a quarter inch down.
The one in the middle doesn't have a wellnut under it. If you go to Rimmers and find the bit that shows the turbo air intake pipe, you'll get a better idea of what it looks like under the slam panel.
As for getting them off, I'm considering raising them as high as possible then cutting them off with a hacksaw.
The wellnuts are M6x15 iirc.

Arctic · 15th February 2018, 08:15

First you need to pry off the air duct, using a car trim removal tool metal, use one with the widest gap.

Press down and pop the air duct off each end of the rubber grommets then the middle one.

The best way to remove the air intake is to remove the slam panel as you will have more room to remove the rubber grommets off the brass collets after removing the air intake.

Once you can access the brass collets a mole grip is your best friends and an 8mm socket.

steve-45 · 15th February 2018, 13:39

When Artic changed mine at a nano last summer he made the above procedure look so simple.

Thanks again Steve.

75driver · 15th February 2018, 20:01

Can I ask what is the solution, once removed?
Refit a new rubber grommet with new brass collet?
Or is there an alternative "bodge".?

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madeupname · 15th February 2018, 20:18

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75driver

Can I ask what is the solution, once removed?
Refit a new rubber grommet with new brass collet?
Or is there an alternative "bodge".?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ooooh no bodging please

Checked my bag, they are M6x15 wellnuts, come as a pack of 5, and then you'll need some M6x15 bolts. When I eventually get round to doing mine I will put some copper grease on, or wipe with an oily rag, to help get them off in the future

Edit - but if you must bodge, how about using the sticky pads that number plates are stuck on with? Just peel one side off to stick to the pipe, top and bottom, using this to cushion the pipe so it doesn't rattle.
No idea if that would work, but I would advise to replace the bolts.

75driver · 15th February 2018, 20:38

Ha....thanks😀....I used the term “bodge” quite lightly in this instance.😬

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HarryM1BYT · 15th February 2018, 20:44

Quote:

Originally Posted by 75driver

Can I ask what is the solution, once removed?
Refit a new rubber grommet with new brass collet?
Or is there an alternative "bodge".?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

From vague memory, I did something along the lines of fitting a single strip of metal instead of the 'nuts' below. Either drilled and tapped or drilled and self tappers.

suffolk boy · 16th February 2018, 07:45

i went for brute force and ignorance.armed with a cordless drill a pair of grips and a very sharp drill bit.i simply gripped the nuts so to spk.and then drilled the heads off.then took the duct off shook out the debris .fitted new rubbers with stainless steel flange bolts.still easy to remove several years later

Les Paul · 1st February 2020, 15:38

Yup, just had the same issue. My fix was as per the Suffolk Boy's, just drill 'em out as if they're that corroded there's nowt worth saving anyway. I 'future proofed' it by buying a new set of Well nuts and ran a light smear of contact adhesive around the top surface of each 16mm hole and a similar treatment to the underside rim of the Well nut with a matchstick, wait 5mins and bring the two together. I ran a bolt/washer in them to clamp them in place for an hour while it all set. Finished it up with some spanky stainless button head hex screws.

Was a bit skeptical as to whether the adhesive would properly bond the two different plastics in a working situation but so far it's working well, all the adhesive has to do is hold them until you've got a couple of turns in and it starts compressing/deforming into the hole, from then on it self grips the more you tighten it. It's withstood 3 removal/re-installs so I'm calling that a "fix". :-)

14th February 2018, 22:12	#1
75driver Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon, manual. Rover 75 Tourer, Auto. Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Newry Posts: 1,781 Thanks: 574 Thanked 443 Times in 371 Posts	Removing air inlet concertina captive bolts Any recommendations for removing the 3 captive bolts, that secure the air inlet concertina? Mine are just spinning.😪 Tried wedging a screwdriver in from behind, but with no luck. Do I have to remove the black steel piece that the bolts go through? Any quick fixes once removed? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1) 2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort) 2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone ) 2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?) 2009 E220 (For a change) 2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things) 1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)

14th February 2018, 23:29	#2
madeupname Posted a thing or two Rover 75 Connie Mk2 1.8 (Mo) Join Date: Feb 2017 Location: Sheffield Posts: 1,531 Thanks: 875 Thanked 335 Times in 289 Posts	The black metal thingy that they go through is the slam panel. And I have the same problem. The bolts on either side screw into rubber wellnuts. I bought some off ebay and it looks like the metal female thread for the bolt doesn't start until about a quarter inch down. The one in the middle doesn't have a wellnut under it. If you go to Rimmers and find the bit that shows the turbo air intake pipe, you'll get a better idea of what it looks like under the slam panel. As for getting them off, I'm considering raising them as high as possible then cutting them off with a hacksaw. The wellnuts are M6x15 iirc. __________________ Mo was born Tuesday, 22nd June 2004 @ 08:32:41 This vehicle was the 99,307th 75 to run off the production line, out of 112,381 This vehicle was the 5,377th 75 1.8 Connoisseur to be made out of 6,033 This vehicle was the 783rd 75 in Firefrost Red (code: CEV) to be made out of 2,089 Firefrost Red 75s

15th February 2018, 08:15	#3
Arctic Give to Learn Freelander 2 Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: West Midlands Posts: 18,712 Thanks: 1,155 Thanked 6,407 Times in 3,874 Posts	First you need to pry off the air duct, using a car trim removal tool metal, use one with the widest gap. Press down and pop the air duct off each end of the rubber grommets then the middle one. The best way to remove the air intake is to remove the slam panel as you will have more room to remove the rubber grommets off the brass collets after removing the air intake. Once you can access the brass collets a mole grip is your best friends and an 8mm socket. __________________ Arctic Givology Learn to Give Everything is Achievable ad altiora tendo. Check out our Nano meet dates http://www.midlandsnanomeets.co.uk/ http://www.the75andztclub.co.uk/index.php?thepage=howto " You do the work , we supply the expertise "

15th February 2018, 20:01	#5
75driver Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon, manual. Rover 75 Tourer, Auto. Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Newry Posts: 1,781 Thanks: 574 Thanked 443 Times in 371 Posts	Can I ask what is the solution, once removed? Refit a new rubber grommet with new brass collet? Or is there an alternative "bodge".? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk __________________ 2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1) 2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort) 2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone ) 2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?) 2009 E220 (For a change) 2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things) 1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)

15th February 2018, 20:38	#7
75driver Posted a thing or two Rover 75 saloon, manual. Rover 75 Tourer, Auto. Join Date: Jan 2013 Location: Newry Posts: 1,781 Thanks: 574 Thanked 443 Times in 371 Posts	Ha....thanks😀....I used the term “bodge” quite lightly in this instance.😬 Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk __________________ 2006 75 Contemporary SE diesel manual (#1) 2003 75T Connoisseur SE diesel auto (For Comfort) 2005 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (Marmite duotone ) 2006 75 Connoisseur SE diesel auto (The last one?) 2009 E220 (For a change) 2018 L200 (For Big & Heavy Things) 1976 W114 250 Manual (For Sundays)

15th February 2018, 13:39	#4
steve-45 This is my second home Rover 75 Saloon CDTi Join Date: Oct 2015 Location: Belvedere Posts: 4,076 Thanks: 108 Thanked 1,089 Times in 774 Posts	When Artic changed mine at a nano last summer he made the above procedure look so simple. Thanks again Steve.

16th February 2018, 07:45	#9
suffolk boy This is my second home fiat panda Join Date: Sep 2009 Location: haverhill Posts: 6,720 Thanks: 96 Thanked 586 Times in 526 Posts	i went for brute force and ignorance.armed with a cordless drill a pair of grips and a very sharp drill bit.i simply gripped the nuts so to spk.and then drilled the heads off.then took the duct off shook out the debris .fitted new rubbers with stainless steel flange bolts.still easy to remove several years later __________________ fiat panda 1.2 eco

1st February 2020, 15:38	#10
Les Paul Newbie Rover 75 Tourer Join Date: Nov 2019 Location: Coventry Posts: 13 Thanks: 0 Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post	Yup, just had the same issue. My fix was as per the Suffolk Boy's, just drill 'em out as if they're that corroded there's nowt worth saving anyway. I 'future proofed' it by buying a new set of Well nuts and ran a light smear of contact adhesive around the top surface of each 16mm hole and a similar treatment to the underside rim of the Well nut with a matchstick, wait 5mins and bring the two together. I ran a bolt/washer in them to clamp them in place for an hour while it all set. Finished it up with some spanky stainless button head hex screws. Was a bit skeptical as to whether the adhesive would properly bond the two different plastics in a working situation but so far it's working well, all the adhesive has to do is hold them until you've got a couple of turns in and it starts compressing/deforming into the hole, from then on it self grips the more you tighten it. It's withstood 3 removal/re-installs so I'm calling that a "fix". :-) Last edited by Les Paul; 21st February 2020 at 09:16..